New fuel pump spring install.....wtf

[SharkDiver]

Well I had a few hrs to kill on sat so I thought I would go ahead and do my new fuel sping install before dinner. So I get everything out of my way and goto unscrew the first of 4 cap bolts and the first one comes out ok but it was kinda hard to break loose so I move to the next bolt and it just snaps almost as soon as I put any force on it..WTF... So I go to the next bolt and this time Im really trying to be careful and it comes out just fine..I go to the next bolt and the same thing happens as the second,it just broke right off.WTF again... Now im really sweating because I have to work in the morning and my wife has to have here car for the next day. Its now 6pm on sat and I have to get up for work at 345am.
So now both bolts are broken off with nothing sticking out to try and grab with vise grips or anything. Now Im sitting here looking at my trk trying to figure out how to get this thing going before I work in the morning. I dont have a tap and die set as I never really needed one until now.
So I figure I will try to put it together and see if it leaks and will hold for a few days till I figure out what to do or get a part ordered. So I get it all back together with the new parts and only 2 of the 4 bolts holding the cap on..The bolts that didnt break are the top right and bottom left..Oh and it took me awhile to figure out that I didnt need the black round part that came in the kit. I spend time trying to figure out where the hell this part went and I just determined that it was for another model...
So everything is back together and I prime the system while looking for leaks in between key cycles and no leaks so far..I put a paper towel under the cap to show any signs of dripping. So I go ahead and start it and it fires right up. I go to look for leaks and see none..All good so far. I let it run for about 10 minutes in the driveway before taking a test drive. Anyways to make this story shorter it hasnt leaked yet and Im at work now trying to figure out what to do with this problem.
Should I buy a tap and die set and try to fix this myself or take it to a shop and see what they can do. I know I could just buy a new housing but looks like alot of work to change out and will cost more. Is drilling these bolts out and tapping new threads something that can be done in this situation?

Any thoughts or ideas on what I should do?

[Term3]

Originally Posted by SharkDiver

Well I had a few hrs to kill on sat so I thought I would go ahead and do my new fuel sping install before dinner. So I get everything out of my way and goto unscrew the first of 4 cap bolts and the first one comes out ok but it was kinda hard to break loose so I move to the next bolt and it just snaps almost as soon as I put any force on it..WTF... So I go to the next bolt and this time Im really trying to be careful and it comes out just fine..I go to the next bolt and the same thing happens as the second,it just broke right off.WTF again... Now im really sweating because I have to work in the morning and my wife has to have here car for the next day. Its now 6pm on sat and I have to get up for work at 345am.
So now both bolts are broken off with nothing sticking out to try and grab with vise grips or anything. Now Im sitting here looking at my trk trying to figure out how to get this thing going before I work in the morning. I dont have a tap and die set as I never really needed one until now.
So I figure I will try to put it together and see if it leaks and will hold for a few days till I figure out what to do or get a part ordered. So I get it all back together with the new parts and only 2 of the 4 bolts holding the cap on..The bolts that didnt break are the top right and bottom left..Oh and it took me awhile to figure out that I didnt need the black round part that came in the kit. I spend time trying to figure out where the hell this part went and I just determined that it was for another model...
So everything is back together and I prime the system while looking for leaks in between key cycles and no leaks so far..I put a paper towel under the cap to show any signs of dripping. So I go ahead and start it and it fires right up. I go to look for leaks and see none..All good so far. I let it run for about 10 minutes in the driveway before taking a test drive. Anyways to make this story shorter it hasnt leaked yet and Im at work now trying to figure out what to do with this problem.
Should I buy a tap and die set and try to fix this myself or take it to a shop and see what they can do. I know I could just buy a new housing but looks like alot of work to change out and will cost more. Is drilling these bolts out and tapping new threads something that can be done in this situation?

Any thoughts or ideas on what I should do?

Those bolts are pretty small diameter and being seized in cast aluminum may be very difficult to drill a hole in it to use an easy-out on. If you still want to give it a try once you have the easy-out in place use a heat gun to warm up to housing first as aluminum expands more than steal does and that, with any luck, will be enough to break it free. I'm just thinking that even if you do get the bolts out you may find that some of the aluminum threads have been torn out because they have bonded to the bolt.

[npccpartsman]

Since this is already posted in the FS section I'm posting a link here: http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/per...-serv-kit.html

Determine which one you need by how the fuel supply line comes in. One uses a banjo bolt (very late 04 (may production date) and up) and the fuel line looks like this: http://dan.prxy.org/Truck/6L_bible_h...l/Page_01.html or 03/04 up to about early april 04 production date which uses a flat faced fitting.

[SharkDiver]

Originally Posted by npccpartsman

Since this is already posted in the FS section I'm posting a link here: http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/per...-serv-kit.html

Determine which one you need by how the fuel supply line comes in. One uses a banjo bolt (very late 04 (may production date) and up) and the fuel line looks like this: 2005 Update Page 01 Running Updates or 03/04 up to about early april 04 production date which uses a flat faced fitting.

Thanks,Ill check mine out but i think its after that build date..I will go look..

As far as trying to tap new threads,Do you think there is room to just drill into the broken bolt and then try to tap some new threads with 2 new bolts that are just a hair larger? Just a thought..

[JasonAmericanBulldog]

the part # for the later builds that have the banjo fuel line is 4C3Z-9C166-AA and is called Cover Kit. call Tousley Ford, thats who i got mine from, cant beat the price, tell them you're part of fordparts.com and you will save 42.80 on it, so instead of 170+shipping, it'll be more like 140shipped. it's easy to change, unattach the fuel lines, then remove the fuel line fittings as you will need to reuse them in the new housing, you will need to reuse your regualtor kit as well, and it's only 4 bolts that hold the housing down and can be found at the base of the oil filter section, T40 i think, and when putting new one in, they need TQed to 10ft/lb, if doing it and need help or have questions just ask.

[SharkDiver]

Originally Posted by JasonAmericanBulldog

the part # for the later builds that have the banjo fuel line is 4C3Z-9C166-AA and is called Cover Kit. call Tousley Ford, thats who i got mine from, cant beat the price, tell them you're part of fordparts.com and you will save 42.80 on it, so instead of 170+shipping, it'll be more like 140shipped. it's easy to change, unattach the fuel lines, then remove the fuel line fittings as you will need to reuse them in the new housing, you will need to reuse your regualtor kit as well, and it's only 4 bolts that hold the housing down and can be found at the base of the oil filter section, T40 i think, and when putting new one in, they need TQed to 10ft/lb, if doing it and need help or have questions just ask.

Thanks for that info..I think that is what Ill do..Ill call them tomorrow and order a new part..I work for ford so i wonder if my price will be even less.. Im off work next week so ill be doing this then.Is that all there is to changing this out is unhooking the fuel and oil lines? I havent really had a good look at this thing to see what has to come off to change it out. I guess Ill order some new fuel filters since Ill have it apart.

[JasonAmericanBulldog]

Originally Posted by SharkDiver

Thanks for that info..I think that is what Ill do..Ill call them tomorrow and order a new part..I work for ford so i wonder if my price will be even less.. Im off work next week so ill be doing this then.Is that all there is to changing this out is unhooking the fuel and oil lines? I havent really had a good look at this thing to see what has to come off to change it out. I guess Ill order some new fuel filters since Ill have it apart.

theres no oil lines, just fuel lines. i would reccomend disconnecting batteries, and remove the filters so the oil drains out. you will need to suction the fuel out if you dont want about 8-12oz running everywhere when you pull the lines and threads. with one wrench hold the fitting that screws into the housing and with another loosen the nut thats on the fuel line, if you dont do it this way you run the risk of twisting the fuel lines, and theres a good chance you'll end up needing to replace them if its twisted bad enough. put a zip tie on the fuel line slightly below the nut so it doesnt slide down and leave you searching for them. the kits comes with all the o-rings you'll need, just remember to take the fittings out of the old housing and put them in the new one, and FYI, dont lose the copper washers that are on the banjo bolt going into the fuel bowl, i had to buy new ones

[SharkDiver]

Thanks.I guess it will not be hard to do.. I looked at the tousley web site and they have this part for $112.00 and it says to mention the page for a lower price..? This price seems abit to low. I will call them when they open today to get a real price shipped. Is the housing all I need to order to change this out? I dont need any gaskets or whatever?

[JasonAmericanBulldog]

Comes with the gaskets / o-rings. The rest you'll reuse from old housing

[SharkDiver]

I just got off the phone and ordered the part.. It was $112 + $10 shipping... Thats a great price.. My dealers around here wanted $144-$165 with my Ford Mo employee discount. Now I just hope my trk makes it till next week without leaking.. (Im off work next week)...