Compression Ignition Addict
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Robinson Twp PA (Pittsburgh)
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Pretty good list. Look at my e-sig, that is what I have done to bullet proof. The cool thing about working with cars, trucks, boats, anything with a motor. You can read, get peoples opinions and then use your common sense. Common sense will help make anything last a long time! I have read everything I possibly could about this motor. When I first got it, I thought there was too much boost and that is what was lifting heads so I started with ARP studs. If started over, here is what I would do.
In order of importance:
1. Gauges. Something like an Edge Insight or the other edges will give you all the readings you need. I have an older Edge and it gives everything you need except I cannot read my FICM voltage. The good news, it only take 5 minutes to check your FICM volts.
2. Coolant. If you find that your temps are ok (at operating temp, your oil is no more than 15* over your coolant temp). I have found that really healthy oil coolers are within 0-5* normal driving. I run about 7-9 degrees different in high 80 temps towing about 6,000. Driving around town I am a few degrees apart. Go down a hill my oil and coolant will both sit at 190. So your cooler is ok, go ahead and do a chemical flush. I will save your eyes, there are many write ups about it. You will find Mitch (greensvt) has a great write up in his e-sig! Restore, Restore Plus or Fords VC9 clean your system. Then find yourself a good ELC coolant. Find CAT-1 rated.
3. Coolant filter. Keeps the crap and sand filtered!
4. EGR cooler. Learn what it does and how it works. People will think you unplug and your problem goes away. Not true, it is your egr cooler that fails. If you can, get a delete. If you have emissions, go for a bullet proof kit.
What happens is our gold coolant is a form of ELC. However it is not good on our HIGH temps for 100k miles like stated. It breaks down. Combine that with the sand in the motor from casting. It will start to clog your oil cooler. Limits the amount of coolant. After your oil cooler you have your EGR cooler. Well, you have been blocked so that cooler is REALLY HOT from exhaust gasses. Once the coolant makes its way through, it hits that HOT cooler and ruptures the EGR cooler. The EGR cooler breaks, coolant goes in, steam washes and all the pressure will lift a head and blow a gasket.
So that is a crash course in what happens. Studs are GREAT insurance but if you take care of all above, you limit the issues.
On top of this I would run a synthetic oil and lube your fuel. I run 5/40 Rotella T6 which is not the best oil you can get but I get it cheap and it is better than dino 15/40. I also run opti Lube XPD on the fuel side. It keeps the injectors lubed, it’s a cetane booster and an anti Gel.
The stc fitting is a good idea as well. Hope this helps. Again, this is one guy giving you his opinion. But if you knew me, I read, read, read and go OCD on anything I touch! lol
54 Ford Skyliner Glass Top
60 Country Sedan Wagon
87/93 5.0s 347
Buy/Sell/Trade/Service 40s50s60s cars!
06 F350 Dark Stone XLT FX4
SCTX3 Custom Tunes
ARP Head Studs
EGR Cooler gone
MBRP Stright Pipe
20" Harleys 35" AT2
Last edited by Galaxie; 06-13-2011 at 06:36 PM.