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post #1 of 23 Old 05-24-2011, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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Brakes

I guess I should post this in the other thread area but there is a lot more traffic here. So, I will probably need to do brakes at the end of summer. Who makes a good sloted or drilled rotor for our trucks? Looking for actual feedback from those who have ran after market.


Or is OE better for our trucks?

Colin
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post #2 of 23 Old 05-24-2011, 09:22 PM
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I like ART rotors! I ran them on my 7.3L and they took a TON of abuse (heat and abrasion) and did not warp. If you have an 05 and up, the stock rotors are pretty good though!

Mark
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post #3 of 23 Old 05-25-2011, 06:38 AM
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Look for the ones on ebay that are drilled, slotted, and cryo-treated.
Make sure you buy the right ones. Tell them details about your truck, if its 4x4, ect
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post #4 of 23 Old 05-25-2011, 06:49 AM
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I tried aftermarket (dimple drilled and slotted) and just recently went back to stock rotors. The stockers lasted almost 90k miles and the aftermarket about 30k miles.

Shawn Carlson
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2008 F350, CCLB, 6.4 PSD (Brad-the wife's truck is black)




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4" MBRP Exhaust
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Gogo Diesel Direct Drive Solenoid
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post #5 of 23 Old 05-25-2011, 07:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evil Eye View Post
I tried aftermarket (dimple drilled and slotted) and just recently went back to stock rotors. The stockers lasted almost 90k miles and the aftermarket about 30k miles.
Did you try the cryogenic treated ones? They say they last longer.

SCT, no studs...yet, Dual OEM intake air filter housings, Banks intercooler & intake elbow, Banks exhaust system, Windrunner ported intake manifold, Bullet Proof Diesel remote oil cooler & thermostat, AirDog2 (plus a couple spares), Power steering filter (Amsoil dual-bypass), MagTec deep ATF pan, Electric oil pre-lub pump, Dakota Digital gauges.
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post #6 of 23 Old 05-25-2011, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Term3 View Post
Did you try the cryogenic treated ones? They say they last longer.
Nope, I figured that since the stockers held up for that long with towing my trailer that they should last about the same amount of time.

Shawn Carlson
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2005 F250, CCSB, 6.0 PSD, FX4 (The Sweet Unit is white)
2008 F350, CCLB, 6.4 PSD (Brad-the wife's truck is black)




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Fluidampr
CCV Reroute (Reinstated)
4" MBRP Exhaust
MTW Stage 1 Turbo
Bulletproof 53V FICM
BulletProof EGR Cooler
BulletProof Water Pump
Riff Raff Intercooler Boots
Gogo Diesel Direct Drive Solenoid
BulletProof All-Aluminum Radiator
BulletProof All-Aluminum Intercooler
BulletProof Oil Cooler System w/ Bypass Filter
SCT w/ Custom Tunes (TSD, DJ's, Innovative, Gearhead, QuickTricks)

Exterior Mods:
Bilstein 5100 Shocks
Icon Adjustable Trac Bar
Firestone RideRite Air Bags
BDS Dual Steering Stabilizer
Aluminum Finned Differential Cover
Reese 16k Manual Slider 5th Wheel Hitch
Icon 2.5" Leveling Kit w/ F-350 rear blocks
20" BMF Novakanes wrapped in 33" Nitto Terra Grapplers
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post #7 of 23 Old 05-25-2011, 09:40 AM
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Quality counts..Power slots and Hawks..we sell sell them..no complaints.
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post #8 of 23 Old 05-25-2011, 09:49 AM
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Quality does count. Which is why I'd go with those drilled and slotted rotors that receive a cryo treatment.
The company offering them machines rotors for just about every type of vehicle out there.
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post #9 of 23 Old 05-25-2011, 03:34 PM
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powerslot rotors and motorcraft pads, drilled is not nessicary and they tend to crack inbetween drills easier, and hawk pads dusted to much for my liking.


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post #10 of 23 Old 05-25-2011, 03:49 PM
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Ran the Power slots on my Ram 2500, drilled and slotted. Worked great until the caliber seized up and wiped out the rotor. You can't turn down drilled,dimple,or slotted rotors, it makes the cut interrupted and destroys carbide bits when turning them down.

2004 F350 CC DRW King Ranch
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