Looking for some advise!

[Fishermedic]

I just got an 05 Ex, drove it home on Thursday and it ran perfectly. Quick starts, no stuttering, nothing... She ran 70 MPH for almost 9 hours straight (only 3 10 minute stops for coffee and food) and I couldn't have been happier.

Now the insight is hooked up and telling me that the oil cooler is done. My EOT is at 220 and my ECT is 190. The truck starts and runs great, no smoking and no puking from the degas bottle. It's perfect except for the temps so I'm hoping the cooler is the only problem.

My FICM voltage is also bouncing around between 45 and 48 volts while running. It stays at 48V cranking and drops after starting.

So for the questions and hopefully some advise.

1. Both batteries were changed two years ago so how possible is it that they are responsible for the FICM bouncing?

2. Is there anything I need to check for problems? I don't have any symptoms other than the temps but I may be missing something.

3. Do I rebuild the cooler, get a new cooler or do the BPD delete?
I only want to do this once, which means either BPD delete or get lucky, I'm not lucky. My concern with the BPD is the winter (the cold weather kit is a must). This year we had over a month of -30 to -45 temps, so I'm wondering about the oil temps and how quickly they will get up to operating temp. I don't know enough about oils to be sure that I'll be getting the protection I need when it's this cold.

4. Do I flush the cooling system before or after installing a BPD delete?
My thought is that by doing it after, the restore and restore+ have clear passages through the whole system, no oil cooler in the way, so they would do a better job at cleaning the system out. Yes or No?

I've been reading about this stuff on here for a few months now and I think I've got the confidence to tackle it myself. I just need some guidance before I start.

Thanks for reading...

[NYC F-350]

Originally Posted by Fishermedic

1. Both batteries were changed two years ago so how possible is it that they are responsible for the FICM bouncing?

2. Is there anything I need to check for problems? I don't have any symptoms other than the temps but I may be missing something.

3. Do I rebuild the cooler, get a new cooler or do the BPD delete?
I only want to do this once, which means either BPD delete or get lucky, I'm not lucky. My concern with the BPD is the winter (the cold weather kit is a must). This year we had over a month of -30 to -45 temps, so I'm wondering about the oil temps and how quickly they will get up to operating temp. I don't know enough about oils to be sure that I'll be getting the protection I need when it's this cold.

4. Do I flush the cooling system before or after installing a BPD delete?
My thought is that by doing it after, the restore and restore+ have clear passages through the whole system, no oil cooler in the way, so they would do a better job at cleaning the system out. Yes or No?

Answers:
1: Only way to be absolutely sure is to remove them and have them load tested. Autozone will do it for nothing, even here where they charge for everything.

2: The reason why it is important to get gauges on your truck is for what is happening to you right now. You catch the problems before they become HUGE problems.

3: Rebuilding one is the same as replacing the oil cooler. I know of no other way to "rebuild" one.
The BPD system is great, if you can swing the cost involved and are going to keep the truck long term to realize any benefit (financially).
I have the "cold weather package" and will tell you just running around I never saw oil temps get hotter than 185°F all winter long here. The oil gets up to that point in about 15-20 minutes run time. (Oil temps reached over 100 in just a few minutes) Of course the temps here in NYC only get below zero on a few occasions all winter long. I run full synthetic 5W40. You might want to do some research on your best choice for oil in the extreme cold you get.

4: Before, and flush it out until you get clean clear water back out. As clean as it went in. The flush isn't as critical if your going with the BPD oil cooler system, since there is no cross-contact between the oil and coolant after install. The one and only remaining concern is the EGR cooler. If your intent is to keep and EGR system in your truck and functioning, I suggest adding the bulletproof egr cooler to your shopping list. That and the oil cooler system will remove the coolant concerns completely, since the passages for coolant through the BPD EGR cooler are MUCH larger than the stock unit.

[Fishermedic]

The BPD EGR cooler IS on the list, I just forgot to mention it. I do want to keep the EGR on the truck so replacing it while I'm in there is a no brainer even for me!

Thanks for the quick reply...

Anyone else have any thoughts?

[colo_dually]

Howdy, glad to hear your initially happy with your '05 Ex.

That cooler is definately done, since you're not pucking/smoking you should be alright. I doubt the EGR cooler has failed just yet. Its good to have that Insight and know where that stands. You FICM voltage sounds perfect, there's no concern untill it starts to drop below 40v cranking.

1. Non-issue, your FICM is operating within normal tolerances.

2. Looks like you need to rebuild your oil cooler, and while your in there solve your EGR cooler. You should take care of both anytime you have the motor down that far doing one. You have two options, replace it with the version from BPD, or do an EGR deletion.

3. For the expense of the BPD remote oil cooler, you can rebuild the stocker several times. The rebuild kits are now available from Ford and it basically replaces the internals of the oil cooler.

4. If you do the remote oil cooler, then it really wouldn't matter, I would do the flush before you rebuild/replace the oil cooler. If you're rebuilding the stock one, you want to flush before and avoid flushing that silicate build up through the fresh internals of a rebuilt cooler.

Keep us posted on how it goes, it sounds like you have a good handle on the 6.0L problems.

[PGreenSVT]

The BPD oil cooler is an awesome solution that makes sense if you are in for the long haul. It takes care of the problem permanently. If you flush the system and clean it well with Restore and Restore Plus then replace the oil cooler and switch to ELC coolant you should be ok with the oem oil cooler. Still replace the egr cooler with the BPD cooler.

[Fishermedic]

Thanks for the comments guys!

So the rebuilt oil cooler brings more questions to mind.
I know that coolant maintenance is key to avoiding problems but will this prevent a rebuilt oil cooler from clogging again?
I've seen a lot of threads on here of people who have replaced the cooler and had the next one fail within a short time. I'm kind of leaning to the oil cooler delete but if a rebuild will last 7 years or so this may be the way to go. I don't mind having to dive into the motor now but don't want to do it again for a long time.

[Fishermedic]

Anyone else have any recommendations or comments?

[NYC F-350]

Originally Posted by Fishermedic

Thanks for the comments guys!

So the rebuilt oil cooler brings more questions to mind.
I know that coolant maintenance is key to avoiding problems but will this prevent a rebuilt oil cooler from clogging again?

There no guarantee. You might, you might not. There are way too many variables involved to even take a shot in the dark.

Originally Posted by Fishermedic

I've seen a lot of threads on here of people who have replaced the cooler and had the next one fail within a short time.

That does occur. Again, there are variables. Previous maintenance on the cooling system seems to be a big factor. If the system had been neglected for years, or tap water was introduced, those will certainly contribute.

Originally Posted by Fishermedic

I'm kind of leaning to the oil cooler delete but if a rebuild will last 7 years or so this may be the way to go. I don't mind having to dive into the motor now but don't want to do it again for a long time.

And you MIGHT not have to for quite some time if you choose to replace the stock oil cooler with another stock one. It's a gamble.

[PGreenSVT]

No such thing as a guarantee with the oil cooler unless you go with the BPD and remove the oem oil cooler. BUT if you clean the cooling system real well and stay on top of your maintenance an oem replacement should last you. If you do your own work the replacement oil cooler is only about $200. I strongly recommend a CAT EC-1 rated ELC coolant instead of the Ford Gold G-05 but if you decide to keep the G-05 plan of flushing and changing at a minimum every 2 years.

[Fishermedic]

NYC and PGreen, thanks for the posts, I've read a lot of your posts on the forum and found a lot of great info.

So here's where I'm at now for a work list;

1. The oil cooler - I'm 80% sure it will be BPD's delete and cold weather package.
2. The EGR cooler - BPD's, I want to keep it on the truck cause you never know, I may need to sell it or emissions check it in the future.
3. STC fitting - I'm in there so if it's not done it will be.
4. Fuel pressure spring - again since I'm in there.
5. Turbo drain tube - Another one of those 'If you're there you might as well' updates.
6. Serpentine belt - It's squealing sometimes so I'll check all the pulleys and put a new belt on.
7. Clean the EGR valve, turbo and intake manifold.
8. Coolant and Thermostat - Flushed and changed to ELC. There is a lot of debate over doing this or not doing this. From what I can figure out there is nothing in the CAT EC-1 rated coolant that will harm the motor so it makes sense to do it. Question, how often are guys changing and flushing the ELC? I know the Ford Gold should be done every couple of years but haven't seen much on the ELC.
9. Oil - I'll be switching to the Rotella synthetic oil.

So while I'm working and spending money what else should I be looking at? Dummy plugs, stand pipes, IPR, and why should I be looking at them? I'm still trying to research this stuff and put a parts list together. If only I was retired.

I've decided I'm not going to do the 6.4 banjo's, I don't think it's necessary based on what I've read. Maybe for those who are going to tune and run the truck hard but I'm not going to tune it and won't be at WOT very often and not for more than a few seconds, I don't think the 6.0 bolts will starve the injectors. I've also read somewhere about the check valves in them and why they are there, I'm still trying to find that again! Someone correct me if I'm wrong or have something mixed up! (It happens often) and I've read and learned so much in the last 3 months it's a wonder my head hasn't exploded!