6.0 coolant flush video - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 05-03-2011, 08:43 PM
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6.0 coolant flush video

I found this video on line does anybody think that the ford gold is still bad news or is a cat elc coolant better. Also if i did a full flush with vc-9 would it be safe to use cat EC-1 ELC or should i stick to ford gold premium keep in mind im running a BPD fully bullet proof kit with an EGR delete and a diesel site coolant filtration kit

Also is this procedure a good one to work off of

video and the procedure are from two different sites

copy the URL. I don't know why its not lit up you know what I mean

mms://multimedia.ford.com/seopts/WSM/Diesel_Coolant_Health_Final_Final.wmv


PLEASE NOTE THE MIN LEVEL ON THE DEGAS BOTTLE IS NOW THE NEW FULL LEVEL.

1) Buy Four (4) gallons of Ford Premium Gold Coolant (or Zerex G05), Two (2) bottles of VC-9 and one (1) Thermostat O-ring (if removing T-stat) at dealer.

2) Buy 15-18 gallons of DISTILLER WATER at local grocery store.

3) Open Radiator Stop**** and/or Drop lower radiator hose until radiator is empty.

4) Close stop**** and/or reconnect hose.

5) Add 2 bottles of VC-9 to degas bottle (The VC-9 is in the Ford procedure for flushing prior to water flush and new coolant). Add distilled water until the degas bottle is at MIN. Go for a 20 to 30 mile drive (Some say you need to drive at temp for 1 hour to fully clean system). Drain system, then proceed either with or without Thermostat.

Thermostat Removal Option:
A) Pull air cleaner assembly.
B) Drain coolant (See step 3 above).
C) Remove upper radiator hose.
D) Remove 2 nuts on t-stat housing.
E) Lift and move press sensor bracket to the side. Not a lot of play in it but it will move.
F) Remove 2 more nuts on t-stat housing.
G) Remove housing. It will lift right off of the studs.
H) Reverse procedure to re-install. Use a new O ring (5 bucks at dealer). I used Vaseline to hold the O ring in place. Tighten nuts to 23Nm (17lb/ft).


6) Add distilled water to degas bottle until it reads MIN.

7) Drive vehicle with heater on HIGH (HOT) until temp gauge goes to normal and thermostat opens (Excursion owners Do Not Forget Rear Heater). If thermostat is removed just idle for 5 minutes gently varying idle rpm’s between 750 and 1500 or turn High Idle Mod on.

8) Repeat steps #3,#4, #6 and #7 no less than 4 or 5 times until drain water is clear.

9) You now have 100% distilled water in your system.

10) Drop lower hose 1 last time, drain and reconnect. Reinstall Thermostat if removed earlier.

11) Look in manual to verify your system capacity (27.5 quarts) and add 3 gallons of FULL STRENGTH Ford Premium Gold (or Zerex G05) coolant into your degas bottle.

12) Start motor and add distilled water to bring system level to not exceed the MIN Mark on degas bottle. PLEASE NOTE THE MIN LEVEL ON THE DEGAS BOTTLE IS NOW THE NEW FULL LEVEL.

13) Drive truck around to open thermostat and let cool once or twice to purge any air. May need to add more distilled water (don't add more coolant)... but when done you have flushed your entire system and have a perfect 50/50% concentration of coolant and distilled water.

Last edited by neal_zack; 05-04-2011 at 06:39 AM.
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Old 05-03-2011, 09:07 PM
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I just finished doing that same thing today, but i was removing the block drain plug, and used baldwins flushing agent. Seemed to work well, took 6 or 7 times to get all the flushing agent out. And my thermostat housing has bolts instead of studs.
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Old 05-03-2011, 11:25 PM
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Old 05-04-2011, 06:09 AM
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im sorry i posted the title of this thread as a 6.0 PSD flush video but the truck in the video is a 6.4 oh well still decent tech
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Old 05-04-2011, 06:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6.0psd916 View Post
I just finished doing that same thing today, but i was removing the block drain plug, and used baldwins flushing agent. Seemed to work well, took 6 or 7 times to get all the flushing agent out. And my thermostat housing has bolts instead of studs.
Im not familiar with baldwins flushing agent where do you get that stuff? does it remove rust and silicates like VC-9 actually I'm not totally sure the VC-9 removed the silicates I think it just does rust and conditions the internal surfaces of the coolant system for new coolant

what does everybody think of the cummins restore it gets rid if the silicates the ford gold leave behind i wonder if it would hurt anything if i did both vc-9 and the restore http://www.fleetguard.com/html/en/pr..._cleaners.html
I dug into it a little the restore has two products restore and restore plus. The plus is a rust inhibitor and the restore removes the silicates i might just buy this flush to do on my PSD

Last edited by neal_zack; 05-04-2011 at 06:37 AM.
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Old 05-07-2011, 10:21 PM
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This is a post by PGreenSVT


Flushing and cleaning the 6.0

Restore is for cleaning out any silicate goo. VC-9 is for cleaning out iron and scale. Restore Plus is the same as VC-9 and cheaper.

To flush drain the coolant by removing the lower radiator hose from the radiator, and removing the drain plug from the driver side of the block. There is a drain plug on the passenger side also but you have to remove the starter to get to it. I don't bother with that one. You can skip the block drains if you want except for the final drain before adding fresh coolant. You will just have to flush a few more times to get the block clear.

I also highly recommend you pull the thermostat out on your first drain and put the housing back without the thermostat. It only takes about 10 minutes and will save you 2.5 hrs or so in doing this whole procedure.

Ok now put the lower hose back on and the drain plug back in the block if you removed it. This is the procedure you will use each time to drain the system, except you will not touch the thermostat again until you're finished the whole procedure. Make sure that you set your heater to high while doing this to flush out the heater core as well.

Fill the cooling system with tap water, start the truck and let the water circulate for 5 minutes. (if you did not remove the thermostat you must run the truck until the thermostat opens + 5 minutes to circulate. This takes 15 to 20 minutes each cycle and is why you should just remove the thermostat) Stop the engine. Drain the system and repeat the flush.

Now add at least 1/2 gallon of Restore and fill with tap water. Drive truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes. Drain and flush 3 or 4 times.

Add 2qts VC-9 or 1/2gal of Restore Plus, top with tap water, and drive the truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes. Now drain and flush until flush water comes out clear and clean. When you get clean flush water, flush 3 more times using distilled water if you are draining the block or 5 times if not. This is to replace any tap water in the cooling system with distilled water and very important.

After your final distilled water drain it is time to put the thermostat back in. I recommend you install a new thermostat at this point. They are only $20 or so and it is good maintenance procedure to do so. Fill with 3.5 or 4 gals of ELC concentrated coolant and top off with distilled water. Drive the truck or let run for a while topping off with distilled water. Check the truck over the next few days and top up as required while any air left in the system works its way out.

Keep some 50/50 ELC on hand to use to top off the cooling system from here out and you are good to go.

new t/stat from Ford it should all come together (housing-t/stat-o-ring) in a box. The part number is RT-1169

Here is the Restore Product from Cummins dealer
http://www.fleetguard.com/pdfs/produ...LI33024-GB.pdf
2 stroker
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Old 05-08-2011, 03:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2 stroker View Post
This is a post by PGreenSVT


Flushing and cleaning the 6.0

Restore is for cleaning out any silicate goo. VC-9 is for cleaning out iron and scale. Restore Plus is the same as VC-9 and cheaper.

To flush drain the coolant by removing the lower radiator hose from the radiator, and removing the drain plug from the driver side of the block. There is a drain plug on the passenger side also but you have to remove the starter to get to it. I don't bother with that one. You can skip the block drains if you want except for the final drain before adding fresh coolant. You will just have to flush a few more times to get the block clear.

I also highly recommend you pull the thermostat out on your first drain and put the housing back without the thermostat. It only takes about 10 minutes and will save you 2.5 hrs or so in doing this whole procedure.

Ok now put the lower hose back on and the drain plug back in the block if you removed it. This is the procedure you will use each time to drain the system, except you will not touch the thermostat again until you're finished the whole procedure. Make sure that you set your heater to high while doing this to flush out the heater core as well.

Fill the cooling system with tap water, start the truck and let the water circulate for 5 minutes. (if you did not remove the thermostat you must run the truck until the thermostat opens + 5 minutes to circulate. This takes 15 to 20 minutes each cycle and is why you should just remove the thermostat) Stop the engine. Drain the system and repeat the flush.

Now add at least 1/2 gallon of Restore and fill with tap water. Drive truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes. Drain and flush 3 or 4 times.

Add 2qts VC-9 or 1/2gal of Restore Plus, top with tap water, and drive the truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes. Now drain and flush until flush water comes out clear and clean. When you get clean flush water, flush 3 more times using distilled water if you are draining the block or 5 times if not. This is to replace any tap water in the cooling system with distilled water and very important.

After your final distilled water drain it is time to put the thermostat back in. I recommend you install a new thermostat at this point. They are only $20 or so and it is good maintenance procedure to do so. Fill with 3.5 or 4 gals of ELC concentrated coolant and top off with distilled water. Drive the truck or let run for a while topping off with distilled water. Check the truck over the next few days and top up as required while any air left in the system works its way out.

Keep some 50/50 ELC on hand to use to top off the cooling system from here out and you are good to go.

new t/stat from Ford it should all come together (housing-t/stat-o-ring) in a box. The part number is RT-1169

Here is the Restore Product from Cummins dealer
http://www.fleetguard.com/pdfs/produ...LI33024-GB.pdf
2 stroker
I think you forgot to mention if you are not replacing oil cooler after flush you should plan on it. The debris is going to go somewhere.
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Old 05-08-2011, 06:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike 6.0 View Post
I think you forgot to mention if you are not replacing oil cooler after flush you should plan on it. The debris is going to go somewhere.
Should be good. We have done a few now with no issues. I just did my personal truck a few weeks ago. I plan on changing and cutting open my first coolant filter at 1000 miles.
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Old 05-08-2011, 06:17 AM
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Here is my question - and it is related to the thread

My truck was flushed at PowerStroke Magic in Houston 3,000 miles ago when I got it. They put FMC Gold back in it. Everything is good and temps are where they should be.

If I wanted to get the Gold out, do I need to do a complete flush with cleaners or can I just drain the gold out and put a good ELC in?

Shawn
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Old 05-08-2011, 06:29 AM
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Do it with Restore and Restore Plus, then the ELC.
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