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Old 04-26-2011, 02:11 PM
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Pulling motor for studs? other suggestions

Ok so i said I was going to wait till I blew something to do studs, but im getting impatient. I know typically you do the cab off to do studs, but im just wondering how much extra time it would take to pull the motor out and do it on a stand. Reason I ask is id like to completely go through my truck to get all the salt off and basically not have to worry about it for atleast ten years, pull the motor basically make it a new truck, and I dont have a lift, but i do have access to pretty much any snap on tool at my uncles shop

install the MKM kit (how is the sinister EGR delete BTW is it worth reselling and getting a FCDP one?) get the heads checked, upgraded blue spring with 6.4 banjos, MC glow plugs, new T stat, new belt, ELC, coolant filter, new cap, new ICP and IPR sensor, any thing else thats easier to do while the motor is out? after all that Im going to wash the motor/trans/tcase down and paint them cat yellow

plans are to all so wire wheel, needle scale, and sandblast the frame, and underside of the cab and paint with POR 15, pull the bed off, go to the 2" F250 rear blocks (where to get them?) with new shocks all around (which ones)

basically, ive decided that truck payments are the absolute evil, and I want this thing paid off and to actually start making me money now, Im not looking to build a drag vehicle, my next stang will be for, i want a truck that I can drive another 200k (85k now) any other additions need to be made?
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Old 04-26-2011, 02:16 PM
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your on the right track and when my motor was pulled out of my truck they pulled the cab then pulled the whole motor out so not sure if that was just because it was easier or the only way to do it
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Old 04-26-2011, 02:16 PM
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Sounds like a great plan. Probably a little extra work, different work the pull vs cab but it will work. You can also check your rear main, etc. You'll have to drain the A/C systems of course, but it could be done.
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Old 04-26-2011, 02:32 PM
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Pretty sure you have to have a special engine stand to pull it, but not 100% sure. The one we had at Ford bolted directly to the front of the block.
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Old 04-26-2011, 04:12 PM
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the guy i would have do it has done 6.0s before, basically he would come, use our shop to pull the motor, lift it out with the mini ex, have him do the work on it, bring it back, give me a day to do paint and reinstall so id imagine he has the stand but i have no idea, ive never delt with 6.0s, only 7.3s (which have needed just as much mone and work)

should i replace the rear main? AC is probably close to needing a charge any ways being 5 years old
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Old 04-26-2011, 05:12 PM
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if you don't have the right stand then use the chassis as your engine stand. pull the cab
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Old 04-26-2011, 07:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sinner6.0L View Post
if you don't have the right stand then use the chassis as your engine stand. pull the cab
I agree .
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Old 04-27-2011, 05:13 PM
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why do you need a special stand? the reasn I dont want to pull the cab is i live in the salt belt of MA and I want to sandblast/strip and repaint it all while its apart to.

also sinister or FCPD EGR delete? what kind of shocks? and where can i get F250 blocks?
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Old 04-27-2011, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangman02232 View Post
why do you need a special stand? the reasn I dont want to pull the cab is i live in the salt belt of MA and I want to sandblast/strip and repaint it all while its apart to.

also sinister or FCPD EGR delete? what kind of shocks? and where can i get F250 blocks?
You don't have room to use a normal engine hoist to pick it up off the frame. The "special" stand/hoist bolts to the front of the block to lift it up and pull it out.
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Old 04-27-2011, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhanna6powerstroke View Post
The "special" stand/hoist bolts to the front of the block to lift it up and pull it out.
Let me clarify. The special engine stand needed, is one that supports the engine from the left and right sides of the engine block, not the usual engine stands that support the weight of it from the bell housing. Here is a link that better illustrates what I'm referring to:

http://www.norcoind.com/norco/downlo...201_Manual.pdf
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