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Cooling flush mishap
Holy crap i hope i didnt ruin my truck. My ect eot were at 210-240 for 15 minutes during the restore. When i got back home i see the lower rad hose had popped out. Did i screw the oil cooler? ****!
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Fill it back up, take it for a drive, and monitor your temps closely. If you start to see your temp delta exceeding 10* and climbing, I'd shut er down.
That's sucks bro! Good luck! |
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Ohh man that sucks... I hope your truck is ok.
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Didn't your fan kick on at all when your oil temps got above 220 ?!
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most just replace the oil cooler anyway afterwards just as a precaution because the gunk still clogs it when being flushed, and I'd imagine its clogs a lot faster when it's broken loose by restore and vc9/restore+. you dont need to spend the 500 for the entire unit, just the internal thats around 300 and comes with everything, it's what the Techs use at dealers.... but you can find on here and eBay for less.
Last edited by JasonAmericanBulldog; 04-22-2011 at 01:57 PM. Reason: spelling |
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Well it turns out i didnt have the clamp on tight enough this time i used a rachet. I later on did a 20min open hose flush followed by a 10min 30 gal of distilled water flush. Then i did 2 more 60min drives of distelled water now im waitin for the truck to cool down to poor the elc. Truck ran 4-6* cooler than with gold junk.
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The least of your worries is your oil cooler if you ran your engine out of coolant. The oil cooler would not be harmed from the temps. Cracked cylinder block or heads or warped components would be my concern. Extreme dry temps like that can damage seals and gaskets. And like previously stated the cooler should be replaced anyways because typically as result of the products you used to flushed performing their job will plug your cooler.
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What is the "internals" you are referring to? I see complete oil coolers on ebay for $250 |
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