ARP studs as preventive maintenance - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 16 Old 04-19-2011, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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ARP studs as preventive maintenance

Is there any reason that a guy couldn’t replace the OEM head bolts with ARP studs one at at time and leave the factory head gasket in place if it were in good condition? My only concern is that some how the seal on the original head gasket would be upset by changing the clamping forces. I am hoping that if I removed the bolts one at a time and replaced them with studs it would work out. Does this have any value as a preventive maintenance idea. My head gaskets are in great condition, but I would like the security of studs
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post #2 of 16 Old 04-19-2011, 07:15 PM
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With all the work to be able to take out the back bolts(remove heads or lift cab). Might as well go the additional step to guaruntee you wont have any issues in the near future.
Take off the heads and make sure there are no cracks near the exhaust valve seats.

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Better to spend the little money now, than have to redo the job at a bigger cost.
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post #3 of 16 Old 04-19-2011, 07:27 PM
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It works. there is a greater risk that you will blow head gaskets still but If done right it will hold alot more than stock.

They only way I would recommend this is if you are doing your own work and dont mind redoing it if they blow.
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post #4 of 16 Old 04-19-2011, 08:21 PM
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Whats the cost of just the bolts replace if you did it at a shop?

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post #5 of 16 Old 04-19-2011, 08:30 PM
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I wouldn't think many shops would do it. If a shop was going to do it I would just take the heads off. There are to many variables that you are not in control of at a shop.
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post #6 of 16 Old 04-19-2011, 10:13 PM
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Like stated above, it can be done. You just replace them one at a time, fully torquing each one and replacing them in the sequence you would torque down new bolts.

However, those driver side rear two or 3 make it so either the head has to come off or the cab has to come off. There is no way in hell you will get the new stud in there with the head still on. Guys have done heads with the cab on by removing the head with those 3 old bolts still in the head, then installing the head with the studs already in the head rubber banded on. With the head is sitting on the block, with the cab on, I do not think its possible to get the last 2 or 3 studs in unless you seriously start pounding the cab with a hammer and make room.


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post #7 of 16 Old 04-20-2011, 10:23 AM
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this is just a thought as I am no mechanic but this very same idea was put into my head. it may very well be possible to replace them one at a time and for the ones in the back that people frett over, could you undo the motor mount on the driverside and drop the engine down enough to get the room you need? just a thought more info would be great as I too would like to do this!
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post #8 of 16 Old 04-20-2011, 10:37 AM
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I did them all in cab with out unbolting the motor.
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post #9 of 16 Old 04-20-2011, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HAM_RADIO_MAN View Post
Is there any reason that a guy couldn’t replace the OEM head bolts with ARP studs one at at time and leave the factory head gasket in place if it were in good condition? My only concern is that some how the seal on the original head gasket would be upset by changing the clamping forces. I am hoping that if I removed the bolts one at a time and replaced them with studs it would work out. Does this have any value as a preventive maintenance idea. My head gaskets are in great condition, but I would like the security of studs
If you want security get an edge Insight and monitor your Oil Temp and Coolant Temp. If the oil gets more than 15* hotter than the coolant when at full operating temp and cruising empty at 65-70 mph then your oil cooler is clogged and needs to be replaced. That is where things start going bad that result in blown head gaskets.

Flush the cooling system with Restore and Restore Plus, delete the egr system or replace the egr cooler with a Bulletproof Diesel cooler, put a fresh oil cooler in it, then refill it with a CAT EC-1 rated ELC coolant and distilled water. The odds are you will never have to touch your heads.

Read the first link in my signature.
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post #10 of 16 Old 04-20-2011, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PGreenSVT View Post
If you want security get an edge Insight and monitor your Oil Temp and Coolant Temp. If the oil gets more than 15* hotter than the coolant when at full operating temp and cruising empty at 65-70 mph then your oil cooler is clogged and needs to be replaced. That is where things start going bad that result in blown head gaskets.

Flush the cooling system with Restore and Restore Plus, delete the egr system or replace the egr cooler with a Bulletproof Diesel cooler, put a fresh oil cooler in it, then refill it with a CAT EC-1 rated ELC coolant and distilled water. The odds are you will never have to touch your heads.

Read the first link in my signature.
did this a little while back and couldn't have been happier with it, you've been SUCH a help

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