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Old 04-18-2011, 06:02 PM
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Fuel Filter Change and coolant change

so, i'm working my way through changin oil, filters, coolant since i got my 07 PSD. i just did the fuel filters over the weekend and when i took them out they were totally black and really nasty looking.

I used to get a weird groan around 40 to 45 mph in high gear and under a load and now thats gone which is nice but makes me wonder what if anything could have been harmed by the filters being so old.

Anything i should be looking at?

this weekend i'm moving to the coolant. I got CAT ELC and defuser coolant filter.

thanks,
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Old 04-18-2011, 11:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gui272 View Post
so, i'm working my way through changin oil, filters, coolant since i got my 07 PSD. i just did the fuel filters over the weekend and when i took them out they were totally black and really nasty looking.

I used to get a weird groan around 40 to 45 mph in high gear and under a load and now thats gone which is nice but makes me wonder what if anything could have been harmed by the filters being so old.

Anything i should be looking at?

this weekend i'm moving to the coolant. I got CAT ELC and defuser coolant filter.

thanks,
When it comes to the fuel filters being screwed up you can kill your injectors because under 45lbs at WOT will do it- need a fuel pressure gauge, and use only Ford or Racor filters (oil, fuel, trans, air) and use a Syn oil something like Rotella T6 5w40 your injectors will love it. Drain the fuel filter housing once a month about 2oz then change every 15k and 10k if you pull a 5er or TT and run cetane boost in the fuel to keep the egr valve and turbo clean and once a week drive it like you stole it. Now when it comes to the coolant flush here is a post by PGreenSVT hope this helps.


Flushing and cleaning the 6.0

Restore is for cleaning out any silicate goo. VC-9 is for cleaning out iron and scale. Restore Plus is the same as VC-9 and cheaper.

To flush drain the coolant by removing the lower radiator hose from the radiator, and removing the drain plug from the driver side of the block. There is a drain plug on the passenger side also but you have to remove the starter to get to it. I don't bother with that one. You can skip the block drains if you want except for the final drain before adding fresh coolant. You will just have to flush a few more times to get the block clear.

I also highly recommend you pull the thermostat out on your first drain and put the housing back without the thermostat. It only takes about 10 minutes and will save you 2.5 hrs or so in doing this whole procedure.

Ok now put the lower hose back on and the drain plug back in the block if you removed it. This is the procedure you will use each time to drain the system, except you will not touch the thermostat again until you're finished the whole procedure. Make sure that you set your heater to high while doing this to flush out the heater core as well.

Fill the cooling system with tap water, start the truck and let the water circulate for 5 minutes. (if you did not remove the thermostat you must run the truck until the thermostat opens + 5 minutes to circulate. This takes 15 to 20 minutes each cycle and is why you should just remove the thermostat) Stop the engine. Drain the system and repeat the flush.

Now add at least 1/2 gallon of Restore and fill with tap water. Drive truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes. Drain and flush 3 or 4 times.

Add 2qts VC-9 or 1/2gal of Restore Plus, top with tap water, and drive the truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes. Now drain and flush until flush water comes out clear and clean. When you get clean flush water, flush 3 more times using distilled water if you are draining the block or 5 times if not. This is to replace any tap water in the cooling system with distilled water and very important.

After your final distilled water drain it is time to put the thermostat back in. I recommend you install a new thermostat at this point. They are only $20 or so and it is good maintenance procedure to do so. Fill with 3.5 or 4 gals of ELC concentrated coolant and top off with distilled water. Drive the truck or let run for a while topping off with distilled water. Check the truck over the next few days and top up as required while any air left in the system works its way out.

Keep some 50/50 ELC on hand to use to top off the cooling system from here out and you are good to go.

new t/stat from Ford it should all come together (housing-t/stat-o-ring) in a box. The part number is RT-1169

Here is the Restore Product from Cummins dealer
http://www.fleetguard.com/pdfs/produ...LI33024-GB.pdf
2 stroker
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