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Old 04-11-2011, 08:50 AM
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turbo oil seal

what is the root cause for these things failing?

i rebuilt my turbo two (thats 2) months ago because i was blue smoking out the county due to a failed oil seal. now its right back to smoking! so what causes these things to fail?

are there any upgraded parts for these or should i just throw it in the scrap heap and order a powermax?
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Old 04-11-2011, 09:43 AM
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My theory is shutting it down when the EGT's are too high, cooking the oil and creating a sludge which gums everything up.
If I had the cash, I would go the powermax route.
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Old 04-11-2011, 09:52 AM
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well i dont have a pyro gauge to know how hot it is when i shut it down, but i dont just pull in and shut it off. i let it sit there for a minute before i shut id down.

if the oil seal is this weak i hope the powermax doesnt use one.

Last edited by diablos30; 04-11-2011 at 09:56 AM.
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Old 04-11-2011, 01:52 PM
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any other ideas?
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Old 04-11-2011, 11:30 PM
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Ive have been looking around about this one too. Ive read several things so far: hot shutdown; overtemp the turbo at any time (sustained high boost over 25psi, or high EGTs); overspeed the turbo at any time; time and number of heat cycles weaken the ‘spring’ in the seal. On a related note, low voltage on the FICM can produce symptoms similar to turbo oil seal failure.

For me, its typically about 90 seconds to cool my EGTs under 350deg when driving in at 600deg – so no coking/varnishing my turbo because of that. Ive got that going for me, which is nice. The overtemp situation may have had some effect on me during my last tow over the hills. I was holding some high boost for a while…but EGT below 1000deg. Now I puff a little for about 10 minutes in the morning. Not sure how to overspeed this thing and don’t know if ‘average’ folks like us can do it without nitrous or other stacked power adder. As for the heat cycling, time stops for no man.

The FICM angle is provocative (and doubly expensive). I read a little about it just last night but don’t understand it well enough to explain just yet – the electro-mechanics of it anyway. The short of it is, if you haven’t heard, many of us 6.0 operators are vulnerable to a random bad/cold soldering job in the FICM that causes a decrease in the necessary 48 system volts (and that Swamps is the place to go get it fixed). I get the impression that a malfunctioning FICM makes black smoke (and possibly white smoke) and the turbo seal failure makes blue smoke. All conditions mentioned tend to improve when the truck gets to operating temp.

diablos30, please post your turbo rebuild parts supplier information and parts numbers if you did the work yourself. NYC F-350, I know you have, but I don’t know if you did the metal oil seal on the turboshaft. Would you mind posting yours too if it wasn’t the 4C4Z-9V424-AA - Turbo cleaning kit? FWIW, I think Im going to get the ScanGauge II with Xgauge capability and not the Insight CTS since it can monitor EOT/ECT/FICMv/ICP/VGT/IPR and other critical things when programmed. The programming code is listed on the Org.

Last edited by Lumberg; 04-12-2011 at 10:42 AM. Reason: edited for FICM cause effect
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Old 04-12-2011, 03:53 AM
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My turbo cleaning was a last minute decision and I used what I had handy in the garage. I had a few brass wire wheels that I used on a dremel to clean up on the vanes and used a bench grinder with a wire wheel on the unison ring. Was it done "by the book"? Probably not, but there really wasn't that much crap in there, it was fairly clean and I followed the written procedure. It was opened more or less out of curiosity of how it worked and how it all fit together than any actual problem I was having and I used the opportunity to give everything a light coat of anti-sieze.
When you split the turbo to clean it, you are basically just removing the two outer casings to clean the area where the wheels reside. Those outer casings more or less direct the airflow around the wheel and you do not take the wheels off the shaft to get to where the bearings are.

As far as a FICM having something to do with a turbo failure, I have a real hard time believing that one. Can't understand how an electrical control component of the fuel injection system could cause a turbo failure. I'm all for learning about it though, if you don't mind sharing where you heard that one.
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Old 04-12-2011, 04:13 AM
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i used a garrett rebuild kit that i got off ebay, i dont have the part number handy but i'll see if i can dig it up tonight.

basically the same thing that is sold here G-Pop Shop Garrett Rebuild Kit for Ford 6.0L Powerstroke
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Old 04-12-2011, 07:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diablos30 View Post
i used a garrett rebuild kit that i got off ebay, i dont have the part number handy but i'll see if i can dig it up tonight.

basically the same thing that is sold here G-Pop Shop Garrett Rebuild Kit for Ford 6.0L Powerstroke
I have "heard" from others that it isn't a reliable long-term solution. That's not to say that some folks haven't had good luck with it, but that is the main reason that I went with the PowerMax.
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Old 04-12-2011, 07:26 AM
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so put this in the same category as egr valve cleaning and ipr screen.

how likely is a runaway if im just leaking on the exhaust side?

edit: what type of oil seal does the powermax use? i hope not the crap design as the stocker. i've searched high and low and cant find an answer to that one.

Last edited by diablos30; 04-12-2011 at 07:37 AM.
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Old 04-12-2011, 07:32 AM
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Depends on how bad the leak is. If it is just a minor leak, it probably won't ever make it to the intake side of things. If it is major, I would consider shutting it down until you can do another rebuild or possibly get a used one.
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