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post #1 of 10 Old 04-06-2011, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
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FICM Knowledge

For those of you who really know about our 6.0 FICM....

1. What are the traits of a failing FICM?
2. Do they slowly fail?
OR
3. Do they just crap the bed?

I am trying to explain this to someone and I dont think I have the knowlege to do so.

Thanks!

Colin
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post #2 of 10 Old 04-06-2011, 04:39 PM
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They usually fail over time. The classic symptoms are rough cold starts with the motor running rough and having no power till it warms up and then seems to run fine. If it's cold out it will smoke on cold starts until it warms up too. As it gets worse the truck will not run as smoothly and lack the power it should have.

If continued operation occurs with this low voltage condition it has been known to take out the injectors too.

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post #3 of 10 Old 04-06-2011, 04:42 PM
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From my experience and "digging" The cause of failur in my Personal FICM was due to batteries that were junk, and my insistance on not buying new ones. With low voltage being supplied to the FICM, the DC-DC convertors/transformers in the FICM have a really really hard time putting out 48V, especially on a cold start. However when everything got warmed up and the alternator was charging, the DC-DC board could output the specified voltage.

Amperage is another issue. Predominantly when EOT is cold. As it takes only 5amps to make the injectors do what they need to when the engine is at Operating temp. However, at 0* EOT, you could *Potentially* see 35-40 Amps to the injectors. Thus creating wear and tear on the electronics. And as the DC-DC board degrades, it will output less voltage, which will require more amperage. Its a downward spiral.

I went with the Swamps 58V when I had to fix my FICM, and at the lower EOT temps, The 58v output creates less amperage to do the same work. I expect it to last as long if not longer than my factory FICM.

Other issues like bad connections internally in the FICM will also cause issues with Voltage. Which in turn causes the FICM to eat itself.

Edit: I agree with Everything PGreen said.

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post #4 of 10 Old 04-06-2011, 05:22 PM
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Mine failed over time, set the CEL SEVERAL times and despite the repeated "warnings" I towed my trailer out into a forest in the middle of nowhere and THEN the FICM decided to crap the bed... Oh well. It wasn't as if I hadn't been warned...

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post #5 of 10 Old 04-06-2011, 07:55 PM
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My FICM main voltage is 48.5 Volts on startup and then drops down to 35Volts and gradualy increases until the oil temperature approches 150F and then it is 48/48.5 volts for the remainder of of the trips.

Should I rebuild it now or can I trust it as is. The truck works well and the engine runs realy smothly. I can monitor the operation with my scangaugeII that I periodicaly observe anyway.


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2005, 6.0L, 6 Spd Std, 3.73 Rear End, F250SD, Extended Cab, 4 x 4 Long Bed. 2008 extension mirrors. GPS/TV/DVD/CD/Rear Cam/Radio installed, Max Energy programer by Hypertech, and Fuel Pressure Gauge. ScanGaugeII for 60 plus XGauges, and MPG. ELC Cat EC-1 Coolant, Pull a 39ft 15500Lbs 5th Wheel Camper Trailer. Mileage Avg is 20MPG, and pulling 12.6MPG.
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post #6 of 10 Old 04-06-2011, 08:20 PM
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Its up to you. <45 volts = bad according to ford.

Jay
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post #7 of 10 Old 04-07-2011, 07:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caissiel View Post
My FICM main voltage is 48.5 Volts on startup and then drops down to 35Volts and gradualy increases until the oil temperature approches 150F and then it is 48/48.5 volts for the remainder of of the trips.

Should I rebuild it now or can I trust it as is. The truck works well and the engine runs realy smothly. I can monitor the operation with my scangaugeII that I periodicaly observe anyway.
Get if fixed right now! Mine started doing the same thing and eventually left me stranded. Those are warning signs and since you tow a trailer, you know how horrible it would be to be stranded somewhere without your tow vehicle.

Shawn Carlson

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CCV Reroute (Reinstated)
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BulletProof Water Pump
Riff Raff Intercooler Boots
Gogo Diesel Direct Drive Solenoid
BulletProof All-Aluminum Radiator
BulletProof All-Aluminum Intercooler
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post #8 of 10 Old 04-07-2011, 07:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caissiel View Post
My FICM main voltage is 48.5 Volts on startup and then drops down to 35Volts and gradualy increases until the oil temperature approches 150F and then it is 48/48.5 volts for the remainder of of the trips.

Should I rebuild it now or can I trust it as is. The truck works well and the engine runs realy smothly. I can monitor the operation with my scangaugeII that I periodicaly observe anyway.
Get it fixed. The low voltage could take out your injectors along with the FICM. It is cheaper to send the FICM to Swamps and get it upgraded to 58v than to get an OEM FICM.

Got questions about your 6.0?
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post #9 of 10 Old 04-07-2011, 07:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caissiel View Post
My FICM main voltage is 48.5 Volts on startup and then drops down to 35Volts and gradualy increases until the oil temperature approches 150F and then it is 48/48.5 volts for the remainder of of the trips.

Should I rebuild it now or can I trust it as is. The truck works well and the engine runs realy smothly. I can monitor the operation with my scangaugeII that I periodicaly observe anyway.
Get it fixed now

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post #10 of 10 Old 04-07-2011, 10:20 AM
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Gee thanks sure will watch it close.


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