What to look for when buying a 6.0???

[Trey7.3]

I sold my 01 F250 4x4 with 165k miles.
I am looking at a 2005 F250 crew lariat 4x4 with 160k miles for $10k.
Truck is clean inside and out. But when you first start it in the morning it smokes a little then clears up. He said it was in the shop a few years ago for the oil pump and thats all. What should I look for when buying a 6.0? Any input would be greatly appreciated.

[amdriven2liv]

This was posted by Bismic,

I would recommend trying for a 2006 year model. I think that buying a used 6.0L may be one of the best deals going right now. A lot of people have heard the horror stories and have traded them in. If you find a good price (which I have seen quite a few good deals) AND you have checked into the reputation of a local dealership on repairing the 6.0L - then GO FOR IT! So much depends on having a dealership that has competent techs to troubleshoot and work on any future problems.

If you are looking at used 6.0's here are a few considerations (along w/ the OASIS and CARFAX reports that are essential).

Some 6.0L weak points (things to check):

Look for signs of coolant degas bottle overflow (dry white residue on and around the degas bottle or no level in degas bottle).

Lots of idling can cause EGR problems. I look at the hours on the engine (if it has this monitored) and divide the miles by the hours (is it below 30? If so, may have had lots of idling).

Even without much extended idling EGR valves can plug quickly - maybe negotiate for a new EGR valve. In fact, I would negotiate for them to pull the EGR valve to inspect it (have them show it to you when it is out and then you need to look into the intake). Check for wetness (w/ rear end jacked up) and for excess soot. Wetness indicates an EGR cooler leak. If the valve is gunked up, have them replace the valve. If the intake is real bad, you may push them to clean it as well.

Look underneath for oil leaks - some trucks have had a lot of them.

If you buy from a dealership, I would negotiate for them to install the latest flash of all 3 processors (PCM, FICM, ECM).

Negotiating for an extended warranty is always a good thing as well.

Try to find out about the routine maintenance:
· Filter change intervals on time? What kind of oil (CI 4 + or CJ 4 - one of these is required)?
· OEM filters? Look at them and see what kind they are. Aftermarket filters can cause MAJOR problems.
· Find proof of Transmission being flushed/changed - it is recommended every 30,000 miles.
· Any exhaust problems visible (i.e. lots of white or blue smoke)? White smoke may mean an EGR cooler leak.

Check for any FLUID leaks (as stated previously - LOOK SPECIFICALLY FOR OIL LEAKS - 6.0L are prone to many of these from many possible places!!).

CEL (Check Engine Light) on? Consider getting a code reader and check for DTC's. You can have active DTC’s without a CEL.

The Electronic Shift on the Fly ESOF sometimes fails due to vacuum leaks. Be sure to check this out (several times in and out of 4WD and/or take front wheels off to inspect).

Check for excessive wheel bearing wear (looseness), sway bar (end link looseness), or ball joint looseness. Ball joints and sway bar end links tend to go out in the 70k-90k range. Jack one side up at a time and see if each wheel moves top to bottom only, if so, it is the ball joints. If it moves in all directions then probably wheel bearings.

Check the coolant - it should have the Motorcraft Gold Coolant - anything else and there may be problems. Look in the "degas" bottle and inspect the fluid - it should be gold colored and there should be NO OIL visible (oil emulsified in water can show up as brown sludge). As previously stated, the degas bottle should not have white residue around the sides of it (possible overheating issues).

Any evidence of a tuner (aftermarket air filter, gauges, etc)? Tuners may or may not be bad. Some tuners are MURDER on the transmission. Some dealerships will cause you a lot of problems w/ them - even if you bought it that way used.

Aftermarket air systems could be a problem. Many of them (like K&N) do not filter as well and could cause issues. Up to 500 hp, the stock air system is best!

Try to find out if the original owner ever ran it empty on fuel or have plugged filters (fuel pressure below 45 psig can damage injectors)?

Then the common stuff I'm sure you know:
· Look at and smell the fluids. Make sure fluids not burnt, not too thick or dirty.
· Check the tires - abnormal wear?
· How do the brakes look? Any pads need replacement? Are the rear brakes excessively worn?
· All electronics working? Especially the AC (repair can be expensive)?
· Dents? Air bag been replaced, etc.
· See if he has any repair or maintenance records.
· Take off the price for windshield dings, paint chipped, torn upholstery, etc.
· Does the truck look too clean? Does it look like the oil was just changed? May be hiding something.
· Any extras - tool boxes, bumpers, etc.?
· Drive it - does it hesitate, stutter, or surge? Does it blow white or black smoke? When driving, brake fairly hard - note any pulls, pops, clunks, rattles, etc. How does it accelerate? You should romp on it pretty good. Drive in reverse and then back and forth - listen for clunks.

Add or subtract value based on condition, high miles, and presence of extras.
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I would add that checking the ECT vs. EOT temps is imperative. If you are truly interested in buying a 6.0, I would get either the Scangauge II or Edge Insight to check temps. Each are basically plug and play into the OBD port. Scangauge II is about $169 and Edge Insight with EGT probe around $350. Then you will have gauges for which ever truck you end up with.

Happy shopping!

[Trey7.3]

Thanks for the info. Its not from a dealer. Ill just bring it to a mechanic that knows about powerstrokes

[Trey7.3]

One more Question.

If I put and EGR delete kit on truck I should be good to go?

[Lilpooh]

You got alot of reading to do.
Things to consider about owning a 6.0L

[Duke417]

First thing make sure you have a bunch of extra money to keep throwing at the truck. 30000 would be a start.

Look around this forum and see how much work people have done on these trucks just to keep them running

go to diesel mechanic school to save some money

Dont buy a 6.0= Save yourself the pain

[HVAC SuperTech]

Originally Posted by Duke417

First thing make sure you have a bunch of extra money to keep throwing at the truck. 30000 would be a start.

Look around this forum and see how much work people have done on these trucks just to keep them running

go to diesel mechanic school to save some money

Dont buy a 6.0= Save yourself the pain

come on man, really??? you have had 1 6.0 truck and it caused you trouble. do you know how much trouble I have had out of MY truck, and I have only had it 4 years. I have put over 20K in mine in parts and rebuilds and still have some issues. but thats all the fun, AND i do have 270K on my truck. ALL trucks will have some problems. Some more than others naturally. but they all have them.

There are TONS of 6.0 trucks out there and the numbers of them that actually have the serious issues are very small compared to all of them on the road.

[westcoaststrokin]

Someone go find his truck and buy it cheap, hell if it was local I would look into it.

[Duke417]

You are kidding me you put 20k in parts and rebuilds and you admit your truck still has problems? Like I said Junk. You just proved my point- Money Pit You guys must make lots of money.

[kuonen10]

duke what do you want for your truck I'm in the market for a 6.0 and it sounds like you need to get rid of yours so you can cancel you membership on here and buy a duramax or cummins because obviously a ford isn't right for you. I'm on my 6th or 7th ford all have treated me well.