Just changed coolant to ELC... a few notes for everyone - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 02-06-2011, 08:15 AM
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Just changed coolant to ELC... a few notes for everyone

NOTE: FOR EVERYONE'S SA, ENSURE YOU ARE USING EC-1 RATED CONCENTRATED (NOT PRE-MIXED) COOLANT!!

First of all, thanks Mitch (PGreenSVT) for the write-up as I used this as a basis. A little back ground on my truck, I just had a new oil cooler installed 25,000 miles ago along with a complete coolant flush using Ford Gold. My thermostat was replaced at the same time and I've recently had coolant temps of 179/180 at highway speeds with my EOT being about 191/192. So I knew my t-stat had to go and I was also concerned about my oil cooler being clogged (again). My average ECT/EOT differential was about 12 degrees.

Getting started. If you're trying to keep things a little cleaner on the initial dump, dump the radiator fluid first using the 3/4" plastic pet**** on left side. Once that's dumped, locate the driver's side block plug. This is located near the rear of the engine right above the manifold and is a 5/16th inch allen wrench head.

A note on this... I had a full set of allen wrenches and there was zero chance of this thing coming off with those keys. Luckily, my neighbor had a 3/8" drive allen socket and even with that, breaking this thing lose was a chore. So if you don't have one, I'd go out and get one. When the cooant comes out, it basically sprays everywhere and it will be a mess. Once the block drains, go to the lower radiator hose and drain this last and then dispose of all the coolant. I removed the t-stat assembly and seperated the actual t-stat from the housing which i then re-installed. Re-installing the new t-stat was the last step prior to filling with the new ELC coolant.

After this, I closed everything off and filled it back up with tap water. I then pulled the truck onto the concrete driveway and from here on out I simply let the water drain out with no buckets and it made things much easier/quicker. I had a good creeper to work on so i stayed dry during the 16 flushes I ended up doing.

If you're like me and you have a coolant filter, go to napa and get a 3/8" vacuum connector and bypass this. You should be re-installing a new filter anyway. Just prior to installing new t-stat, I installed the new filter and reconnected all the appropriate hoses.

Having topped off and driven the truck this morning and taken for a highway cruise, my ECT's are right at 191 where they should be. To my pleasure, my EOT's hang right at 196 and this is all at 70mph, flat. The biggest thing is that I now have peace of mind knowing I'm not clogging my system up with the Ford Gold. Hope this helps break things down for some folks.

Last edited by taskforcefreddy; 02-07-2011 at 01:19 PM.
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Old 02-06-2011, 09:13 AM
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Congrats man. Nice write up and your results look great. This really is one of the cheaper things you can do with the biggest bang for the bucks return for the reliability of your truck. Your truck thanks you I am sure.
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Old 02-06-2011, 08:25 PM
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I have all the parts to do this, I am just waiting on all this ice and snow to settle down first.
I am wondering if my oil cooler might be clogged but I hope not. I dont have anything to read my EOT and ECT difference but when I got my headstuds put in I did the EGR delete and put new gold coolant in. I am assuming what screws up the gold coolant is if you still had an EGR system and the exhaust heat getting to the coolant?
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Old 02-06-2011, 08:56 PM
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Good joband thanks to you and your platoon for serving
2 stroker
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Old 02-07-2011, 06:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CCSBD View Post
I have all the parts to do this, I am just waiting on all this ice and snow to settle down first.
I am wondering if my oil cooler might be clogged but I hope not. I dont have anything to read my EOT and ECT difference but when I got my headstuds put in I did the EGR delete and put new gold coolant in. I am assuming what screws up the gold coolant is if you still had an EGR system and the exhaust heat getting to the coolant?
Not really. What screws up the Ford Gold are the silicate compounds that get clogged up in the oil cooler which then restricts flow to the EGR system. This in turn allows the EGR to overheat/warp/crack causing for more severe issues.
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Old 02-07-2011, 07:21 AM
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In the process of doing this now. I modified slightly from how people said do it.

I drained my Ford stuff..It was green so i think the previous owner changed it but i dont think he knew the mixture as it looks like 75% water 25% coolant. I think they filled it with 50/50.

Anyhow i drained all that then the flushed it till all i saw was clear water. Then added the Restor. 3/4 gallon. Ran that for 90minutes on the highway.

Flushed that. My flushing method is what i changed. I opened the plug on the radiator and let it drain into my bucket. While doing that i put the garden hose in the De Gas bottle on a very low setting. Then i started the truck and ran it at 1200 RPM while it flushed. Took about 30 minutes till water had very little bubbles and didnt feel slimy. It was clear though.

Since i dont have a high idle switch i took my long pry bar and stuck it on the go pedal and used the power seat to apply the right amount of pressure LOL.
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Old 02-07-2011, 08:11 AM
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So the ford coolant is junk?
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Old 02-07-2011, 08:28 AM
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Most will say Yes. But the consensus is change it out wether you have issues or not to stop from having issues.

The Gold Coolant has silicates and as time goes on it breaks down into a goo type substance and when this goo trys to go threw the radiator type systesm such as the oil cooler and radiator it will clog up the vanes.

After enough time the cooling system is disabled and then you get over heating issues. Primary it seems the oil cooler over heats or stops working causing ERG failure. When this system fails it likes to fill your cyclinders with coolant and blows the head gaskets.

This is what has plagued the 6.0 and caused most of its bad reputation.

I have 60K on my truck and havnt had any issues but im flushing it all out and going with an ELC < extended life coolant > because it doesnt have the silicates to break down and its rated at 300K + miles.

The masses swear by it and who am i to argue. Theres no way i want to spend 4 to 6K on head gaskets and studs if i dont have to.
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Old 02-07-2011, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocweiller View Post
So the ford coolant is junk?
Junk Good reading


This is very important information check link at bottom



Quote:
Originally Posted by Gwar
Does the lack of silicate have any adverse affects??? Not to ask a dumb question but why would ford continue to use a coolant that causes serious issues with its engines???

Does the 6.0L come from the factory with the ford gold or something from international???

(QUOTE) Posted by PGreenSVT at Powerstroke.org

Can't explain away Ford's logic. International uses Fleetrite ELC. Think about it. Whats is another silicate? Sand immediately come to mind. What is sand? It's an abrasive. Besides that it turns to a gell from the heat as it goes through the egr cooler trying to carry off the heat from high egt's resulting in the sludge that clogs the oil cooler. There is a substanial body of evidence supporting this.

Not having silicates is a positive thing. It has no adverse affects. ELC coolant is good for 300k miles without any additives and extendable to 600k with an additive pack at 300k. The new Delo ELC is good for 750k miles or 8 years extendable to 1 million miles.

I think it pretty much speaks for itself.
__________________
I'm on a campaign man. That Gold cxxp is killing our trucks and people need to know. It is the cause of the biggest problems we have with the 6.0 and the bad reputation the 6.0 has. And it is pretty cheap and easy to eliminate. People should know this. So yeah, I'm beating that drum. The other drum is the need to monitor ECT and EOT before you blow your egr cooler and head gaskets.

I just did a flush with Fleetrite Restore, VC9, lots of flushing, installed a coolant filter, and switched to ELC. Im curious to see what my coolant filter will look like after the first 500 miles, I know there is still most likely some cxxp in there still as I still have the stock EGR and oil cooler at 34k miles but I doubt there will be anywhere the abount that we see out of most of the posts with opened up coolant filters.

I recently installed the DieselSite.com coolant filter kit on my 2006 6.0. The kit came complete with everything you need and also came with the new billet aluminum filter head, looks really sharp.

PGreenSVT, dude you need to change your screen name to "ELC FOR LIFE!"

But I agree I just switched to ELC also, either way it cant be any worse than the gold, for those of you that have doubts just scrape the bottom of your degas bottle, thats the same cxxp thats clogging your oil cooler. When I did my flush I pulled my degas bottle and scrubbed it with a bottle brush, that cxxp is like glue.
also read this




(QUOTE) Posted by PGreenSVT Powerstroke.org





--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Here is the deal with the 6.0. Any good tuner (person writing your tunes) is not going to give you a tune that is going to tear up your truck. There are trucks all over the place running 400-420 rwhp with 750-800 rwtq all day long without problems.

Yes the 6.0 is known to blow head gaskets. This is why it happens. The Ford Gold coolant contains silicates. The silicates are not able to handle high EGT's generated by a good load or relatively high boost when run through the EGR cooler. They break down into a jell like sludge and fall out of suspension. This crud gets caught up in the tiny coolant passageways of the oil cooler. As the cooler clogs up it restricts coolant flow to the egr cooler. Now the egr cooler doesn't have enough coolant to carry off the heat generated by high EGT's. The limited amount of coolant in the egr cooler flash boils causing high pressure in the cooling system and the truck pukes coolant from the degas bottle due to the pressure. (it has to go somewhere)
Your uninformed Powerstroke owner is not monitoring his coolant temps and oil temps so he doesn't know whats going on and he keeps driving it this way. The problem get worse, the pressure causes the egr cooler to rupture. Now the egr cooler is leaking coolant into the intake manifold which then runs into the cylinders. Again the high combustion temps cause the coolant to vaporize. This causes unacceptably high cylinder pressure, the TTY head bolts stretch due to the additional pressure and there go your head gaskets.

Ok now you know the problem. Here's the cure. Get a good engine monitoring solution like the Edge Insight so that you can monitor your ECT and EOT. If those temps get more than 15* apart at normal cruising when at normal operating temperature your oil cooler is clogging up. Rebuild it now to prevent all that down stream damage from occurring. Flush that Ford Gold coolant cxxp out of your engine with a couple bottles of Restore. This is made specifically to clean out that silicate residue. Now refill it with a silicate free Cat EC-1 rated ELC coolant. This removes the silicates that clog the oil cooler from the equation. If you live in an area where you don't have smog inspections delete the egr system. If you can't delete it replace the egr cooler with the cooler manufactured by Bulletproof Diesel. This is vastly superior to the Ford oem egr cooler and it will not fail on you. If you find that you need to replace head gaskets replace the TTY head bolts with ARP studs and use black onyx (Victor Reinz) head gaskets. If you have to replace the egr cooler always replace the oil cooler. That is the source of the problem.

Now that you have addressed the common problems that scare the hell out of people, get an SCT tuner (i like the X3) and install some custom tunes and drive the heck out of it. DO NOT baby it. The Powerstroke hates this and will rebel with turbo issues.

Turbo issues are also common repair points with the 6.0. People like to complain that it's because the VGT turbos are pieces of junk. This is not so. The VGT vanes in the turbo need to be exercised regularly. This means making them go through there full range of motion. So put your foot in it regularly and let is see some full boost runs. That will keep your VGT vanes from getting all sooted up and freezing up because of the soot. Again, that is what happens when you baby it. Put you foot in it and you will have less problems. Lay out of it and try to milk it for mileage like you would a gasser and you're going to have turbo issues. Don't let it sit either. That is also the kiss of death to the turbo. The unison ring rusts up and again you have turbo problems. So now that you know you need to give your turbo a regular work out to keep it happy, give it a proper cool down as well. Just whipping into your parking place and shutting it down will lead to coking the bearings and again major turbo issues. Running a good synthetic oil will help here immensely because it handles heat so much better and resists coking. But always let your turbo have time to cool down. This is one of the reasons you need a Pyrometer (EGT gauge), Let the EGT come down to 350* before shutting your truck off. This only takes a couple of minutes, especially if you take it easy on it for the last couple minutes of your trip. If this is too much hassle for you get a turbo timer that will automatically delay shutdown when you turn off the key to allow the turbo to cool down.

Injectors. Fords injection system HEUI fires the injectors with High Pressure Oil, to the tune of 4,000psi at Wide Open Throttle. Maintenance is critical here so you can not let your oil maintenance slide like you can on a gasser. It will kill your injectors. The injectors also are known to suffer from something that we call stiction. That is when the oil side spool valve of the injects hangs up or sticks when cold until the truck warms up. I believe this is caused by varnish buildup that is common to dino oils, especially those containing paraffin. Using a good synthetic oil will take care of that because it actually cleans the engine as it lubricates. If you do find yourself with some injector stiction add a couple of bottles of Rev-X to your oil. It has cleared up 99.9% of the trucks it has been used on. 2 bottles run around $70. A new injector is about $250-$290. Be anal about keeping your oil clean and fresh and changing your fuel filters regularly. The other thing that kills injectors is low fuel pressure. The fuel pressure needs to stay above 45psi at all times and is typically set around 52 psi from the factory. Well the Factory fuel pressure regulator spring is weak and looses it's tension over time and can't maintain adequate fuel pressure. There is an updated rebuild kit that uses a better, stronger spring. Installing this spring will bring your fuel pressure up to about 62 psi and solve that. Get a fuel pressure gauge. It's important.

So that covers the frequent complaints with the 6.0. They are all well known at this point as are the solutions. Does it suck we have to fix Ford's blunders? Heck yes it does. But again we know how and once done you will have a very reliable robust truck that is well worth the effort. So address the issues as you can and enjoy your truck. It is a dynamite vehicle. I love mine.

If you like pictures have a look here.

Replaced oil cooler still difference in temps
2 stroker
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Old 02-07-2011, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocweiller View Post
So the ford coolant is junk?
This topic is well documented and argued on this forum. What can't be overlooked are the silicate compounds that are in the Ford Gold which can lead to EGR and head failures. There are risks associated with changing to ELC as well however knowing that you will no longer be clogging up your Oil Cooler (and burning out your EGR) outweighs these risks.
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