New Guy With 2006 6.0

[sockwell]

Hello folks, new guy here. Last year I bought a 2006 F250 with the 6.0. It is used as a daily driver, occasionally pulling a 30 camper and equipment trailer. I was totally unaware of the issues with the 6.0 until joining this forum and reading a few of the monthly magazines. My truck has 70k on it and is doing fine. I started reading up on the truck because I'm getting the bug to improve it. I've quickly learned how ignorant I am about this engine.

I've seen the issues with the EGR heat exchanger. What is the recommended fix, including preferred brands? I've seen kits advertised ranging from $300 to $1200.

Also, what can be done about the head bolts? I've read about a project truck in 4 Wheeler. The cost to do all this was about $7,000. I can't afford to be out that much money.

What should be my priorities for correcting the problems with this engine.

Last topic: I'd like to lift the truck with one of the 4" to 4.5" kits. Will this affect the trucks towing ability? Neither of the trailers mentioned above are 5th wheel.

[Flooringit]

well all these truck dont have these problems mine has 80k no problems yet, some do have these problems, got to remember powerstroke out sold all the other diesels so many more break downs because theres so many trucks out there. Headstuds arent 7 k there 500 but the labor if you can find someone besides dealer do it should be 1500 egr delete is 300 everyone had there own favorites. do alot yourself save you money. but just change coolant regulary escpecially if your towing alot. and do your filters on schedule, theres 2 fuel filters a change at 15k the one below spray out the housing with good carb cleaner every time you change the filter. there are also 2 trans filters one up by radiator under it passenger side, it says to change at 30k it pricey 50 bucks other one is in trans.also will help your truck if you empty the water drain every oil change its easy
there are many updates like fuel pressure spring id do first and its easy to do. stc fitting and oil rail plugs. drian tube on turbo.
as far as lift I just oredered a icon 4.5 in lift says no affect on towing so well see. its pricey but suppose to ride the best but you can only read so much before you buy, alot of people have opinions after they bought 1 thing i dont give them unless i buy a couple and try them out to have a fair comparrison

[PGreenSVT]

Order of priority:

1. Get a good engine monitoring system like an Edge Insight and monitor your ECT & EOT. If the temp delta exceeds 15* then the oil cooler is clogged and needs replacing.
2. Flush the cooling system and replace the coolant with a Cat EC-1 rated ELC coolant. It is the silicates in Ford's G-05 coolant that clogs the oil cooler.
3. Delete the egr system if you can. If you can't because of emission testing replace the egr cooler with the Bulletproof Diesel egr cooler.
4 If you have to replace the oil cooler while you are there replace the HPOP screen, update the STC fitting and dummy plugs. You might also consider replacing the IPR while you are there.
5. IF you have to replace the head gaskets that is the time to install ARP head studs.

Stay on top of your maintenance. I highly recommend the use of 5wXX synthetic oil. The 5w will provide better cold starts and quicker warm ups for the injectors. The use of a good synthetic will keep them clean and avoid varnish buildup and injector stiction. Use Motorcraft or Racor filters. The Racors are the same thing and much cheaper.

Consider installing bypass coolant and oil filters. Clean oil is essential to healthy operation of the fuel injection system.

Blown head gaskets and egr coolers begin with clogged oil coolers. The only way to detect a clogged oil cooler before other things start failing is to MONITOR YOUR ECT & EOT temps. Do it. It isn't optional, it's a requirement.

Get an SCT X3 and some custom tunes and enjoy the he11 out of your truck.