I was told Bad EGR - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
User Tag List

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 13 Old 02-01-2011, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
Powerstroke.org Rookie
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 18
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I was told Bad EGR

I was told by a performance diesel mechanic that my truck was showing symptoms of a egr goin south. He took off a vent or breather hose on the passenger side intake manifold and there was black wet stuff. wasnt gooey just looked like wet soot like on ur tailpipe. My truck is a 07 250 with 110,000 miles no problems at all before this. it has 4inch tb exhaust, sct tuner with idp tunes. i have a edge insight monitor and my EOT and ECT dont diff as much as 12 degrees. And it goes back down to 3 degrees diff when let idle. So is this a good time to delete the egr, replace theoil cooler, and do a remote coolant filter? I dont know what to do the truck still has great response and doesnt pour out any white smoke. The over flow bottle has no signs of coolant coming out. it will use a lil coolant every 5,000 miles but not enough to freak out about. i mean hardly any at all. He said that if i do the egr delete now it will lesson the chance of head gasket failure. I am goin to do the install myself. Has anybody used the River City Diesel egr delete? And is it worth to do the remote coolant filter or just flush the coolant and replace the stock one. Thanks for any help
1BadOutlaw is offline  
post #2 of 13 Old 02-01-2011, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
Powerstroke.org Rookie
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 18
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Come on guys give me somethin
1BadOutlaw is offline  
post #3 of 13 Old 02-01-2011, 07:34 PM
Compression Ignition Addict
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Warren, Oregon
Posts: 1,515
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1BadOutlaw View Post
I was told by a performance diesel mechanic that my truck was showing symptoms of a egr goin south. He took off a vent or breather hose on the passenger side intake manifold and there was black wet stuff. wasnt gooey just looked like wet soot like on ur tailpipe. My truck is a 07 250 with 110,000 miles no problems at all before this. it has 4inch tb exhaust, sct tuner with idp tunes. i have a edge insight monitor and my EOT and ECT dont diff as much as 12 degrees. And it goes back down to 3 degrees diff when let idle. So is this a good time to delete the egr, replace theoil cooler, and do a remote coolant filter? I dont know what to do the truck still has great response and doesnt pour out any white smoke. The over flow bottle has no signs of coolant coming out. it will use a lil coolant every 5,000 miles but not enough to freak out about. i mean hardly any at all. He said that if i do the egr delete now it will lesson the chance of head gasket failure. I am goin to do the install myself. Has anybody used the River City Diesel egr delete? And is it worth to do the remote coolant filter or just flush the coolant and replace the stock one. Thanks for any help
If you want to check temps, you need to drive for about 20 minutes to get the motor warmed up 190* then set your cruise at 55mph on flat ground and run for about 5 minutes then take your readings, mine are ECT 190* EOT 192-194* this is a true test with outside temp 50-60* Max difference 15*
To start with a coolant filter is a must then do a coolant flush this is by Mitch PGreenSVT hope it helps
2 stroker

Flushing and cleaning the 6.0

Restore is for cleaning out any silicate goo. VC-9 is for cleaning out iron and scale. Restore Plus is the same as VC-9 and cheaper.

To flush drain the coolant by removing the lower radiator hose from the radiator, and removing the drain plug from the driver side of the block. There is a drain plug on the passenger side also but you have to remove the starter to get to it. I don't bother with that one. You can skip the block drains if you want except for the final drain before adding fresh coolant. You will just have to flush a few more times to get the block clear.

I also highly recommend you pull the thermostat out on your first drain and put the housing back without the thermostat. It only takes about 10 minutes and will save you 2.5 hrs or so in doing this whole procedure.

Ok now put the lower hose back on and the drain plug back in the block if you removed it. This is the procedure you will use each time to drain the system, except you will not touch the thermostat again until you're finished the whole procedure. Make sure that you set your heater to high while doing this to flush out the heater core as well.

Fill the cooling system with tap water, start the truck and let the water circulate for 5 minutes. (if you did not remove the thermostat you must run the truck until the thermostat opens + 5 minutes to circulate. This takes 15 to 20 minutes each cycle and is why you should just remove the thermostat) Stop the engine. Drain the system and repeat the flush.

Now add at least 1/2 gallon of Restore and fill with tap water. Drive truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes. Drain and flush 3 or 4 times.

Add 2qts VC-9 or 1/2gal of Restore Plus, top with tap water, and drive the truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes. Now drain and flush until flush water comes out clear and clean. When you get clean flush water, flush 3 more times using distilled water if you are draining the block or 5 times if not. This is to replace any tap water in the cooling system with distilled water and very important.

After your final distilled water drain it is time to put the thermostat back in. I recommend you install a new thermostat at this point. They are only $20 or so and it is good maintenance procedure to do so. Fill with 3.5 or 4 gals of ELC concentrated coolant and top off with distilled water. Drive the truck or let run for a while topping off with distilled water. Check the truck over the next few days and top up as required while any air left in the system works its way out.

Keep some 50/50 ELC on hand to use to top off the cooling system from here out and you are good to go.

Hope this helps.

Mitch

06 F350 4x4 PSD Lariat FX4 CC LB
Edge Insight CTS Expandable Pyro
AutoMeter Fuel Pressure Gauge
Updated Fuel Reg. Kit 3C3Z-9T517-AG
Amsoil By-Pass(Amsoil 5w40)
Delo ELC Coolant
Coolant Filtration System
pulling a 14,000 lb Alpenlite 5er
97 F350 4x4 PSD CC LB
PacBrake&ATS converter lockup
3" dp 4" exhaust
TruCool 28,000 lb cooler
Tymar Intake
A piller EGT,Boost,Trans

Last edited by 2 stroker; 02-01-2011 at 07:37 PM.
2 stroker is offline  
post #4 of 13 Old 02-02-2011, 03:07 AM
Compression Ignition Addict
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 469
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
The mechanic "looked" at your truck and said the EGR is going south??? From your description of the truck running fine, I'm wondering why he was even in there in the first place. I do get curious when you say it uses a bit of coolant. Don't think it should use any at all. You used this mechanic before??? Just from the way I'm reading the post, it sounds like he's fishing for some work. Could just be me though.

Normally when an egr cooler goes, it goes bad quick and the trucks smoke alot and run like crap. EGR valve can cause some loss of power and some smoke too, but that can be cleaned and reinstalled.

I'm very interested in where this "tell-tale" hose on the passenger side is that the mechanic removed to look for premature EGR failure????? I wanna know, cause I'll be looking at it every week or two!

2004 F250 CC SB 4x4 Lariat
WIX intake with zoodad mod
(05 & up) Innovative Diesel intake elbow with butterfly valve manifold removed
4" SS T-Back no kitty exhaust
SCT X3 w/ I.D. Custom Tunes
Gauges: EGT, Boost, Tranny Temp
Pace Edwards bed cover / B&W Gooseneck Hitch / Linex
DieselSite coolant filtration system
DC Power Engineering 250A Alternator

Submariners do it deeper!!!
ShawnCT450R is offline  
post #5 of 13 Old 02-02-2011, 05:45 AM
Compression Ignition Addict
 
caissiel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 777
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 1
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
From what I have read here on the forum, the EGR valve moisture check seam to be the best place to check the moisture from a failed EGR cooler. The EGR valve is right next to the cooler passage and if moisture in the EGR is present it will show up there.

But a slight amount of moisture could quickly evaporate in the EGR passages, and might show up again at the engine. The vent that is discussed is the engine breather where moisture in the oil is possibly evaporated There might be an other source of moisture then to the top of the engine air passage.

On my VW diesels oil in the coolant usualy was a sign of head gasket failure. The water would darken when that happened.

2005, 6.0L, 6 Spd Std, 3.73 Rear End, F250SD, Extended Cab, 4 x 4 Long Bed. 2008 extension mirrors. GPS/TV/DVD/CD/Rear Cam/Radio installed, Max Energy programer by Hypertech, and Fuel Pressure Gauge. ScanGaugeII for 60 plus XGauges, and MPG. ELC Cat EC-1 Coolant, Pull a 39ft 15500Lbs 5th Wheel Camper Trailer. Mileage Avg is 20MPG, and pulling 12.6MPG.
caissiel is offline  
post #6 of 13 Old 02-02-2011, 06:02 AM Thread Starter
Powerstroke.org Rookie
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 18
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
The hose i am talkinig about is easy to find on the passenger side front of the inatke manifold. It is small black hose with a red clamp on the bottom. No i havent used this mechanic before he is a freind of a freind. Truck has never been in the shop before. This will be the first problem the truck has ever had. Thanks for all the help guys
1BadOutlaw is offline  
post #7 of 13 Old 02-02-2011, 06:14 AM
Compression Ignition Addict
 
MUDSTROKIN''s Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Roanoke, VA
Posts: 1,212
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
If you have the money to dothe EGR delete and coolant filter antime is a great time to do it.

2005 F250 Reg cab LB XL

Airaid CAI
4" MBRP straight pipe from the turbo back.
RCD EGR Delete
Upgraded Banjo Bolts
Zoodad Mod
Swamps HOT FICM
Lariat Captains Chairs with woodgrain center console

MUDSTROKIN' is offline  
post #8 of 13 Old 02-02-2011, 06:53 AM
Powerstroke.org Rookie
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
bad outlaw, if you can afford it get rid of egr cooler asap, i have had two of them fail with no warning and it wasn't pretty nor cheap one on my 04 and one on my 06
okiedokie is offline  
post #9 of 13 Old 02-02-2011, 07:35 AM
Compression Ignition Addict
 
Jayson41's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: SOCAL
Posts: 289
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
To back up what you were told park your truck nose down over night, next morning pull the egr valve out and look down in the hole. If it is wet/gooey looking then swap the egr cooler or ditch the pos. Also, change the oil cooler since you are there, also a good time to clean the turbo since it is off and do the HPOP screen. (Holy run on sentence)

Bullet Proof Diesel Semi Bullet Proof Kit - Diesel Site Coolant Filter - Banks Monster 4" Exhaust - High Idel Switch - 2.5 inch Leveling Kit - 295/70/18 Nitto Trail Grappler M/T's - Amsoil
Jayson41 is offline  
post #10 of 13 Old 02-02-2011, 10:12 AM
Super Moderator


 
PGreenSVT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Abingdon, Md.
Posts: 11,991
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Thanks: 4
Thanked 45 Times in 18 Posts
Feedback Score: 3 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1BadOutlaw View Post
The hose i am talkinig about is easy to find on the passenger side front of the inatke manifold. It is small black hose with a red clamp on the bottom. No i havent used this mechanic before he is a freind of a freind. Truck has never been in the shop before. This will be the first problem the truck has ever had. Thanks for all the help guys

The hose you are referring to goes to the MAP sensor and is where your computer gets it's boost pressure information. Not the typical test point for a egr cooler check.

If he suspects that your egr cooler is failing and didn't tell you it's time to rebuild the oil cooler tell him thanks a lot then go find someone who understands the 6.0 to work on your truck. Better yet, learn how to work on it yourself and you make sure it gets done right the first time.
PGreenSVT is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome