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06 hard start on a "cold" texas morning 34 degrees....Help?
Heres the video of my 6.0 starting at 34 degrees outside. This is without being plugged in. I've had some great suggestions that it might be the oil (i'm running 15w40) while others have said injectors!
I just wanted to get some more input on it... ![]() thanks for all y'alls help |
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that sounds kinda rough starting up. Sounds like the fuel is not igniting quickly enough to me maybe check the glow plugs to make sure they are all working great. I alos know mine was kinda crappy sounding like that until i replaced the batteries and they didnt sound week starting just like yours dont but it did make a world of difference when i changed them. I also know when i use the 2stroke oil as and addative it reall y quits down the cold starts. I dont plug in mine either and can start with no problem at 10 deg. With out using the 2stroke oil it is much louder though.
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I would check the FICM voltage. If it checks out ok, I would switch to a thinner oil and add some Rev-X.
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Injector stiction often times can be caused by a thick oil. It can not be completely corrected by switching back to a proper "winter weight" oil, but it can help. A 5W40 or 10W30 weight is a good preventative measure going forward - along with the most recent flash update. Rev X is said to help also.
There is a small spool valve in the top of the injector that controls the flow of high oil pressure fed to the intensifier piston in the fuel injector. That spool valve only moves .017", back and forth, on and off every time the injector fires. Many factors play in to how well that valve works such as, oil temp, oil quality, normal wear, ambient temp, and many others. As this valve ages it polishes itself inside the bore of the spool valve and as the spool valve slams back and forth it can set up the condition like a suction cup, hanging the valve to one side or the other. This uncommanded uncontrollable condition is called stiction. Mostly its a rough run cold condition but in severe cases it can be a no start or pretty harsh misfire condition. Oil that stays inside the valve on a hot engine shutdown and is allowed to cool slowly in the injector can aggravate the condition on restart, so the newest reflash uses inductive heat after shutdown to keep the oil warm, keep its viscosity low, and maximize the oil flowability to purge the oil from them. It has worked well. |
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FICM voltage is at 48.9V so thats still good. The batteries are brand new :/ I think i need to go to ford to get that flash. Oil is what i've been hearing and i guess that'll be my next step
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Just be aware:
1. The proper FICM testing is while cranking, and at 2000 rpm (if you can get it to run), as well as KOEO. 2. Sometimes the FICM is bad even if the voltages are in proper range. Last edited by bismic; 01-19-2011 at 07:16 PM. |
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Quote:
Thanks! |
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It shouldn't drop below 46 volts while cranking.
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Check the FICM voltage at 3 points.
(1) Key on engine off (2) While cranking (3) With engine running As bad as a cold start as you're having, I'd check it in the AM when these conditions exist to get accurate readings. Sounds pretty rough man!! |
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FICM, FICM, FICM.....got to be 48 volts at key on, cranking AND running! Anything less causes LOADs of downsteam problems with starting, idleing, missfiring, etc. FICM Fix is great tempoary fix, but when you get time, send it off to one of the outfits that rebuilds the entire board and replaces all the planned obsolesce crap Ford put in them!
Be careful of FICM upgrades that increase the voltage to 50+! Remember there are other components downstream that are desigend for 48max!!!! Don't want to solve one probem and cause another! Even in cold temps (15 degrees), you should be able to cycle the glow plugs once and it should fire right up and idle smooth within a few seconds. |
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