Do I need a New Oil Cooler??????? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 16 Old 11-30-2010, 09:59 PM Thread Starter
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Do I need a New Oil Cooler???????

I'm getting ready to do the coolant flush w/elc and add the bypass filter also adding a oil bypass filter and EGR delete. I really don't want to buy a new oil cooler if I don't have to but at the same time if I'm better off to go ahead and replace it I will. The truck is a 05 with 124,000 miles. I just bought it but the Oasis report shows it having the oil cooler replaced. I can't remember the date it shows being replaced but I know its been within the past two years. So replace it or spend the money on something else.
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post #2 of 16 Old 11-30-2010, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Sesco4 View Post
I'm getting ready to do the coolant flush w/elc and add the bypass filter also adding a oil bypass filter and EGR delete. I really don't want to buy a new oil cooler if I don't have to but at the same time if I'm better off to go ahead and replace it I will. The truck is a 05 with 124,000 miles. I just bought it but the Oasis report shows it having the oil cooler replaced. I can't remember the date it shows being replaced but I know its been within the past two years. So replace it or spend the money on something else.
The only way to tell if you have a plugged cooler or a free flow oil cooler is with gauges something like the Edge Insight. My coolers are running around 2 to 4 degrees difference going 55-60 MPH after it warms up your cooler may be good need gauges to tell. ECT 190* EOT 194* Gauges
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post #3 of 16 Old 12-01-2010, 02:43 AM
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Like 2 Stroker said, you need to know the state of your oil cooler ay present. if your deltas show it is flowing freely I would just flush it and change over. If it is showing that there is some obstruction I would change it. A clear oil cooler will have a delta of about 4-7 degrees when warmed up at normal cruise. If you are showing any more of a delta it migh not be a bad idea to put a known good oil cooler in, especially if you can do your ouwn work.
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post #4 of 16 Old 12-01-2010, 04:09 AM
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I did the coolant flush on mine 2 wks ago , this weekend it puked water out degass, guess I got enough crud loose it plugged stuff up ....I have almost the same miles you do on my '05
I just picked up a Ford Oil Cooler kit off e-bay last night for $120
shop around there are some deals out there.......now if I could get the EGR delete for the same price ..LOL


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post #5 of 16 Old 12-01-2010, 05:04 AM
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To the OP, if you're throwing all this maintenance at the engine (all good stuff mind you) the money is much better spent to get testing tools first. Be it an Edge Insight type, AE Scanner or similar it's more important to determine the condition of your engine before taking anything apart, in my opinion anyway. These are expensive engines and the factory monitoring is sub par.

That said, if you have already purchased all the items you listed and don't have any monitoring and need to do the work before x time, then spend the $200 and put in a new oil cooler, but if not, spend the money and get something to determine what you need.

You can go broke implementing everything that is suggested. For me, I prefer to fix what is broken, or known to be better (ie. updated fuel pressure spring) then start to replace parts that aren't bad. My oil cooler(s) were bad and required replacement, I knew this because of the difference in ECT and EOT. If those temps were not bad, I never would have taken apart the top of the engine.

And for what it's worth, on mine even with a 50 degree EOT / ECT difference, not 1 drop of coolant was puked, it wasn't until I got the gauges that I knew.

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post #6 of 16 Old 12-01-2010, 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by nylyon View Post
To the OP, if you're throwing all this maintenance at the engine (all good stuff mind you) the money is much better spent to get testing tools first. Be it an Edge Insight type, AE Scanner or similar it's more important to determine the condition of your engine before taking anything apart, in my opinion anyway. These are expensive engines and the factory monitoring is sub par.

That said, if you have already purchased all the items you listed and don't have any monitoring and need to do the work before x time, then spend the $200 and put in a new oil cooler, but if not, spend the money and get something to determine what you need.

You can go broke implementing everything that is suggested. For me, I prefer to fix what is broken, or known to be better (ie. updated fuel pressure spring) then start to replace parts that aren't bad. My oil cooler(s) were bad and required replacement, I knew this because of the difference in ECT and EOT. If those temps were not bad, I never would have taken apart the top of the engine.

And for what it's worth, on mine even with a 50 degree EOT / ECT difference, not 1 drop of coolant was puked, it wasn't until I got the gauges that I knew.
Good points Nylon. I don't believe in tearing things apart to replace parts unless necessary either. That's why I include the caveat of knowing the ECT & EOT delta in my comments. By all means you need a good monitoring solution to keep track of these motors. If you do your own work you need something like AutoEnginuity to perform adequate diagnostics. You can go broke in a hurry throwing parts at these trying to fix problems. No need to fix things until a problem develops, then do the proper upgrade so it doesn't happen again.
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post #7 of 16 Old 12-01-2010, 05:46 PM
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Not trying to high jack this thread, but i am wondering what is too hot for the EOT? with my plow on my truck today I saw 210* normally it sits around 175* to 185* ish. I know my plow has a lot to do with it because it blocks so much air flow, normally I take it off or do minimal driving with it on.
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post #8 of 16 Old 12-02-2010, 02:50 AM
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When your oil temp gets to 350* the stand pipe in the oil filter housing melts and the motor is trash. 210 isn't extreme at all. When the EOT is 210 what is the ECT? The difference in the two is what's important to know first.

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post #9 of 16 Old 12-02-2010, 03:09 AM
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if i was taking it apart to delete the egr cooler there is no way i would leave the old oil cooler in there. it is just to much work to have to do this. do it right the first time and you wont have to worry about it.

also, since you'll have it torn down and have easy access to it, upgrade the stc fitting on the hpop. this is a known high failure part and you'll have easy access to it.
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post #10 of 16 Old 12-02-2010, 03:17 AM
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if money is not a problem, go with the Bullet Proof Diesel oil cooler and never worry about it again. and you won't need the coolant filter either.Worse case if you live in cold area you might need to put cardboard over the cooler so as not to overcool.Added benifit of the Bullet Proof set up is more oil , I think I'm at 22 quarts now if I remember right.Also you get a real oil filter with the kit, not the small thing that sits on top that drains all the crud back into the motor when you remove it.
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