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  #1  
Old 09-30-2010, 12:29 AM
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Angry 6.0 no boost

We have a 03 Ford Bobtail here in Afghanistan that has lost its boost. We replaced everything on the top end and the injectors. Runs fine in park but will loose its boost at 1500 Rpms when we are going to drive it. We replaced the turbo, EGR, intake,IPR (.8V), ICP(.25V), oil cooler, injectors (8), High pressure oil pump. We listened for leaks and swapped FICMS. When sitting for 30 min hard to start, extended crank time.

Last edited by 455th VM Afghanistan; 09-30-2010 at 12:34 AM. Reason: add ons
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  #2  
Old 09-30-2010, 01:36 AM
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have you checked all of the boots for cracks?
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Old 09-30-2010, 02:56 AM
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what boots are you talking about???
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Old 09-30-2010, 03:02 AM
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I think he is refering to the cac tubes from intercooler to turbo. (blue)
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  #5  
Old 09-30-2010, 03:33 AM
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The hard start extended crank time has me wondering. DId you pressure test the High pressure oil system? Did you hook a scanner to it? Or did you just start throwing parts at it and hope for the best?


Pressure test the HPOS start there. When you say lost boost. Do you mean you actually lost boost or you lost power?
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Old 09-30-2010, 08:16 AM
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I'm one the guys that has been helping 455th with the job. I actually started the troubleshooting what the problem could be.

The problem is this, it takes about 30-40sec of cranking to get the truck started. After this it'll take 5-10sec to start it. If it sits for about 10 minutes it'll be back to cranking an extending period of time just to start. I have used a snap-on solus to see my icp pressure take an awful long time to build enough pressure in the HPOS to start. After that we took it for a drive and the truck will take off like it's running good, but as soon as it hits roughly 5mph it'll just have a power drop and seem like it's just idling. With the scan tool it doesn't show the ICP pressure dropping any before the engine power drops, it's all dropping at the same time. If we have it in park/neutral it'll rev up just fine.

First thing I did was pull the IPR valve out and check the screen. The screen was cracked and pushed into the valve. Replaced that and still had the same problem. I even swapped in another new one just to be sure. Next step I did was get an old harness to make a jumper to close the IPR and put shop air into the HPOS to listen for a leak. I didn't hear any leaks other than a small one coming from the HPOP, but disregarding it seeing as many of the forums speak of a small leak at the HPOP is normal. We didn't check with the valve covers off and used a stethascope(sp?) to listen. After this I concluded it had to be the HPOP not pumping enough pressure for the system.

Pump came in and didn't solve the problem so I was instructed (gotta love the military ways) to order pretty much the rest of the parts that deal with the HPOS except for the turbo and FICM. The turbo we had on the shelf and was the last of the crappy "throw parts at it" troubleshooting. FICM I just swapped as last chance before taking a break from thinking.

For add-ons we have a speed limiter box on it since it's a tow vehicle from Stinar. It's not deeply involved with the truck's electrical system so we can unplug it and not worry. I even tried it to see since I start looking at the simple stuff first.

All my KOEO values are within range as seen on one other forum that I forget to remember.

My ICP Pressure at idle is ~800-900. I can get it to snap up to almost 2500 just in park/neutral and it'll stay there if I keep it throttled up. When test driving it'll get to 2100 before the power loss.

We checked the boots after the reply and they were on snug and in all the way. The rings weren't to one side and the turbo wasn't making them collapse.

A little on how these trucks are ran is that they rarely go above 20MPH their whole life. Mainly restricted to slow speeds and the limiter is set at 35MPH.

This really hurts us at the shop since this slow speeds are not good for the engine and it's mainly these Ford tow vehicles that have the problem and haven't seen a normal A$$ hauler have any problems like this or with the engine at all.

This is as much as I've gone through it and my comrade 455th.

EDIT: Sorry admins that this topic isn't under the 6.0L problem thread. Please move if needed.

Last edited by Imthatguy; 09-30-2010 at 09:16 AM.
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  #7  
Old 09-30-2010, 09:35 AM
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just thinking out loud here, but could a clogged cat cause this?
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Old 09-30-2010, 09:43 AM
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Forgot to add that. We ran it with the exhaust pipe disconnected and eventually removed permanently.

I'm really at a loss with what else it could be. Should start back at square one ignoring all the new parts being new. I'm thinking it may be something very simple like someone replaced an accelerator pedal without it being programmed. We have another truck that has a new FICM, PCM and throttle pedal and won't rev up in any gear, but revs in park/neutral and the wrench light comes on. Something like that may be the culprit with this truck even though I don't get a wrench light.
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Old 09-30-2010, 10:01 AM
Almostdunfukinwidit


 

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Congratulations what you have is an HPOS leak. Track it fix it and you will be good to go
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Old 09-30-2010, 10:16 AM
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Thnx Dave.

I'm sure my coworker will be pleased about that. So it's looking to be maybe a cracked o-ring that's easily overseen? I find it really weird that it would rev fine in park/neutral, but with driving it would make that happen.

One last question. What would be the best modifications for these 6.0s that aren't ran hard and only get the "Driving Ms. Daisy" treatment?
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