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Old 06-13-2010, 03:46 AM
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What will it cost...?

Very soon I will be picking up a low mileage '05 F250. I've been doing a ton of reading on this site and a few others. From what I've been reading there are a few things that can be done to really make this a very reliable engine.
  1. ARP head studs and a new head gasket
  2. EGR delete
  3. Coolant filter
  4. Add gauges I think I am going to go with the Evolution CTS and add the EGT probe

What should I expect to pay for that work to be done? I looks like the head studs are a pretty involved process.

Thanks!

Last edited by bfrank81; 06-13-2010 at 03:59 AM.
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Old 06-14-2010, 06:17 AM
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Know one has any thoughts?
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Old 06-14-2010, 06:41 AM
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I had everhting engine wise in my signature done right at 200,000 miles when my headgaskets failed on a trip.

ARP studs are cheap - they themselves can be had for around $385 - $425 shipped. Check with some of the vendors on here and be sure to shop around - prices vary. Installation is what is expensive. Average you will pay for ARP stud install (or H-11's for that matter - H-11 is an alternative to ARP) is around $2000. Its labor intensive and the ARP's require 245ftlb torque each stud. There are 16 of them. That's a 3' torque wrench and alot of pressure. Up goes the price.

EGR delete you can do for anywhere from $50 (what I did) on up to over $1000 for the kit. All depends what your wallet says. I did the Full EGR Delete DIY found right here with pictures on the forum. Go to 6.0 Mod Help and scroll towards the bottom. I printed this thread out, handed it to my mechanic and $50 later - the work was done. But he was doing a full head gasket job - ARP's, decked heads, magnafluxed, new radiator, oil cooler, EGR delete, new 4" TB exhaust, ICP and the list goes on and on.

Coolant filter I have heard is more useful when the engine is more new then old. Something to do with capturing the sand remaining in the system from the casting of the block or something like that. Plus - a coolant filter only filters a very small portion of your coolant - it draws from the coolant - does not run all the coolant through like an oil or fuel filter. Others would have to chime in here to whether they are really worth it or not. My opinion is no. But thats just my opinion.

Gauges are critical. I wish I did gauges alot sooner then I did. EGT (up to 1500 is all you need - anything over that and your engine is already melting down), Water Temp (used for Coolant Temp but the gauge wont say Coolant Temp thats why you get the gauge that says Water Temp), Oil Temp (anythign over 335* and your oil is coking in the turbo and where ever else it is that hot - think of oil in the frypan - gets too hot it cokes - does the same in your turbo oil passages - plus - oil temp and coolant temp should be within 15-20 degrees of each other or there are problems developing.) Also Boost - keep tabs on whether your overboosting your turbo.

Any other gauges would be Fuel Pressure and then Trans Temp. And if you really have more money with no where to allocate it - short of sending it to me you can get deep dish trans pan, axle covers and a water/meth kit.
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Old 06-14-2010, 07:50 AM
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That is some great information thanks! This truck only has 25k on it which means it's been sitting a lot! Should I hold off on doing anything besides the gauges (Evolution CTS) so I can keep and eye on how everything is working?
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Old 06-14-2010, 09:19 AM
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I've had a 6.0 for a few years and just bought a 06. I would first drive it for a few thousand miles get to know the truck. If you do plan to do studs great. It is not a cheap thing though so be prepared. You will want to do it right the first time. By doing it right you will need a...
A oil cooler rebuild kit
A egr cooler, delete, or welded up cooler
A set of head gaskets. Ford gaskets are ok but for the money the victor reinz gaskets have more sealing material and cost less they are also refered to as black onyx gaskets.
A lot of the gaskets are reusable but with the amount of work to replace them it is cheap to do them while ur there. So add in intake gaskets.
Replacing the injerctor orings and crush washers is a good idea since you will want to sent the heads to a machine shop to check them for cracks and warpage.
Next you will need arp studs. You could go with a stronger stud at about 2x the price but in reality the arps are stronger that the threads that you will screw them into.
You will want to monitor your temps if you to or plan to tune the truck. I personally liked the analog gauges when I bought my first set. Now I wish I had done digital. Not because of quality but with analog gauges I can only monitor egts, trans temp and boost. If I had gone with digital I could check other parameters. I will be investing in a digital set of gauges on the truck I'm currently driving. I will probably keep the pillar analog set up though since I love the look. With the digital though I will be able to watch the ever important ect and eot which SHOULD NEVER BE OVER 15* after the truck is at operation temps.
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Old 06-14-2010, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lubbockguy1979 View Post
I would first drive it for a few thousand miles get to know the truck.
That's some great advice.

If I wanted to put a TB 5" MBRP exhaust on the truck and one of the basic mild SCT tunes do I need to do the studs / ERG delete first or can that come later?

Is there anything special I need to consider or keep and eye on because this is a low mileage truck?
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Old 06-14-2010, 09:43 AM
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Every truck is different. You may go 200k tuned and not have a issue or blow the gaskets stock. I think it is something that will happen the question though is when will it happen. Tuning just makes for a larger risk over stock. As far as exhausts go a 5" is a over kill on a daily driver. If you want the sound go for it. I personally would go with a stock sized straight pipe with no/ gutted cat and a muff delete. That will be the most cost effective way to drop egts. A 4" system is nice but with a stock sized straight pipe you will be cheaper with pretty close to the same benifit egt wise and they are not that loud with out a resonator tip.
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Old 06-14-2010, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Lubbockguy1979 View Post
As far as exhausts go a 5" is a over kill on a daily driver. If you want the sound go for it.
After spending an hour or so cruising through youtube I was thinking the 5" because the sound was great. I want it to be deep and rumbley not loud and raspy and it sounded like the 5" MBRP w/ cat delete and leave the straight through muffler achieved that. If I am way off base please let me know.
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Old 06-14-2010, 10:30 AM
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One thing you may want to remember is this diesel game your getting into costs a lot of money. If you start moding your truck remember your going to have to stay up on it. My suggestion is drive the truck stock and see how she treats you. Exhaust, gauges and high quality fluids will take you a long way. Stock these trucks have good power. Also, i hear a lot about EGT's and turbo temps while running but not to many people remind others to let your turbo cool down before you turn your truck off. Good luck have fun with it.
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