7 pin FICM test/repair procedure - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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  #1  
Old 05-28-2010, 04:44 AM
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7 pin FICM test/repair procedure

Does anyone know where i can find a test/repair procedure for a 7 pin FICM?

Thanks, Ben
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Old 05-28-2010, 05:05 AM
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it is the same as the 4 screw except to test you use the top right (closest to fire wall) screw to test your 48 volts. when you split it everything is the same except placement of the little resistors but if you look at the pictures you can easily find them because of the writing on them. When you are looking for them, remember they are REALLY small maybe an 1/8 inch in size. Hope this helps. Good luck, I did mine (7 screw) and it came out just fine and saved me the cost of a new one.
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Old 05-28-2010, 05:39 AM
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I just tested mine yesterday on a 6.0 L ford. The directions for testing a 4 pin are all the same but instead of test the bottom pin nearest fender as they say to do, you want the top pin in the row of 4. Do not touch the side with the test lead, but place one on that pin and the other to ground you should have a minimum of 45 Volts. If you do the FICM does not need the repair mentioned else where on this website. It may still need to be reflashed!
Greg
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Old 05-28-2010, 07:57 AM
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Ok good deal thanks guys, mine had about 47.7 volts.
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Old 05-28-2010, 09:02 AM
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you need to check it while starting, and running, and while under a load as well
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Old 05-29-2010, 09:16 AM
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If the truck won't start how do you test it running. And does it require 45 V or more while cranking, I presume.
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Old 05-30-2010, 09:54 AM
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I dont see where you said the truck would not start in the past threads. Are you having an issue with the truck? your first post was just that you wanted info on testing the 7 pin FICM. If the truck wont start post up what is going on, what happend last and what you have done. Dont forget year of truck
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Old 06-25-2010, 09:35 PM
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My 2004 F350 started running rough when cold then after 2 months later would only start after the block heater was used. A few weeks later it was in a no start condition. I was getting ready for a major repair until I found this thread. Removed the module and re-soldered one of the four transistors and found one was loose. It started up but only gave me 28.8 volts while running. Tomorrow I'll try the complete resistor repair that was mentioned here. Thank you all!
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Old 08-28-2010, 01:37 PM
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were you throwing any codes at all, im getting a p1379 i believe, i havent tested it yet as my truck only cranks no start
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Old 08-13-2011, 04:00 PM
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big thanks for this thread!!

truck started running rough and missing really bad, spitting and sputtering when cold, and no power. after warmed up, it ran better but still had a noticeable miss, and hesitation during acceleration and cruising.

I have the 7 pin ficm, so i followed the directions on this thread and the 4pin directions.

found 52v with key on, 52v while cranking, and 25v when running

so time to dig into the ficm.

i removed the 2 screws for the overflow bottle, but did not remove it completely, i found enough room without having too.

split the case and inspected, at first glance couldnt see anything wrong. got the heat gun out to heat up the amber gel around the screws. 5 seconds on low with the heat gun was enough to remove it. sure enough as i peeled some of the gel off one of the resistors came with it!!

so i continued on. first i re soldered the resistor that fell off on, then added more solder to the other the 3, the i also added more solder to the backside of the board as mentioned in the repair procedure.

lightly rubbed the 7 holes the pins go through, and slapped the case back together.

re tested and 52v across the board!!

bolted everything back together and up the street for a test run!! running like brand new!!

took me maybe 2 hrs for the hole procedure! thank you thank you thank you!!

SO in fixing this, my only questions are:

what causes the ficm to go bad, and how long does this repair usually last?
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