105k mile service - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 03-11-2010, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
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105k mile service

I was checking my owner's manual this afternoon as I'll be rolling up on the 105k mile service in about a month. The oil/filter is no problem, and the fuel filters looks simple enough - I read the article posted here.

However it also lists a coolant change and for some reason I've never done that on any of my vehicles. What's involved? Is it just removing a plug, letting it drain, then refilling? The manual just says change, not flush, so I assume it's not necessary to push any fluid through it prior to the final fill. What do you do with your used coolant? I take my oil to the local tractor dealer because they use it to run their shop heater in the winter.

It also says to lube the front end, steering linkages, u-joints, driveshafts, etc. Are the grease zerks easy to get to? Anything that's hidden from view? I've keep a general automotive grade grease in my gun that I assume will work fine for this stuff...

I bought the truck used a little while ago and this will be the first service I've done to it.

Thanks,

John

2004 F-250 Super Crew King Ranch, White with Gold Two-Tone
6.0L Powerstroke, 4X4, FX4, Camper Package, Short Bed
102,000 miles and counting
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post #2 of 9 Old 03-11-2010, 02:02 PM
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Have u not changed the fuel filter in 105k?

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post #3 of 9 Old 03-11-2010, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
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Bought the truck used with a little over 91,000 miles. The dealer changed it (and the oil) before I picked it up. I changed the oil around 97k, and I'm getting ready to do the 105k mile service at more like 103k miles.

2004 F-250 Super Crew King Ranch, White with Gold Two-Tone
6.0L Powerstroke, 4X4, FX4, Camper Package, Short Bed
102,000 miles and counting
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post #4 of 9 Old 03-11-2010, 02:20 PM
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OK, jus checking...

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post #5 of 9 Old 03-12-2010, 08:11 AM
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Drain the radiator and the engine block. Fill with distilled water and run it for a bit to get it circulating good. Drain the radiator and engine block again. Fill it back up with a 50/50 mix of appropriate antifreeze. Some people get fanatical on the flush and run several passes with distilled water til it comes out clear. I don't believe that is needed.
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post #6 of 9 Old 03-12-2010, 04:59 PM
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there are zerk fittings on the 2 front u-joints right where the wheels pivot. if you cant see them just spin it with your hand.

Get the trans fluid changed. Do it with ford, they have the entire trans fluid replaced.

change the transfer case oil, it is simple
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post #7 of 9 Old 03-12-2010, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks a bunch guys.

2004 F-250 Super Crew King Ranch, White with Gold Two-Tone
6.0L Powerstroke, 4X4, FX4, Camper Package, Short Bed
102,000 miles and counting
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post #8 of 9 Old 03-12-2010, 08:13 PM
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If you don't want to do the "fanatical" flush with detergent and iron block cleaner, do as listed above and run some water through it and refill with the correct fluid. But if you just do that, at least add a coolant filter. It's cheap insurance as dirty coolant causes most of the MAJOR problems with these trucks alot of the time. Keep those Nitrite levels right with Motorcraft VC-8 or Fleetguard DCA4 using Fleetguard test strips to keep the cavitation down.
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post #9 of 9 Old 03-13-2010, 06:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Banshee365 View Post
If you don't want to do the "fanatical" flush with detergent and iron block cleaner, do as listed above and run some water through it and refill with the correct fluid. But if you just do that, at least add a coolant filter. It's cheap insurance as dirty coolant causes most of the MAJOR problems with these trucks alot of the time. Keep those Nitrite levels right with Motorcraft VC-8 or Fleetguard DCA4 using Fleetguard test strips to keep the cavitation down.
http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...ROD&ProdID=324 $119

Im on the road of making one my self for cheaper. This takes alot longer to find all the information but to me it is worth the savings
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