Do it yourself not to hard
i concur, and if you do either get a tube you can put on the end of the bottle or some kind of fluid pump for doing the transfer case.
i'd do both axles and tansfer case, tranny that's your call if you wanna do it yourself
for the transfer case there are two plugs, remove the lower plug and i removed the upper to get the fluid out faster. once it's drained put the lower plug back in and fill it up till its at the level with upper plug hole, should just start to ooze out of the hole and then put the plug back in and it's good.
for the front and rear diff. remove the bolts on the lower half of the diff cover and loosen the bolts on the top half and then pull the cover away from the housing at the bottom letting the old diff lube drain out. once it's drained remove the cover and clean it up the a little bit. you'll have to peal the old sealant off the cover and then just reapply black RTV sealant to the mounting surface of the cover. then put the cover back on and tighten it down. once the cover is re-installed just fill it up with the fluid till it oozes out of the fill hole.
a side note, if you have a limited slip rear end you will need to add 4oz. of friction modifier additive to your lube in the rear end
for the transfer case, it just uses regular old ATF and it calls for 2.0 quarts
the front diff calls for 2.7L of 75w90 and the rear diff calls for 3.3L of 75w140
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2008 F250 Lariat CC/SB 4X4
COBRA 29LX, Firestiks, Ranch Hands, AmsOil EABP90 bypass filter x 2, Flo-Pro 5" stainless w/ DEI wrapped 4" downpipe, S&B CAI, SCT LiveWire
To install still-AutoMeter 60psi boost gauge, AeroForce Interceptor scan gauge, Flo-Pro EGR delete with stainless elbow with custom welded 1/8 NPT bung, racor ccv4500
***BEATER***1976 F100 Ranger