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Which Batteries to get??

78K views 47 replies 25 participants last post by  jjohnsonlta  
#1 ·
Pretty sure my batteries have kicked the bucket since it’s the second day with it being generally cold in the morning and my truck cranks till it dies.. so since I probably need some today which batteries should I go with???
 
#3 ·
I have used costco twice now. They used to offer a kirkland brand but have since partnered with interstate. They offer a great full replacement warranty up to 4 years, i believe, don't quote me on that exact time. I was like a few months past that when mine went out but with the prorate I ended up only paying for 3/4's of a battery and getting 2 new ones. The pricing isn't too bad either.
 
#9 ·
Rural king carries Interstate and beats every place on price in the Cincinnati area...just sayin' in case Rural king is in your area.
 
#10 ·
36 months is as long as I've gotten out of the batteries I've run. Motorcraft and Caterpillar. Last month I choked and shoveled out right around $600 for (2) X2 Extremes at Batteries Plus. They carry a 60 month free replacement warranty. 1st thing I noticed was they are much heavier than the Caterpillar batteries. Next thing is the truck sounds like it's gonna twist up it turns over so fast. I don't know for how long. We'll see.

k
 
#11 ·
Just bought new batteries last weekend. Best deal i could find that had good reviews from people were the Interstate batteries Costco sales. They are 850CC and at 92$ a piece their hard to beat in price.
 
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#14 ·
Just to join in, SuperStart batteries at O'reillys are Deka's.
 
#19 ·
I went with the black interstate batteries, less than two years and they aren’t holding a charge.

Granted the truck sits for weeks on end. Even more so now with winter coming and driving the winter beater more.

But even during the warmer months, it might only get a few trips into town, don’t think they are getting recharged.

Gonna have to look into these AGMs and how to regulate the alternator. Wondering if an overdrive pulley would help.


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#21 ·
Small pulley helps with idle output but don't forget the alt is spinning faster all the time with them.

I would disconnect each battery and test them to make sure one is not bad. One bad battery will drain the other in a hurry.

If they check out you have either a charge issue or a draw when parked. Test the output voltage yet ?


As far as " JUST BATTERIES" these trucks live off of power and batteries. They are extremely important.
 
#25 ·
Yea that stinks I like the cool gray color of them lol. . . .


But they can still be bought from Odyssey directly but they are red I think. That is who made them for Sears.
 
#27 ·
Ive see the solar panels you stick on the roof and wire down to a battery. Those work well and you just roll them up and toss in the back seat.
 
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#29 ·
Those Die Hard batteries where awesome, wonder why the quit making them. I had them in my boat and when I did the research everyone and their mom seemed to love them!

I had to replace the original motorcraft batteries in my 2012 a few months back and I was disappointed to find out the die hards are no longer available.

I did find these X2 Power Premium AGM batteries from Batteries plus, they seem to have really good feedback so far. We will see how long they last.

On a side not I wasn't aware of the voltage issue with AGM batteries I must look into this now asap thanks for the tip!
 
#30 ·
On a side not I wasn't aware of the voltage issue with AGM batteries I must look into this now asap thanks for the tip!


Did you find out anything about the voltage regulation or how to do it on these trucks? Did some searching on AGM the other day and kept getting some contradicting information on needing voltage regulated.

On a side note, put a meter on the truck tonight since it’s kinda warm in the 50s. 12.09v on batteries before starting, 11.88 at idle for several minutes. 11.97 from back of the Alt to ground. Batt voltage jumps with revs. 2k revs were seeing mid 13s. But back at idle, 11.88.

After I shut the truck down and was putting the booty back on the alt connector, noticed the alternator was super toasty. Kinda leaning towards needing a new alternator.
 
#31 ·
Um yea if your seeing 11.8 at idle there is a little problem.

The OEM alts blow. If you do have AGM batteries you want to get a 14.3 max voltage output regulator in that alternator.

You can give Ed at ficmrepair.com a call he will give you all the info you could ever need about AGM batteries and whats best for them.
 
#33 ·
I'd check the grounds. If I'm reading you right, the voltage is 11.97 at the alternator and 11.97 at the battery is 11.88. The alternator could be loosely attached, The alternator intake mating piece could be corroded or covered with gunk, the cables to the batteries corroded, or the frame ground corroded. Although only .09 VDC off, mine is .01 VDC off at those points. I don't doubt you still need an alternator and or batteries.

I was considering getting virgin lead batteries https://www.amazon.com/Odyssey-65-P...ie=UTF8&qid=1511566791&sr=1-2-fkmr1&keywords=odyssey+battery+ford+2005+f250+6.0 but the price was twice what I got the Duramx Golds from Autozone.

IMO a solar charger or trickle charger let's you keep the batteries a few months longer after they go bad. I have a solar trickle charger, the solargizer, and when I parked outside, I let the truck sit six months and it fired right up on the first try, so they work. I've also stored a vehicle for two years with the cables disconnected, and it started up on the first try.
 
#35 ·
Those batteries ROCK !!!

Those are the exact batteries I have in my truck that I bought from Sears. Mine are a nicer color for sure though I hate to say. Die Hards were gray and mine are 4-1/2 years old right now. Starter still sounds like its on steroids.

I looked to see what Sears has for our F250 today and the answer is nothing. You will be bedazzled with those Chris.


As far as his alternator situation I would yank that pile of worthless crap off so fast your head would spin. Ed sells a battery cable upgrade kit for these trucks that adds a power line from alternator to d/s battery. Along with two more grounds and a 4/0 cable between the batteries.

A guy can do it himself though by getting cables at a parts house or making your own. I upgraded my truck myself with all 2/0 cables and a additional three 4 gauge supplemental grounds to frame body engine for each battery. I have a 270XP DC Power alt in my truck to feed stereo and truck.
With that 270 amp I am at 13 volts at startup.
 
#34 ·
Yea you’re following right. But also used the battery ground and found another grounding point under the hood and it read the same off the alt. Which I thought was weird, because it was the passenger side where the alternator cable ends up anyways

The intake is a new Odawgs installed earlier this year.

Grounds will be next just to check, wondering now if I loosened one of them up when I had it all apart.


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#36 ·
Yea you’re following right. But also used the battery ground and found another grounding point under the hood and it read the same off the alt. Which I thought was weird, because it was the passenger side where the alternator cable ends up anyways

The intake is a new Odawgs installed earlier this year.

Grounds will be next just to check, wondering now if I loosened one of them up when I had it all apart.


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#37 ·
I was just looking at the battery cable kits too. Made my own for the ‘99 cummins I had. Went stupid overkill on them

Actually all the stuff is on sale for Black Friday.... go figure.

Seems like they really like to push that smaller pulley for the Leece alternator. Not really super crazy about overdriving something if I don’t have to.




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#38 ·
I went through 2 alternators and 2 sets of batteries in 2 years until I went with a high output alternator. I've been running the high output alternator for a couple of years and it's still pumping out 14.1 volts. It has a larger case and smaller pulley...bolts right on. Here is a link to the guy's youtube video.