EGR bypass or EGR Delete? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 21 Old 12-30-2009, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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EGR bypass or EGR Delete?

My warranty is up soon and I figured I should be looking to get rid of the EGR system on my 06. Since I'm in California and will have to be visiting the smog man soon, which is the best option to go with? I will need it to look stock. I don't mind doing a mod that I can change back in an hour or two, but a complete R&R kit will be to much.

Can I get one of these Ford 6.0 Diesel EGR Eliminator - Spool W/clamps - bolts:eBay Motors (item 280354215158 end time Dec-31-09 06:32:49 PST)

and just leave me EGR valve plugged in and zip tied off to the side or until I get an SCT? And use this in conjuction with an sneaky pipe?

Which kit or option is going to be the best for my situation. I have searched, but not to much about doing this for a California vehicle. I hope I'm not breaking any rules like on another site.

2006 F-250 Lariat C/C, 4x4, 6.0L, 3.73's, loaded, 2.5" leveling kit, 20" XD Series KMC Hoss wheels w/ BFG a/t's, Custom RPM turbo back 4" exhaust w/ 6" tip, zoodad mod., high idle mod., front tint.
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post #2 of 21 Old 12-30-2009, 10:58 AM
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Well the sct you can just go back to stock so thats all good. The cat you can just pop on and off. The egr system you need to have all of it on.

I think the best thing to do is to weld a plug in the egr cooler and i got the flange on the up pipe so I will cut that off. That would be better than doing a plug at the egr valve. If you do the valve then the exhaust will still hit the cooler, thats not good. They can just look and see the valve and that would be a fail. The sneeky pipe is good also, just more $. Im in cal too so I just got the sct and will eventualy be pluging the cooler and cutting the flang.

Last edited by smokersteve; 12-30-2009 at 11:02 AM.
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post #3 of 21 Old 12-30-2009, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by smokersteve View Post
Well the sct you can just go back to stock so thats all good. The cat you can just pop on and off. The egr system you need to have all of it on.

I think the best thing to do is to weld a plug in the egr cooler and i got the flange on the up pipe so I will cut that off. That would be better than doing a plug at the egr valve. If you do the valve then the exhaust will still hit the cooler, thats not good. They can just look and see the valve and that would be a fail. The sneeky pipe is good also, just more $. Im in cal too so I just got the sct and will eventualy be pluging the cooler and cutting the flang.
Thanks for the reply. If I did a sneaky pipe and EGR Plug would that stop the gases from entering the cooler? or is welding up the cooler the only way to stop them from entering? I guess I should do some more research on the flow of the the EGR system.

I would take the EGR plug out and reinstall the EGR valve when I have to go to smog, that is easy to do. I am looking for the easiest and cheapest way to stop EGR gases and still look stock or close to stock.

2006 F-250 Lariat C/C, 4x4, 6.0L, 3.73's, loaded, 2.5" leveling kit, 20" XD Series KMC Hoss wheels w/ BFG a/t's, Custom RPM turbo back 4" exhaust w/ 6" tip, zoodad mod., high idle mod., front tint.
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post #4 of 21 Old 12-30-2009, 02:22 PM
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Well the exhaust flow is, 2 exhaust manifolds- 2 up pipes-Y pipe-turbo-tail pipe. One of the "up pipes" vents to the cooler, then to the egr valve, then intake.

If you only block the valve, the exhaust will swim arround the cooler, sill puting in heat. if you block the the cooler then the entire system is saved from the exhaust.

Some later models have a scoop on the up pipe that forces exh into the egr system. It covers half the pipe. Its a good idea to cut that.

It is easy and cheep to cut out a metal plate in a circle and weld it on for less than the valve block or sneeky pipe. If you dont have the suplies then get a friend.

^^^^ this is if you dont buy the sneeky pipe.

Its good to get the valve block, but if you are going to decide on only one modificatoin then^^ this is better. If you dont want to do any of the above then get the valve. Some thing is better than nothing.

Here is another option.

Since the egr system and intake are connected, the egr valve block will hold the intake pressure in the intake and the welded cooler will keep the exhaust where it should be. That would be a great set up.

Here is a picture of the scoop at the bottom of the page.

6.0L EGR Components

These 2 links show the flow.
http://www.dan.prxy.org/Truck/6L_bib.../html/TOC.html
http://www.backglass.org/duncan/ps60_manual/

Last edited by smokersteve; 12-30-2009 at 02:42 PM.
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post #5 of 21 Old 12-31-2009, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokersteve View Post
Well the exhaust flow is, 2 exhaust manifolds- 2 up pipes-Y pipe-turbo-tail pipe. One of the "up pipes" vents to the cooler, then to the egr valve, then intake.

If you only block the valve, the exhaust will swim arround the cooler, sill puting in heat. if you block the the cooler then the entire system is saved from the exhaust.

Some later models have a scoop on the up pipe that forces exh into the egr system. It covers half the pipe. Its a good idea to cut that.

It is easy and cheep to cut out a metal plate in a circle and weld it on for less than the valve block or sneeky pipe. If you dont have the suplies then get a friend.

^^^^ this is if you dont buy the sneeky pipe.

Its good to get the valve block, but if you are going to decide on only one modificatoin then^^ this is better. If you dont want to do any of the above then get the valve. Some thing is better than nothing.

Here is another option.

Since the egr system and intake are connected, the egr valve block will hold the intake pressure in the intake and the welded cooler will keep the exhaust where it should be. That would be a great set up.

Here is a picture of the scoop at the bottom of the page.

6.0L EGR Components

These 2 links show the flow.
6.0L Bible Table of Contents
Powerstroke 6.0L Technical Intro Manual
Thanks for the info. So it sounds like removing the up pipe that goes to the cooler and welding that up is the way to go. Along with a EGR block. That would stop all exhaust flow through the system correct?

Now from my understand this may or may not throw a CEL. Could I remove the OEM EGR, but keep in plugged in and zip tied to the side and would that not cause a CEL to come up? Are there other sensors in the cooler that detect EGT's? It wouldn't be good if welding up the pipe to the cooler threw and CEL because that would cause a problem when visiting the smog ref!

Hmmmm...

2006 F-250 Lariat C/C, 4x4, 6.0L, 3.73's, loaded, 2.5" leveling kit, 20" XD Series KMC Hoss wheels w/ BFG a/t's, Custom RPM turbo back 4" exhaust w/ 6" tip, zoodad mod., high idle mod., front tint.
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post #6 of 21 Old 12-31-2009, 10:37 AM
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If you're gonna do it, do it right the first time. Delete the whole thing. Doug at GoGo Diesel makes a great kit, so does Adam (Abrannan19) on here. I'd contact either of them about options.

Performance: SCT Xcal-Innovative Diesel, 4" Turbo Back Exhaust no muffler and kitty missing, Spearco IC, ID Power Elbow, AFe Stg. II Intake, 03 Turbo.
Exhaust Clip:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mYF9HgB0RwY

Looks: Westin Black Powder Coated Bull Bar, Recon Smoked Cab, Mirror Lights, and 3rd Brake Light, 4" Superlift kit, 35" ProComp Extreme A/T's, 18x10 Diamo Black & Chrome Rims.
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post #7 of 21 Old 12-31-2009, 10:42 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by !!!PainTrain!!! View Post
If you're gonna do it, do it right the first time. Delete the whole thing. Doug at GoGo Diesel makes a great kit, so does Adam (Abrannan19) on here. I'd contact either of them about options.
I would love to remove it all at once, but I have to or will have to pass a visual inspection in the coming year. I don't want to have to remove it then reinstall it just to pass a visual inspection. From what I understand it can take up to 8 hours to do the procedure and that is to much work.

Any other sneaky ways to do this? I don't mind installing a few things to get back to stock, but no an entire system.

2006 F-250 Lariat C/C, 4x4, 6.0L, 3.73's, loaded, 2.5" leveling kit, 20" XD Series KMC Hoss wheels w/ BFG a/t's, Custom RPM turbo back 4" exhaust w/ 6" tip, zoodad mod., high idle mod., front tint.
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post #8 of 21 Old 12-31-2009, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trbotime View Post
I would love to remove it all at once, but I have to or will have to pass a visual inspection in the coming year. I don't want to have to remove it then reinstall it just to pass a visual inspection. From what I understand it can take up to 8 hours to do the procedure and that is to much work.

Any other sneaky ways to do this? I don't mind installing a few things to get back to stock, but no an entire system.
I'm fairly sure that both of those individuals can leave the EGR Valve Housing in place on the manifold. That way anyone looking at it would not easily be able to see that it has been deleted.

Performance: SCT Xcal-Innovative Diesel, 4" Turbo Back Exhaust no muffler and kitty missing, Spearco IC, ID Power Elbow, AFe Stg. II Intake, 03 Turbo.
Exhaust Clip:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mYF9HgB0RwY

Looks: Westin Black Powder Coated Bull Bar, Recon Smoked Cab, Mirror Lights, and 3rd Brake Light, 4" Superlift kit, 35" ProComp Extreme A/T's, 18x10 Diamo Black & Chrome Rims.
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post #9 of 21 Old 12-31-2009, 11:42 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by !!!PainTrain!!! View Post
I'm fairly sure that both of those individuals can leave the EGR Valve Housing in place on the manifold. That way anyone looking at it would not easily be able to see that it has been deleted.
I'll hit them up to see what they say about my options. Thanks for the info!

2006 F-250 Lariat C/C, 4x4, 6.0L, 3.73's, loaded, 2.5" leveling kit, 20" XD Series KMC Hoss wheels w/ BFG a/t's, Custom RPM turbo back 4" exhaust w/ 6" tip, zoodad mod., high idle mod., front tint.
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post #10 of 21 Old 12-31-2009, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Trbotime View Post
Thanks for the info. So it sounds like removing the up pipe that goes to the cooler and welding that up is the way to go. Along with a EGR block. That would stop all exhaust flow through the system correct?

Now from my understand this may or may not throw a CEL. Could I remove the OEM EGR, but keep in plugged in and zip tied to the side and would that not cause a CEL to come up? Are there other sensors in the cooler that detect EGT's? It wouldn't be good if welding up the pipe to the cooler threw and CEL because that would cause a problem when visiting the smog ref!

Hmmmm...
Ya if you zip tie the egr valve you wont throw a code, and have the valve plug in place of it will work.

I dont know if it will thro a code for exhaust flow but you can try the egr valve block and see if it will throw a code. If not then GET GOING ON THAT COOLER BLOCK OFF PLATE.



if you delete the system in cal you wont pass the inspection
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