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New Exhaust... its about time.
Just pulled my factory 3" and swapped it for a Diamond Eye 4" downtube from Diesel Performance: Discount Truck Accessories & Performance Parts, Buy Chevy, GM, Dodge & Ford Truck Parts, Air Intake Filters & Exhaust Systems, Fuel Tanks, Mounts, Gauges & Injectors Online It then goes through a 4.5" BD exhaust brake and then into 5" and dumps just in front of the left rear tire. Don't let anyone tell you that a straight pipe on 6.0 doesn't sound F*****G AWESOME! 'Cause it does...
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post up a vid of how it sounds !!!!!! ............was it hard to do ???
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how did you go about installing the down pipe? alot of cussing and just push it up or did you drop the transmission?
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I will have to figure out how to post a video, but in the mean time I will post more pics. The hardest part is getting the down tube in. I came up from the bottom and manipulated it in a couple of different configurations before I found one that was close. I put a scrap piece of sheet metal on the fire wall insulation to protect it from the turbo flange on the way up. With a friend up top guiding and pulling, me down below pushing, it popped in. I clamped it loose on to the turbo and test fit the lower portion of the tube. If you notice in the photo I modified the flange between the upper and lower tubes. Instead of using the flare flange it came with, I picked up an awesome 4" VBK clamp from Exhaust Components - SPD Home Page B, they make some sick exhaust parts. This made a world of difference for clearance between the firewall and frame. Once it was mocked up I welded everything solid. The funny thing is that when my buddy went to take the down tube out he said he disconnected it and it fell right out to the ground, go figure... It ended up with a close 3/8" off of the firewall at the bend, so I wrapped the whole thing in header wrap to keep it cool( I would definitely recommend it). On the way back in on the other hand, not so easy. There are two spots that make it tight (adding 1/8'' to a 1/4" of header wrap doesn't help matters) one is the "y" pipe slip joint bellow, and a 1/4" x 1" bolt coming out of the firewall. The bolt can be cut off almost flush with the firewall and covered with a few layers of aluminum tape to help it slide. And a few layers of aluminum tape on the "y" pipe bellows helps too. Once again I used sheet metal on the firewall, and with a good nudge it popped in. Make sure you reach in and remove ALL of the aluminum tape off of the "y" pipe so it doesn't burn. I then connected every thing loosely, adjusted the clearance, tightened every thing down and continued with the rest of the exhaust. No, I didn't drop the transmission, but I did Sawsall out the factory downtube.
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if you drop the transmission it opens up the hole for the down pipe.
what kind of clearance do you have between the valve cover and the down pipe right after the turbo ? i hope to get a 3.5 some time soon it to tight of a fit for my liking but it does sound good. i have a muffler on mine very quite intill you pass 3000rpm that it wakes up. did you notice a increase in boost i? mine went from 32 up to 35-36lbs all i did was install the 4in turbo back with the cat delete pipe |
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Hey man, the clearance to the valve cover is 1 3/4" and 1/2" to the valve cover bolt with the 4". If you are looking for a 3.5", I have an MBRP down tube in stainless steal that goes into 4" at the cat. I was just about to put it up for sale, but if your interested make me an offer. It also has a bung near the turbo flange for a pyrometer.
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