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Leece nevile alt

6K views 44 replies 10 participants last post by  ZMANN 
#1 ·
I'm installing a leece neville alternator tomorrow and I think I read once that it needs some spacer, how do I make sure and what spacer, washers?
 
#3 ·
It should only need spacers if you went with the overdrive (smaller) pulley and even then it may not need them. Kinda depends on the strength of your tensioner. I've got about 1/4" of washers under mine and it still chirps at shutdown. Planning on picking up some 1/2" spacers at some point, but it's not on the top of my list. It doesn't slip while running, just chirps at shutdown. I assume it's slipping just a grunt on the water pump pulley when everything else stops abruptly.
 
#4 · (Edited)
No need for a spacer as it's bosses are already lengthened for the body diameter change. It's why Prestolite includes longer bolts with the unit.

With the stock pulley the increased height can make the belt tight so it bearly goes on, with the smaller diameter pulley it brings the tensioner to the same relative position as the 110a and stock pulley configuration, measured on my vehicle.
 
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#6 ·
No need for a spacer as it's bosses are already lengthened for the body diameter change. It's why Prestolite includes longer bolts with the unit.

With the stock pulley the increased height can make the belt tight so it bearly goes on with the '03 belt, with the smaller diameter pulley it brings the tensioner to the same position as the 110a and stock pulley configuration, measured on my vehicle.
Mine is an 07, won't be able to upgrade the factory wiring before our trip next week, is that OK, don't want to mess up anything, I don't have anything demanding as everything is factory.
 
#5 ·
I was basing my post on my experience with the DCPower 185 amp alt and the small pulley. I should have mentioned that. I didn't now that the LN had longer bosses. You learn something new every day.
 
#11 · (Edited)
No problem, I understand. I've played with this L-N more then a normal person should.

They were designed specifically to fit the 6.0/VT365 in commercial applications.
 
#7 ·
right or wrong or maybe it doesn't make a difference ?
here is my take

IIRC my DC power 185 ( large case Ford 6G ) and Leece Neville
measured out the same in a side by side .

I had DC supplied 3/8 thick washers on the DC so when I swapped i also re used the washers.

but I imagine if they were necessary LN would ship them with their optional bolt kits?.

I run the small pulley and also figured extra belt tension and extra case clearance couldn't hurt cooling.

my OEM belt fit without issues.

I have read that it is a good idea to check the alt clearance at the bottom of the cradle using the business card trick
since some cradle castings may interfere

maybe you could post back with what you find there?.

my opinion of the LN

I don't like the LN battery lug location as it is right at my steel CAC pipe. so i just sourced a relocation lug yours may not have the same issue as I have some extra lines back there that may push the CAC forward

my LN as really seemed to drop output in this insane heat .
 
#9 ·
I'm doing a few things before tackling the alternator but I'm going to check for clearance and report back, want to make sure before I replace it, is there any issue if I don't upgrade the wiring for now, I'll be putting about 2k miles in the next trip.
 
#10 · (Edited)
I've flipped that alternator several times on my truck for a video, it's an easy install.

The stock 4ga/2x 12ga fusible links are good for about 200a, but at that level your starting to get some voltage drop you don't want. At idle with a stock pulley it will generate about 180a, if the smaller pulley 210a, blip the throttle under either conditions and you'll get the full 230a and risk the fusible links if your in a high demand situation.

So you really to lay a parallel cable with it. I've paralleled as small as 8ga which tested fine, but a 4ga 30" cable parallels the lay of the stock cable and voltage drop at full output is in the hundreds of a volt, so larger cables only decrease the size of your wallet. The connections have a higher resistance and voltage drop then the cable. But you also need protection. The stock cable uses two fusible links of about 100a each, so you only need a fuse assembly of another 100a. Marine grade cable that won't corrode is best. You should also protect the cable with some sleeving, just as Ford does.

I think the '07 alternator may be clocked different, more to the vehicle center then 12 o'clock on my '03.
 
#13 ·
I have been running a Leece for over a year now. No spacers. The only thing I have done is parallel the batteries two marine grade 2/0 cables. No other wiring upgrades. No issues.
 
#18 ·
I went from a 185 to a LN 230
it is much better at start up idle when the GP's are on but when it is hot it is not that impressive even with the small pulley
it is running under 13.7

i will probably get a DC billet unit later on and be done with it
 
#23 ·
I think you're talking about the adapter plug, in case your wiring harness has a different style plug. I didn't need it for my 2006.

I run the LN with 1/0 everywhere. Used OD pulley, no spacers, used the provided longer bolts.

If your batteries don't have a 200+ amp demand on them before you change your wiring you won't have a problem.. since the alternator isn't putting out full-amperage all the time. But that said, I wouldn't risk it. Not at least with an additional run of wire from the Alt to the Pass battery (+), I don't think you'll cook the ground-side of the circuit through the block... but you're still risking a meltdown.

My LN sits at 12.8 not long after startup, goes to 13.6 charging voltage for a minute or so, and settles at 13.3-13.4 (in 110deg+).
 
#22 ·
You guys do realize that SAE recommended and battery manufacturers have recommended that voltage regulators reduce voltage output when underhood temps elevate so the batteries don't overcharge? Hot 13.6 to 13.8 is where they should be. Especially true with AGMs.
 
#26 ·
Keep us posted maybe mine is a POS
mine ran at 13.2-13-5 all the way home today ambient was probably 112 underhood was higher of course


My DC power would drop .1-.2 volts when it was hot but this is dropping whole volts LOL

these are not smart voltage regulators and are not PCM regulated
if there dropping volts it isn't by design IMO
 
#29 ·
I would interpret that a different way, and mind you this is me entirely making stuff up.. and I know just enough about these things to be dangerous...

But I would say the greater-drop in voltage from the higher amperage alternator is just saying that the "better" alternator is able to provide the required charging amperage at a lower voltage, whereas a "lesser" alternator will need to sit at high 13's or even 14 to put the required current back into the battery(s).

If an alternator was ALWAYS at, say, 14.4+ volts I think it would cook itself, and the battery(s) in the system would be toast.

Maybe?:dunno::look:
 
#30 ·
the thing is running the AC full bore and the stereo plus another circulating fan the voltage was lower than i have seen with the OEM or DC 185

but as soon as I shut it all off it as i was driving it came up .2 volts to 13.5

it's just not what I am used to seeing
even my tahoe with dual AC and an 1 AGM using a crappy Delco 130 amp alternator sits at 14.1

my cables are new and batteries test fine truck starts good
 
#32 ·
Well if you guys need it I can pull up the Ford and industry info, but OE regulators are thermal compensating.

Zmann you may have an alt issue, or maybe wiring. From the work I've done on the SD's electrical system, many trucks get a little funky in age, and Ford did some unsettling things in my view for the 6.0 compared to even the 7.3 had. Our trucks do under report through the OBD port compared to off alternator.

Here a non-published vid I did about 18 months ago when I was playing around with some testing and changes. Not the typical heavy cable stuff sold on-line or the common things. Going to be boring as I was trying to show consistency in voltage. The first two minutes are at startup in the morning, and the alternator is the LN 230a. Part of the objective was to get my FICM voltage up, but as I guess you know the problem with that channel is it reports in 0.5v increments, so a 13.49999v reports as 13.0v. It also was done to show the consistency of the OBD to the powerport.

After 2 minutes is the reading in the evening after a day of running. However this also includes me turning on all the electrical components in the vehicle. Anyway, how my truck responds with the LN 230a.

The vid is private, so it doesn't show up on a search.

 
#34 · (Edited)
I was wrong, that one was public.

To show what is showing at the alternator, this vid is from under the hood. Same thing, cold morning. You'll notice that the glow plugs cut out real early. That's because the BERU supplied GPCM is designed to shut down the circuit if supplied voltage is over 14.4v, and it is with the LN. With the older 7.3 glow plugs could burn off the tips from over voltage so they were trying to avoid that situation.

Anyway, the point is to show the difference between voltage at the alternator/battery vs reported volts off the OBD port.

This one is private. LN 230a, small pulley, amps jump to 195 supplying GP, batts and system.

 
#36 ·
I was summoned. I wish that I could help, but I cannot. ...and that's not just the Stone Brewing Company wootStout talking...

It's a mess. Too low or too high and you get bad charging. ...but too high or too low and permanent battery damage results. ...which affects the charging.

I'd rather try to make sense of airline pricing. ...or the sustainability of liberal economic policies.
 
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#39 ·
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