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Fixur6.com Back flush valve

20K views 44 replies 17 participants last post by  SparkyF250 
#1 ·
Does anyone have the fixur6 backflush valve kit? I just purchased it, I pretty positive my oil cooler is clogged and was thinking of giving this a try before I swap a new OEM one in.
 
#4 ·
Works great, definitely lowered my temps and got ALOT of junk out of my cooler. I still need to make an adapter to hook up an air compressor with the garden hose to up the pressure.
 
#11 ·
How are your temps holding up? I'm considering giving this a shot before I pull the trigger on replacing the cooler. I may go with a different contraption but I just curious as to how everything's holding up since the backflush? Thanks!
 
#5 ·
Wish I had learned about this when I had my 6.0s lol... the whole backflushing thing came into plat a couple years after I went diesel free. I ended up getting a 7.3l which I still love, just took some time to get used too. Thanks for the info. Its a nice little kit if you don't have the coin for the bulletproof air cooled kit.
 
#6 ·
$175 plus the price of fittings, is kinda steep IMO. I can see the allure of once installed, it's faster by removing the cap and start flushing, but it only takes me 1/2hr to remove the factory cap so I can back flush.

I flush once every two years, not from silica, but from iron scale slowly clogging the oil cooler.

Hose fitting, ball valve, threaded tubing from a grease gun, 90* elbow, and nipple. Use a rubber washer to seal against oil cooler. Less than $20.



 
#7 ·
Yes it's not cheap but once installed it makes life easy. Also it routes all the water through the oil cooler with it's isolation valve. I hook the hose to my tankless hot water and run it for 30 minutes. When the oil cooler gets to 120 deg I switch to cold water to shock it and knock the crap loose. My cruising delta decreased 11 to 5 degrees.
 
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#8 ·
I doubt I'll ever have to backflush again, but if I do, I'll just pull the hose off the coolant filter, attach a hose and start flushing. Since I'm filtering pre-cooler now, I don't think it will ever be needed. Granted, the VK688 kit was a bit more than $175, but I no longer dread backflushing or even changing the cooler if I need to.
 
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#9 ·
I have this job ahead of me. I'm trying to see if I can avoid a cooler replacement, or at least push it back until I get moved to our new house.
I would LOVE to see those photos , but I'm not paying $40 bucks a month to Photo bucket. Any chance you could PM them to me? Thanks
 
#13 ·
I would go with the IPR Research coolant filter with the manifold. It's the best filter setup out there and makes it simple to back flush. You simply remove the hose from the filter and away you go. This is what I'm running on my truck now, I knocked my delta back to 6*- 8* and by the time I actually need to change my oil cooler, my coolant system will be clean enough that I won't have any worries of the new one clogging. You'll have to google IPR Research, (SKU: CF604731) don't wast extra $$ for the ball valves. If you mount it right it doesn't leak when you clean the filter. Since they're not a site sponsor and I can't post the link.

Try imgur.com free pic hosting. here's my filter setup coming out of the oil cooler where that valve they're talking about mounts.
 
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#10 · (Edited)
#15 ·
Sure a lot of nice pictures in these threads these days.

This place has lost so much info from those jack wads.
 
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#18 ·
I jus got my ipr manifold in. plan on getting the filter later jus didn't have the coin right now. It looks like a good set up. Do u kno of anyway to filter they coolant before it goes in the oiler cooler instead of after. Sorry far the hi-jack.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 
#19 ·
Getting back to the sort of original topic, I'm making my own adapter, and would like some thoughts on backflushing, then just filling the system with water, run the engine a bit to circulate, and then repeat several times without having to fill with coolant until I'm satisfied I've got everything I can get out of it.
 
#28 ·
Thanks for the info! Check out this link and tell me if you think I oughta throw a few aspirin into the system with Dawn and Cascade.
If what they are saying is true, the aspirin oughta dissolve the silicates in the oil cooler.

Well ok I can't send links...Google "How To Dissolve Silicate" and tell me what you think
 
#21 ·
I checked out that IPR coolant filter setup on their website. Is it really worth TWICE what the blue one costs? I really need to install one, but other than the part that the filter screws into, it ain't rocket science! I have heard the blue one tends to leak at the fittings, but still at half the price......
 
#23 ·
Yes. There is no other option for a full flow filter short of building and testing something yourself. Should it be cheaper? Probably, but at the same time is all about supply and demand. IPR has the supply so they can demand pretty much whatever they want.
 
#26 ·
Thanks a lot for the replies! My head has been swimming over this issue and it's hard to tell who you should trust, but I always get great info here. I didn't realize the cheaper one didn't filter ALL the coolant. That alone is worth 4X the cost as mhatlen so emphatically pointed out! I'm just trying to be careful with the money because the wife wasn't (still isn't) in favor of the truck purchase and now that I have a problem 3 months later makes it even worse! Thanks everyone!
 
#27 ·
instead of dual 5/8 y strainers ( good idea ) you can use a larger strainer and use a reducer bushing to adapt down to 5/8

this will give you a greater volume and the y strainers are fast and easy to check and clean

check out dudadiesel.com they sell them for Bio fuel mfg

you can get various size screens
 
#29 ·
just make sure you don't use "Dawn and Cascade"

use Cascade with Dawn check the Cascade bottle, they sell many variants but you want the grease fighting power of Dawn

spelled out on the Cascade Bottle if you use Dawn soap your not going to be happy with your 6.0 bubble machine
 
#31 ·
As it is you'll use lots of water to get the Cascade out. Make sure you pull both block plugs. I installed Fumoto F 108N valves so I wouldn't have to pull the starter over and over. Also when you're done with the hose, be sure to do 3 or 4 or 5 fill N drains with distilled water before you finally fill with coolant. Also if it hasn't been mentioned, get concentrated coolant because you can't get all the water out. You put in 3 1/2 gals of concentrate and top off with distilled. Happy flushing >:)
 
#34 ·
Tractor Supply has Rotella ELC. It's EC-1 rated.
 
#35 ·
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