Say someone was to have timed the truck wrong can you can't the time. By dropping the tranny and taking off the back plate. ? Or even think it's possible
I would not even contemplate trying to fix this with the engine in the truck. I had a good brain fart when setting the cam timing on the first 6.0 I built. Did not use the tool and had the crank out 180 instead of the cam. After about an hour of words that would be starred out here, I pulled the engine I had just put in right back out again. From in and ready to drive away to back out and on a stand was 6 hours. No hoist, and both the hood and front clip still in place.
Even if you were willing to pull the primary flange (the do not mess with bolts) it would still be a pain. Getting a dial indicator on it after you put it back would not be fun as the crank can't spin freely. How would you disengage the crank and cam gears?
If you wanted to slide the cam back a bit, you need to have all the lifters not sitting on the cam. This ultimately means removal of the rockers. I don't know if you can do this with the fulcrums bolted down. Even if you could, you are still talking about pulling top of heads apart and you can guarantee you will drop at least one of the rocker pivot balls down into the oil pan. You would have to find a way to push the valve bridges down to take the tension off the rockers. If you get this far, how will you hold all 16 lifters up off the cam?
An easier way is to drop the bedplate and crank enough so the gears no longer mesh. How would you do this with the engine in the truck? Pulling both the oil pans and bedplate with the engine still in the truck does not sound like my idea of fun. How would you torque it back after? This method requires pulling front cover as well. Kiss your new front and rear main seals goodbye!
Trust me, pull the motor. The time and/or work you think you may save by leaving it in will be saved tenfold by butting the bullet and pulling it.
Idea wasdrop tranny remove y pipe. Take the big plate off and just pull the crank gear and rotate the crank with a bolt and spin the cam with one of the bolts as well and line it up and put it back on
Crank gear is not removable. Only the primary flange is, and shop manuals say if you unbolt and remove it than crank is garbage. Many shops do pull it. If you pull it, the only thing it would do is give clearance for the cam gear to slide back off the crank gear.
It's not possible. Rotating either the crank or cam 180* will end up in valve interference. Because, again, lifters are still in place.
Originally I had thought you pulled the flange. As behind the flange there are marks on the teeth which meet the mark on the cam gear.
The flange can come off. It just needs to be indexed to ensure it goes back in the exact same orientation.
Have done it many times. No transmission issues and the main seals just fine.
The fact that the crank is machined/balanced with the flange installed doesn't matter. As long as it goes back exactly as it came off.
If it's the two small dots on each gear then it's right
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