6.0 coolant change - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 19 Old 10-26-2009, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
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6.0 coolant change

How do i flush the coolant i got a filter kit coming and want to do this before i put the coolant filter on ford said i have to block my egr or something but idk couldnt find anything about it so any help is welcome how much coolant what kind and anything else thanks

2003 F350 Lariet Leveling kit eagle 197s MBRP stainless tb to 6" stack Sinister coolant kit Sct with Looney and Innovative High Idle fog light and bright box mod soon to come Edge CTS PHP ficm tuning and Cab lights
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post #2 of 19 Old 10-30-2009, 11:19 AM
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Here is a bump for you, elm. Maybe someone will chime in. I am about to do the same with mine!

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post #3 of 19 Old 10-30-2009, 05:27 PM
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Thanks to 69cj, cheezit, and beachbumcook for all the info on this.

FIRST: WARNING: Always allow the engine to cool before opening the cooling system. Do not unscrew the coolant pressure relief cap when the engine is operating or the cooling system is hot. The cooling system is under pressure; steam and hot liquid can come out forcefully when the cap is loosened slightly. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury.

Ford recommends using an iron removing flush chemical (VC-9) before changing the coolant.

If you choose to do that, you will need to drain the coolant from the engine and then re-fill w/ distilled water and the proper amount of VC-9 (typically 2 quarts of it). Drive it around and get it hot. Then drive it around for 60 more minutes at highway speed.

.................................................. .................................................. ..

Specific instructions below:

Once pressure is released, remove the pressure relief cap.
Drain the cooling system. For additional information, refer to Cooling System Draining, Filling and Bleeding in this section.
Remove the Air Cleaner (ACL) element. For additional information, refer to Section 303-12.
Disconnect the air filter minder and the Mass Air Flow (MAF) electrical connectors.

Loosen the clamp and remove the rear ACL cover.

Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing assembly.

Remove the bolts and the thermostat housing assembly.

Position the thermostat housing assembly in the vise. Press down on the thermostat crossbar and rotate the thermostat to remove it from the thermostat housing assembly.

NOTE: Use the old O-ring seal during the flushing procedure.

Install the thermostat housing assembly without the thermostat. Install the bolts.
Tighten to 23 Nm (17 lb-ft).

Connect the upper radiator hose to the thermostat housing assembly.

Install the rear ACL cover and tighten the clamp.

Connect the air filter minder and the MAF electrical connectors.

Install the ACL element. For additional information, refer to Section 303-12.
NOTE: The RH cylinder block drain plug is not removed at this time.

Remove the LH cylinder block drain plug and drain the cylinder block.

NOTE: Lightly lubricate the O-ring seal on the cylinder block drain plug with clean engine oil before installing.

Install the LH cylinder block drain plug.
Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).

NOTE: For vehicles with auxiliary climate control or commercial vehicles with auxiliary heaters, use 2.83L (3 qt) of Motorcraft® Engine Cooling System Iron Cleaner (VC-9).

NOTE: The use of excessive Motorcraft® Engine Cooling System Iron Cleaner (VC-9) can lead to gelling.

Fill the cooling system with water and 1.89L (2 qt) of Motorcraft® Engine Cooling System Iron Cleaner (VC-9).
NOTE: Adjust the heater control to the full hot position to allow coolant flow during the cooling system flush.

NOTE: Failure to allow the engine to run for one hour will result in insufficient cleaning of the cooling system.

Using the scan tool, select the active command and set the engine rpm to 1,175. Run the engine for one hour.
WARNING: Always allow the engine to cool before opening the cooling system. Do not unscrew the coolant pressure relief cap when the engine is operating or the cooling system is hot. The cooling system is under pressure; steam and hot liquid can come out forcefully when the cap is loosened slightly. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury.

Once pressure is released, remove the pressure relief cap.
Drain the cooling system. For additional information, refer to Cooling System Draining, Filling and Bleeding in this section.
Leave the radiator drain**** open.
Remove the LH cylinder block drain plug.

Remove the starter. For additional information, refer to Section 303-06B.
Remove the RH cylinder block drain plug.

NOTE: For vehicles with a standard heater, disconnect the vacuum hose at the heater control valve to open the heater core flow. For vehicles with anElectronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC) heater, turn the ignition key to the ON position.

NOTE: Failure to flush all the Motorcraft® Engine Cooling System Iron Cleaner (VC-9) from the cooling system will result in shortened coolant protection against corrosion.

Flush the cooling system with clean water through the degas bottle to completely remove the Motorcraft® Engine Cooling System Iron Cleaner (VC-9) from the cooling system.
Flush the cooling system with clean water until no foam or discoloration is draining from the cooling system.
Backflush the heater core. For additional information, refer to Heater Core Backflushing in this section.
NOTE: Failure to flush all the Motorcraft® Engine Cooling System Iron Cleaner (VC-9) from the cooling system will result in shortened coolant protection against corrosion.

Flush the cooling system with clean water through the degas bottle to completely remove the Motorcraft® Engine Cooling System Iron Cleaner (VC-9) from the cooling system.
Flush the cooling system with clean water until no foam or discoloration is draining from the cooling system.
Close the radiator drain****.
Remove the ACL element. For additional information, refer to Section 303-12.
Disconnect the air filter minder and the MAF electrical connectors.

Loosen the clamp and remove the rear ACL cover.

Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing assembly.

Remove the bolts and the thermostat housing assembly.
Remove and discard the O-ring seal.

Position the thermostat housing assembly in the vise. Press down on the thermostat crossbar and rotate the thermostat to install it in the thermostat housing assembly.

NOTE: Install a new O-ring seal.

Install the thermostat housing assembly and the bolts.
Tighten to 23 Nm (17 lb-ft).

Connect the upper radiator hose to the thermostat housing assembly.

Install the rear ACL cover and tighten the clamp.

Connect the air filter minder and the MAF electrical connectors.

Install the ACL element. For additional information, refer to Section 303-12.
NOTE: Lightly lubricate the O-ring seal on the cylinder block drain plug with clean engine oil before installing.

Install the RH cylinder block drain plug.
Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).

Install the starter. For additional information, refer to Section 303-06B.
NOTE: Lightly lubricate the O-ring seal on the cylinder block drain plug with clean engine oil before installing.

Install the LH cylinder block drain plug.
Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).

Fill the cooling system.

FYI - The coolant system capacity is 27.5 quarts - plus about 0.5 quarts more if you have a coolant filter.


.................................................. .................................................. .

For flushing and filling w/ just distilled water:

1) Buy 4 gallons of Ford Premium Gold coolant at dealer

2) Buy 15 gallons of distilled water at local grocery store.

3) Drop lower radiator hose until empty (may want to drain all you can out of the drain valve first - not as messy).

4) Reconnect hose and add distilled water to degas bottle until full.

5) Drive truck until temp guage goes to normal and thermostat opens.

6) Repeat steps #3 through #5 no less than 4 or 5 times (depends on distilled water amaount used) - I can't remember?

7) You now have 100% distilled water in your system.

8) Drop lower hose 1 last time, drain and reconnect.

9) Look in manual for your system capacity and for a 50/50% refill of coolant just add the coolant straight into your degas bottle up to the amount that equals a 50/50% concentration.

10) Start motor and add distilled water to bring system level to the MIN mark on degas bottle.

11) Drive truck around to open thermostat and let cool 1 or twice to purge any air. May need to add more distilled water (don't add coolant)... but when done you have flushed your entire system and have a perfect 50/50% concentration of coolant and distilled water!!!!

The dealer only uses tap water and so does most other places... distilled is best in order to keep the minerals out of your system.
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post #4 of 19 Old 11-01-2009, 03:23 PM Thread Starter
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thanks !!!!!!!!!!

2003 F350 Lariet Leveling kit eagle 197s MBRP stainless tb to 6" stack Sinister coolant kit Sct with Looney and Innovative High Idle fog light and bright box mod soon to come Edge CTS PHP ficm tuning and Cab lights
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post #5 of 19 Old 05-21-2014, 08:58 AM
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There is an older post of a little more conplete flush removing the two lower block plugs allowing a conplete flush.
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post #6 of 19 Old 07-18-2014, 07:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bismic View Post
Thanks to 69cj, cheezit, and beachbumcook for all the info on this.

FIRST: WARNING: Always allow the engine to cool before opening the cooling system. Do not unscrew the coolant pressure relief cap when the engine is operating or the cooling system is hot. The cooling system is under pressure; steam and hot liquid can come out forcefully when the cap is loosened slightly. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury.

Ford recommends using an iron removing flush chemical (VC-9) before changing the coolant.

If you choose to do that, you will need to drain the coolant from the engine and then re-fill w/ distilled water and the proper amount of VC-9 (typically 2 quarts of it). Drive it around and get it hot. Then drive it around for 60 more minutes at highway speed.

.................................................. .................................................. ..

Specific instructions below:

Once pressure is released, remove the pressure relief cap.
Drain the cooling system. For additional information, refer to Cooling System Draining, Filling and Bleeding in this section.
Remove the Air Cleaner (ACL) element. For additional information, refer to Section 303-12.
Disconnect the air filter minder and the Mass Air Flow (MAF) electrical connectors.

Loosen the clamp and remove the rear ACL cover.

Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing assembly.

Remove the bolts and the thermostat housing assembly.

Position the thermostat housing assembly in the vise. Press down on the thermostat crossbar and rotate the thermostat to remove it from the thermostat housing assembly.

NOTE: Use the old O-ring seal during the flushing procedure.

Install the thermostat housing assembly without the thermostat. Install the bolts.
Tighten to 23 Nm (17 lb-ft).

Connect the upper radiator hose to the thermostat housing assembly.

Install the rear ACL cover and tighten the clamp.

Connect the air filter minder and the MAF electrical connectors.

Install the ACL element. For additional information, refer to Section 303-12.
NOTE: The RH cylinder block drain plug is not removed at this time.

Remove the LH cylinder block drain plug and drain the cylinder block.

NOTE: Lightly lubricate the O-ring seal on the cylinder block drain plug with clean engine oil before installing.

Install the LH cylinder block drain plug.
Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).

NOTE: For vehicles with auxiliary climate control or commercial vehicles with auxiliary heaters, use 2.83L (3 qt) of Motorcraft® Engine Cooling System Iron Cleaner (VC-9).

NOTE: The use of excessive Motorcraft® Engine Cooling System Iron Cleaner (VC-9) can lead to gelling.

Fill the cooling system with water and 1.89L (2 qt) of Motorcraft® Engine Cooling System Iron Cleaner (VC-9).
NOTE: Adjust the heater control to the full hot position to allow coolant flow during the cooling system flush.

NOTE: Failure to allow the engine to run for one hour will result in insufficient cleaning of the cooling system.

Using the scan tool, select the active command and set the engine rpm to 1,175. Run the engine for one hour.
WARNING: Always allow the engine to cool before opening the cooling system. Do not unscrew the coolant pressure relief cap when the engine is operating or the cooling system is hot. The cooling system is under pressure; steam and hot liquid can come out forcefully when the cap is loosened slightly. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury.

Once pressure is released, remove the pressure relief cap.
Drain the cooling system. For additional information, refer to Cooling System Draining, Filling and Bleeding in this section.
Leave the radiator drain**** open.
Remove the LH cylinder block drain plug.

Remove the starter. For additional information, refer to Section 303-06B.
Remove the RH cylinder block drain plug.

NOTE: For vehicles with a standard heater, disconnect the vacuum hose at the heater control valve to open the heater core flow. For vehicles with anElectronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC) heater, turn the ignition key to the ON position.

NOTE: Failure to flush all the Motorcraft® Engine Cooling System Iron Cleaner (VC-9) from the cooling system will result in shortened coolant protection against corrosion.

Flush the cooling system with clean water through the degas bottle to completely remove the Motorcraft® Engine Cooling System Iron Cleaner (VC-9) from the cooling system.
Flush the cooling system with clean water until no foam or discoloration is draining from the cooling system.
Backflush the heater core. For additional information, refer to Heater Core Backflushing in this section.
NOTE: Failure to flush all the Motorcraft® Engine Cooling System Iron Cleaner (VC-9) from the cooling system will result in shortened coolant protection against corrosion.

Flush the cooling system with clean water through the degas bottle to completely remove the Motorcraft® Engine Cooling System Iron Cleaner (VC-9) from the cooling system.
Flush the cooling system with clean water until no foam or discoloration is draining from the cooling system.
Close the radiator drain****.
Remove the ACL element. For additional information, refer to Section 303-12.
Disconnect the air filter minder and the MAF electrical connectors.

Loosen the clamp and remove the rear ACL cover.

Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing assembly.

Remove the bolts and the thermostat housing assembly.
Remove and discard the O-ring seal.

Position the thermostat housing assembly in the vise. Press down on the thermostat crossbar and rotate the thermostat to install it in the thermostat housing assembly.

NOTE: Install a new O-ring seal.

Install the thermostat housing assembly and the bolts.
Tighten to 23 Nm (17 lb-ft).

Connect the upper radiator hose to the thermostat housing assembly.

Install the rear ACL cover and tighten the clamp.

Connect the air filter minder and the MAF electrical connectors.

Install the ACL element. For additional information, refer to Section 303-12.
NOTE: Lightly lubricate the O-ring seal on the cylinder block drain plug with clean engine oil before installing.

Install the RH cylinder block drain plug.
Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).

Install the starter. For additional information, refer to Section 303-06B.
NOTE: Lightly lubricate the O-ring seal on the cylinder block drain plug with clean engine oil before installing.

Install the LH cylinder block drain plug.
Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).

Fill the cooling system.

FYI - The coolant system capacity is 27.5 quarts - plus about 0.5 quarts more if you have a coolant filter.


.................................................. .................................................. .

For flushing and filling w/ just distilled water:

1) Buy 4 gallons of Ford Premium Gold coolant at dealer

2) Buy 15 gallons of distilled water at local grocery store.

3) Drop lower radiator hose until empty (may want to drain all you can out of the drain valve first - not as messy).

4) Reconnect hose and add distilled water to degas bottle until full.

5) Drive truck until temp guage goes to normal and thermostat opens.

6) Repeat steps #3 through #5 no less than 4 or 5 times (depends on distilled water amaount used) - I can't remember?

7) You now have 100% distilled water in your system.

8) Drop lower hose 1 last time, drain and reconnect.

9) Look in manual for your system capacity and for a 50/50% refill of coolant just add the coolant straight into your degas bottle up to the amount that equals a 50/50% concentration.

10) Start motor and add distilled water to bring system level to the MIN mark on degas bottle.

11) Drive truck around to open thermostat and let cool 1 or twice to purge any air. May need to add more distilled water (don't add coolant)... but when done you have flushed your entire system and have a perfect 50/50% concentration of coolant and distilled water!!!!

The dealer only uses tap water and so does most other places... distilled is best in order to keep the minerals out of your system.
I have to say that I am VERY disappointed with these instructions. I did as suggested and took my thermostat out. The water did not go above 140*F. For VC-9 to work, it needs to be at temps above 175*F. Then I come home and put my trailer on loaded with 3.5T. Well that got it up to 150*F. I beat the hell out of it and kept going, only to beat on my truck and trailer and waste fuel, not to mention the waste of VC-9. Please tell people who are using VC-9 to LEAVE THE THERMOSTAT IN THE TRUCK. This is false info to tell people to take it out and then flush with VC-9. I am out the $56.00 the VC-9 cost me, plus two hours of burning fuel. And I am PISSED OFF.
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post #7 of 19 Old 07-18-2014, 08:11 AM
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FYI, be prepared to replace oil cooler after flush....trash must go somewhere and it doesnt like passing through that thing. Thats why I did my flush before I had mine replaced...then coolant filter during oil cooler install...

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post #8 of 19 Old 07-18-2014, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by starcommtrey1 View Post
FYI, be prepared to replace oil cooler after flush....trash must go somewhere and it doesnt like passing through that thing. Thats why I did my flush before I had mine replaced...then coolant filter during oil cooler install...
Thank you, I have all of the parts ready to go in, just flushing before I put the new oil cooler/egr cooler in. But I am really pissed off as EVERYBODY says to take the thermostat out and it's been running at 1200rpm for the past hour, the past two hours before that, it's been driving at 70+mph. Temps won't get up to 180*F. Only up to 132.4 at high idle and 150 to 155*F driving, even with trailer. VC-9 does not work until at 180*F. Any input?

Thank you,

John
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post #9 of 19 Old 07-18-2014, 08:39 AM
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I also have a coolant filter I'm puting in, blue spring upgrade and HPOP upgrade kit. Plus a few other things while I'm in there. But this flush is ruining the whole thing, I can't even get up to temp. If I had the T-stat in, I'd be FINISHED by now! Already at 3 hours of the truck running and counting. This is ridiculous.
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post #10 of 19 Old 07-18-2014, 08:43 AM
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I shut it off. Forget this. I'm gonna wait for it to cool down, drain/catch the distilled water and VC-9 and re-install the thermostat and do it the RIGHT way.
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