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post #1 of 33 Old 10-17-2009, 04:16 PM Thread Starter
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removeal question

Can anyone help give me any tricks to removing the turbo? we have a super stuck bolt that doesn't want to seem to get loose. Oviously it's the back one and we already don't have much room? Any help would be great. Thank
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post #2 of 33 Old 10-17-2009, 05:48 PM
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First thing to do is to soak it in PBblaster or equivalent! The best wrench to get the turbo bolts off with is a 10mm flex head gear wrench--IMHO

Mark
06 F250CC SB FX4 Lariat;ARP studs;OEM gaskets; Banks exhaust;DynaTrac Ball joints;Coolant filter; High-Idle;RACCCV6000;JimmiJammers;Ravelco;SynchroMax trans case;Fumoto valves;Harpooned;CPOhighwayProducts toolbox;tracrac;Fox Weatherboots;Wet Okole Seat Covers;BriteBox;Re-flashed;Quadzilla Recon XZT Fuel Press;Blue FPR spring;DashDAQ;PHP FICM;RiffRaff boots;DCPower270AXP;PowerInverter;Rancho7000's; BPD EGR cooler;One-piece HPOP fitting;BilletWaterPump;SCT w/ Matts SRL;ELC Ultra
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post #3 of 33 Old 10-17-2009, 05:51 PM
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When I took mine off I used a 6" extension to get above turbo on a 3/8" drive ratchet, worked great.

O7 F-5504dr 4wd cab and chasis w/ 12' Scelzi service body 6spd manual trans. 200" WB 17,950 GWWR 4.88 gears
Overhead gauges w/ EGT and Boost. FCDP EGR Delete. AEM Workhorse CAI. Down pipe only, no cat or muff.
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post #4 of 33 Old 10-17-2009, 05:53 PM
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Turbo Removal (threads)
How difficult to remove turbo - TheDieselGarage.com
VGT turbo ABC's - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - bismic's Album: Turbo Removal

Mark
06 F250CC SB FX4 Lariat;ARP studs;OEM gaskets; Banks exhaust;DynaTrac Ball joints;Coolant filter; High-Idle;RACCCV6000;JimmiJammers;Ravelco;SynchroMax trans case;Fumoto valves;Harpooned;CPOhighwayProducts toolbox;tracrac;Fox Weatherboots;Wet Okole Seat Covers;BriteBox;Re-flashed;Quadzilla Recon XZT Fuel Press;Blue FPR spring;DashDAQ;PHP FICM;RiffRaff boots;DCPower270AXP;PowerInverter;Rancho7000's; BPD EGR cooler;One-piece HPOP fitting;BilletWaterPump;SCT w/ Matts SRL;ELC Ultra
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post #5 of 33 Old 10-17-2009, 07:16 PM
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I agree with both the above.
SOAK it in PB-Blaster, DEEP Creep or something stronger than WD-40.
The back one I found easier with an extension or combination of and a 3/8 ratchet. I shoved my work light in there so I could see through the pedestal it may also help to pull back the wire harness carrier with a string tied to your wiper.

the ratchet will allow for a cheater too.

White '05 crew longbed 4x4
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post #6 of 33 Old 10-17-2009, 07:33 PM
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I use a 3/8 stubby ratchet and a 6" extention...it worked well for me.


06 F350 Traded
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post #7 of 33 Old 10-17-2009, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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thanks fellas. we've soaked it in PB, used ratchets and extensions and everything. the dang thing is so rusted it's not budging.. we've been at this for a while. I'm about to light it on fire and call it a night! haha
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post #8 of 33 Old 10-17-2009, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
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you absolutely have to take the turbo/pedestal off in order to do an egr delete right?
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post #9 of 33 Old 10-17-2009, 08:55 PM
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yes sir.

O7 F-5504dr 4wd cab and chasis w/ 12' Scelzi service body 6spd manual trans. 200" WB 17,950 GWWR 4.88 gears
Overhead gauges w/ EGT and Boost. FCDP EGR Delete. AEM Workhorse CAI. Down pipe only, no cat or muff.
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post #10 of 33 Old 10-18-2009, 05:28 AM
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Here are some good instructions for cleaning it...Diesel Technician Society
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