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installing gauges. need help
started to tear apart my truck to day to install the gauges. i have diprocol gauges with the wire kit which is missing all of the hardware.(fuse, grommets for the firewall, heat shrink , ring terminals...)
-can i tap the dimmer switch for the led power? i want the gauges to dim if i turn the dimer switch... -and when taping the intake . i wanted to know what kind of gasket does the intake use rubber oring, or paper? and do they need to be replaced when you pull it. if it does i rather go to ford before hand and order one so im not waiting for a new gasket... thanks Last edited by mx730md; 10-19-2009 at 09:02 AM. |
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you should be able to find the parts at radio shack. as far as your other questions, im not sure.
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ok. i got everything wired up. the led and the power for the motors in the gages. i finished the trans temp gauge since that was the easiest one...
now i wanted to know which bank do most people tap the drivers side manifold or passengers side. i image the drivers side but i wanted to double check. i only want to do this once. just a little nervous drilling holes in my motor... also how hard does the manifold drill. i image the metal is probable pretty tough since its been heat treated a million times . i plan to take my time and drill it very slow with alot of steps up to the final 11/32 bit for the 1/8npt tap |
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Most people do tap the drivers side manifold. My tap is on the bottom, back side under the truck where it is real easy to get to. Man I never realized how rusty things are getting under there until now. Its amazing what a camera flash can show ya.
Last edited by Gamble; 10-18-2009 at 01:57 PM. |
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do you run the tap all the way threw the manifold? my thermocouple has like a double sided collar that just slides over it and then a nut that is fixed on the thermocouple.
yea mine 04 f250 is pretty rusted too. that is the next think on the list . im going to try and crawl under it with the power washer and clean it up and put fresh paint on the frame. |
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Mine was actually done when I got it...matter of fact, I posted the other day that I got a free gift, (meaning I didnt have to do it). But I my better judgement tells me that it goes all the way through the manifold wall into the open body of the manifold, if it didnt, it would be hard to read the actual temps of the exhaust gases. Good luck, hope the picture helps.
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Quote:
btw thanks for the picture. it would be nice if more people would respond i mean i bet at least 75% of the people here have gauges . oh well. i will get pictures post of where i taped for the dimmer and the 12volt for the power. because none of the pictures i found either had horrible quality or where shot to close to tell where the wires are. |
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bump... can any one help me with my pyro ? i have my boost and trans hooked up.
does any one know how how thick the manifold walls are? i just think the pyro probe is going to be to long and hit the other side. that is why i want to know how far should i run my tap in. i know the tap is tapperd that is why i want to know about how many threads do you need. i would think 2 or 3 complete turns would be plenty. and that way the probe is in the center of the pipe. -and the intake manifold/elbow uses a o-ring so it should be reusable but according to diesel manors instructions say the bolt should be torqued down to 23ft lbs. which has to be wrong i loosen mine with a 1/4 drive T wrench. |
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I doubt the probe is too long, these are pretty standard things.
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i dont have a pic but your pyro does need to sit in the center for the best reading. And when i tapped mine im pretty sure i almost went all the way with the tap then i screwed the collar in and placed the probe where i wanted it and tightned the nut down. 25,000 miles and still going strong and reading great.
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