Truck keeps blowing the pipe off when running the SCT 65hp tow tune pulling a 10k lb trailer, do I need aftermarket pipes to run the higher turbo pressures? It does fine towing on stock setting and with my SRL tune unloaded.
Order a set of boots from Riffraff Diesel, comes with clamps, boots are much better than stock. If you don't want to spend the money, like was said, clean boots and pipes with Contact Cleaner and try some hairspray when installing.
Inside of stock boots may be coated with oil from your breather and softened them up. If you haven't, get a 6' piece of 1" heater hose and whatever size PVC plug it takes to plug the hole in your intake tube, turn the 90* fitting coming out of your valve cover and run the hose underneath with zip ties, vent any blow by to atmosphere and stop running it through your turbo, charge lines and intercooler. :wink:
My X4 65 hp tow doesn't put out nearly as much boost as other tunes I have.
Order a set of boots from Riffraff Diesel, comes with clamps, boots are much better than stock. If you don't want to spend the money, like was said, clean boots and pipes with Contact Cleaner and try some hairspray when installing.
Inside of stock boots may be coated with oil from your breather and softened them up. If you haven't, get a 6' piece of 1" heater hose and whatever size PVC plug it takes to plug the hole in your intake tube, turn the 90* fitting coming out of your valve cover and run the hose underneath with zip ties, vent any blow by to atmosphere and stop running it through your turbo, charge lines and intercooler.
My X4 65 hp tow doesn't put out nearly as much boost as other tunes I have.
Decided to order their boot and two new clamps after looking at them and reading their reviews online. Really don't want to be back on the side of the road putting that pipe back on again!
Ok, my bad, Thought it was a package when I got mine last summer, they came together, prolly ordered separately and were just packed together, my memory come and goes.:wink:
They are very noticeably better quality than stock.
Just put the riff raff boot and clamps on and it held at over 30 lbs of boost so hopefully that fixed the problem. Sprayed a little hairspray just for good measure . We will see when I hook a trailer to it.
I bought the rudys kit for mine. Works like a champ. I was even able to gain a little more clearance around the back of my DC Power alternator. $150 shipped. Polished aluminum pipes, boots, and clamps
FYI, the clamps that come with the kit suck real bad. Glad I kept my stock ones. Too bad I'm on the side of the road with the camper. And the wife, 4year old, and 6 week old.
Well after I got to my destination, I pulled it all apart, degreased everything, hair sprayed the boots and cranked the chit out of the clamps. Then about 35 miles in it blew off again. I ended up having to buy a new gates elbow and clamp set for about $90. Now I'm gonna replace all the crappy chinese clamps with the factory ones.
I had the same problem with mine blowing off after my original turbo CAC boot blew out. Went on a few trips over Pacheco Pass on my way to Santa Cruz and it would either blow off or the boot would to slide out under the clamp, also had an oem clamp snap. So I super glued the clamp to the boot and also used a exhaust clamp around the CAC tube and connected it to the alternator. It hasn't moved a millimeter since!
Oh I just realized I wasted my time writing this!! Haven't had trouble with the hot side yet still have the plastic tube.
I assume there are no cons to not running the crankcase breather back into the intake? On our racecar we would connect the crankcase breather to the collector on the header to help pull some of the compression out of the block. Didn't know if running the hose to the intake was helping remove the pressure any more efficiently?
My hot side tube just started blowing out of the New Mishimoto boot at the intercooler two times I mashed on the accelerator. I'm getting ready to tow my 13,000 lb 5th wheel to Florida and DO NOT want to blow off towing through Tennessee. I just pulled the tube off and there was a little oil inside the boot. Sprayed everything with brake cleaner and I rough sanded the tube. I used hairspray and put it back together. I'll test drive later.
On the battery tray there is a flange with two holes in it. I thought maybe getting an exhaust pipe strap bolt it to the tray down low and clamp it to hold the tube from being blown out. I also saw a YouTube video that a guy used a pair of channel lock 909 crimpers to form a bead all the way around the end of the tube so it couldn't blow out.
Maybe doing both those things and a new clamp for good measure might stop this from happening again.
I've never seen mishimoto boots, but if they're the same crap that rudys sends, throw them away and invest in either oem boots or riff raff. I also got the breeze brand clamps. Worth every penny. I couldnt go a month between boot blowoffs before. Even with sanding the boots and pipes, degreasing EVERYTHING and using hairspray, 3m spray adhesive, dry...you name it.
I find once you blow a boot off it's not going to get better even with a clean and hair spray
also the clamps can deform and it's hard to know what to look for
I run a deiselsite boot and clamps at the turbo because side of the highway on a mountain with wife kids and camper and no safe pull off is a terrible place to be under a hood praying a semi doesn't tag you
my OEM was new when it blew and it was likley my fault 9ft lbs is more than i thought by feel i went around and used a torque meter later on and all my clamps were a few turns loose
I've tried everything. Steel wool the tube to rough it up, hairspray, Permatex aviation gasket sealer....so tomorrow I'm going to the dealer and get OEM and clamps. Leaving in two weeks and I don't want to mess with it.
Also, I don't remember who I got them from, but one of the suppliers out there makes wire rings that fit on the pipe in the grooves and help hold every thing together, the factory boots have a ridge molded into them that fit into the grooves, most aftermarket don't have that, so the ring forms a bead that does the same thing in reverse. I have the rings on mine and Riff Raff boots with OEM clamps and they even held when the unison ring stuck and blew out the intercooler, showed 50#'s of boost on scangauge, you think a boot is loud, try blowing the whole hot side tank off. You also can make a bracket that holds the hot side tube from moving away from the turbo under high boost, I have not needed that but a buddy that weight pulls with his highly modded 6.0 had to put one one to keep from blowing the boot at the turbo. UPDATE see post #36
Well, I took the boot completely off the intercooler. There is a ridge inside the Mishimoto boot. I have been shoving the tube all the way in. So the ridge was past the groove. If I had the ring in the groove it might have held. So I permatexed both the boot and tube. I let it get tacky then put it on the tube so the ridge fit in the groove. The clamp now sits right over the ridge. Hopefully this will keep the tube from being pushed out . Before, the tube probably got pushed fast enough to slide right past the ridge. I have oem clamps and boot coming from white bear lake Ford. I'll take the truck out and get on it to see if this holds before I install the new parts.
Now, that I have the tube pushed in so the groove matches the ridge, the tube fits better in the boot on the turbo. But it wasn't blowing out there anyway.
Torque pro has been reading 17-20 when it's been blowing out. I'll see higher boost than that towing my 5th wheel.
PS: I found the ring at Dieselsite. It's on the way. If I had #9 wire I probably could have made one, but this will snap on better.
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