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Let's talk oil

12K views 46 replies 15 participants last post by  jetjock15 
#1 ·
First post here. Wanted to take a couple minutes and get some opinions. Living in New England the winters get into the single digits a lot. Having a 6.0 starting sometimes is a bit rough.
Since I've only owner this truck for a few months. I did rotella t6 for the oil. As I read it was good, little pricy, now thinking about going back to some conventional 15w 40 and running that all year round (plugging truck in durring the winter) and wanted some thoughts on these oils.
Thanks in advanced
I'm looking at
Mobile 1 delvac 1300
Delo 400
Shell rotella triple t Diesel engine oil
Traveller premium all fleet
Mobile, delo, and shell are all pretty much priced the same (65$ for 5 gallons) travellers is 45$ for 5 gallons




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#4 · (Edited)
Noooo...not another oil thread....:popcorn2:

If you are going to plug it in then you are not going to see any difference starting it up whether you use 5w-30 or 15w-40.

I live in NH and I only plug in when it is close to single numbers and more so below 0. In this case and the particulars of my truck..if it is in the single numbers and I am not plugged in I have seen A SLIGHT difference in how it cold starts from 15w to 5W. It is a difference but on my truck not super huge. Not enough I would go out of my way for a multi weight 5W oil even not plugged in.

Depending on age of truck..status of injectors (stiction) etc each person can see a different difference between say 5w30 full synthetic and dino 15w40 like say Motorcraft. I just did not see a lot.

Since Walmart carries Delo HD 5W40 I use it. But if I plugged in I would not care as much.

As long as it is a good HD Diesel rated oil with the proper weight rating for your application and you keep up the proper oil change interval then use what makes you happy.

Or go to Bob The Oil Guys website and really twist your mind.

I use Delo...it is affordable..works...available everywhere....but I would use any similar oil happily and without worrying...losing sleep or arguing/debating.

Now if you want to make this thread REALLY go...ask about which additive you should use...
 
#5 ·
BTW....you realize that apparently...oil IS a religion..:please:
 
#6 · (Edited)
All of those you mentioned are fine if plugged in when cold. Your 6.0 is going to shear all of them to a 30 weight anyway. You'll have less nailing when cold on a 30 weight, ( I should say the 10 of 10w30 when cold), and it's more stable over 5000 miles, so I second the recommendation on the 10w30 Delo. Or Valvoline Premium Blue 10w30. Or Rotella T5 10w30. It's really splitting hairs among the name brands as far as performance.
There is a newer player in town, Delo SD 15w30. It has really good looking specs, and I expect it to be a stellar oil in the 6.0 based on those specs. Get in on the Amazon deal while it lasts, less than 10.00 a gallon. I have not run it yet, but expect it to be just fine.
BTW, the Traveller, WalMart 15w40 Fleet and LubriGold sold at Auto Zone are the same product, just different bottles. Pick based on price, change it at reasonable intervals, and drive it like you stole it.
 
#13 ·
I ordered 9 gallons of the Delo SD after you posted that, I got 6, seller doesn't have a clue on how to pack & ship. They threw 2 cases in a box, 1 on it's side, (it only leaked a little), nothing in the big box to keep em from moving around. They must have just slapped a label on the other case cause the first stop on UPS tracker showed damaged in shipping. Not sure if they're going to ship another case or refund, I hope they ship cause you're right, it looks like good stuff. I wanted to run it in the 6.0, a turbo tractor & a turbo skid steer. Usually run Traveller or Rotella dino in the non turbo tractors.
 
#29 ·
No. It doesn't need to be CJ-4. The older CI-4 rating is what the 6.0 was designed to run on. Most oils are CJ-4 anyway so it really shouldn't be a concern.

Any synthetic 5w-40 or 10w-30 will do you well.
 
#9 · (Edited)
I think you should try a synthetic oil out, it is pricey tho lol
 
#10 · (Edited)
:woot:I personally recommend Any oil as long as it is "Full synthetic" , lots of choices ,I USe Royal Purple and love it, :woot: , I have used delvac Mobil,Rotella white bottle, and Oreilly diesel house oil all 15-40 and in mornings cold start my truck had slight faint misses only cold even at like 50-60 degrees ambient temp , I went to Royal 15-40 never again in mornings it's smooth and Really quieter also. Also it only gets down to like 20 degrees down here in Texas rarely tho.
 
#15 · (Edited)
:woot:I personally recommend Any oil as long as it is "Full synthetic" jus like ford motor craft or any other I USe Royal Purple and love it, :woot:
I could be reading this wrong. If I'm not, lets set the record straight. Motorcraft oil is a synthetic blend, not a full syn. It's made by Conoco-Phillips to MC specs. Good stuff,as good as any other synblend. The Conoco, P66, Union 76, and Kendall offerings are all slightly better. with the liquid titanium additive. All made by CP, all the same.
 
#11 ·
Maybe I should merge ALL of the oil threads together...
 
#16 ·
I have a challenge for @Patriot... find ALL oil threads here and post the links in this thread. Do you accept said challenge?
 
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#18 ·
Not trying to start an oil war or anything like that. But when I did the oil change the first time I just grabbed t6 because that was what the dealership recommended. I'm not really believing in the whole synthetic thing is better if the oil is being changed 5k miles, seems like a waste, so in going to try conventional oil, just not sure what brand to run.


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#20 · (Edited)
No war here, IMO. You are spot on realizing that a full synthetic may not be an economical choice for a 5k OCI. Only a used oil analysis can tell you for sure if you are reaping any benefit. Guys are usually analytical about everything, but we are just like women when it comes to oil. Very emotional.. Oh what a pretty blue (silver, white) bottle!
Once you start doing UOA, you will probably find (and be really surprised) at the performance of many conventional oils not only equal, but pass the performance of the "superior" full synthetic oil. There are a boatload of 15w40 that will show less wear to the internals than the 5w40's under normal use, just because of the smaller viscosity spread. That's why 10w30's usually show better performance in a HEUI engine. The HPOP just tears up the viscosity improvers. Like deleting the EGR, it can't fail if it isn't there, and the lower the spread, generally, the less VI present. Additive packages ( calcium, phos, moly, sodium, boron, etc.) make a difference as well.
There is evidence to support that the lowly WalMart Fleet at 9 something a gallon, can outperform some 5w40's at 20 a gallon.
A full syn will show it's superiority in extreme conditions. If it's 30 below in Alaska, I would want a 5w40. OTOH, if it's consistantly 115 in the Arizona desert, I'm going to want a straight 30 or 40, they just handle heat better. But for the average person buying oil over the counter, I'd recommend a full synthetic because it wont break down as quickly under high heat.
All that being said, the Rotella you chose is fine. Any of the conventionals you mentioned will be fine. If you are looking for a recommendation, the Delo line will serve you well. A very stout additive pack puts it a half step in front.
 
#23 ·
Ohhh no..not another additive thread...bwahahaha....oh wait..not to laugh to hard as that thread always goes bad.

Additives are like using meds for erectile dysfunction.....if you use em...just keep it to yourself....and seek medical attention if you experience an erection lasting more than four hours.
 
#24 · (Edited)
Again no war. Archoil and Rev-X have similar components, and do similar things. If you don't have an issue to address, such as stiction, there is probably no need to dose a premium oil. Save your money and invest in a bypass unit to keep the oil clean. I also agree that a fuel additive is "muy importante".
Again, there are many, you have to dig through MSDS to find the component makeup of each and see where your benefit lies. Quickly, Redline 85 Plus, Opti-Lube, and FPPF Lubricity + Fuel Power are similar. RL and OL have a demulsifier, drain your water separator occasionally. FPPF has an emulsifier, water gets encapsulated and moves though the system to combustion. Pick your poison. A cetane booster should be used in the 6.0 regardless of whatever other dope you put in the fuel. Change your fuel filters when Ford calls for it, and see if your engine has the new blue spring kit for fuel pressure.
 
#46 ·
What would be a good oil bypass kit to go with? I see sinister is that a good one?

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sinister ....it's not just a name, it's a buisiness model for the customer service department :doh: stay far away from sinister


If I talk too fast, just listen slow. :rofl: Can't get him to capitalize, but he's much more coherent than he used to be. #teamgalt
capitals are for states :look: and wait did you say you are cracking the code :look:
I will work on that... >:)


Ah yes, I've seen this before and it's a serious condition but not to worry, the doctor is in and treatment is available.

Take 2 shots of diesel every 6 hours until your memory of the word Torque returns to normal. Side effects may include whistling sound in your ears, a sensation of falling forward or acceleration, and raging hard-ons. See urgent care immediately if you have an erection lasting longer than 4 hours.
:rofl:
 
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#27 ·
Bypass: Another passionate subject. There are several of those as well.

Amsoil, Frantz, Nuc Motorsports. I like the kit from OilChargeSystems. No affiliation, it's just a well thought out, complete kit with a great mounting bracket.

Sorry for all the noob questions, just wanna make sure I get my truck setup so it can stay running good for a while, would a oil and coolant bypass be a smart idea? I am going to next order a moniter


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#31 ·
without reading this thing or understanding why i am drawn to these car crash type scenarios / threads repeatedly.
I will say I worship at the alter of 5-40 synthetic and an archoil chaser :rofl:
we have a chant :look:
 
#32 ·
OK now i have read it...and agree with most of what has been said to this point.
monitor first.
cts 2 would be my favorite...wish it had been available when i got my cts but it was new at the time so...
the php option has the potential to turn tuning on it head a bit. and i like it.
being economically frugal at present i might go with the x3 option for now just because that is where all the tunes are at present
and the android dongle for a monitor, i must have killed the braincell dedicated to remembering the name of that damn set up :doh: been two months since i remembered the name of that system without proding :look:
but that would be the cheapest well proven system for the 6.0 ...
at present :nod: i cant wait to see what comes of the PHP cts2 set up I like the ability to tell the computer to do something rather than having to trick it into doing something by tinkering with what it thinks is happening...so to speak.
 
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#40 ·
Everytime I start the truck I can't wipe the smile off my face, and when I hear the turbo, I can't stop smiling, love that sound

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Better start that savings account, so when chit happens you won't lose that happy feeling :rofl:
And then when do do catch the moditis flu you'll be good $$$$$$$$$$$

What did he say?:dunno:.......My eyes are hazing over. This was about oil , no?
You have to read it all, he was asking different questions and was advised to get a monitor in his truck asap.
The thread evolved to oil,additives,filters, monitors etc....:wink[3]:
 
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#43 ·
No oil or oil additive thread is complete without the following:

#archoilgangbang

Now that that is out of the way. This thread is like beating the dirt that is left of the decomposed horse.

I run T5 with archoil additive and never have any problems.
 
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