I preformed a coolant flush this weekend to switch from Ford Gold to a Cat-1 ELC and to add a Mishimoto coolant filter. I did it just like the flush that Bill Hewitt showed on Youtube with the exception that I did the distilled water 2 times (also no chemicals). I did not have any heat issues with the truck previously now this morning on the way to work I have 15 to 20 degree differences between ECT and EOT. Did I screw something up in the oil cooler and is there an easy fix?
If the Deltas were fine before, and bad after, chances are something got dislodged and stuck in the cooler. A back flush could help.
When I did my first flush, I screwed it up somehow and the deltas skyrocketed. I think what I did was I drained the blocks and pet**** and then did a chemical flush. From there, I only did a pet**** drain. That left over half the chemical flush in there. Not draining the block leaves over half the chemical in there. A few drives after I completed the flush, the delta was out of tolerance enough for the wrench light to come on.
To easily drain the block without removing the starter each time, the Fumoto F-108n drain valves and a 113 O-RIng, could be your friend.
Did a water only flush the other day to be able to switch to ELC and filter from the Ford Gold. My Deltas where all in line before the flush now they have went nuts so I figure I dislodged something and now my oil cooler is clogged. What is the best way to clear this problem up: buy a new cooler, re-flush the system? If the answer is replace who do you recommend buying it from please remember cost vs quality (please no BPD I cannot afford it). If the answer is re-flush do I use dish washing soap, simple green, VC9, etc...and point me in the direction of flush procedures I used the Bill Hewitt method first time?
Thanks for the help
You can try to reverse flush it. The cover is a pain to get to but if you just remove the intercooler pipe from the turbo and move it aside and use a t30 torch bit with a 1/4 inch ratcheting wrench you can get it out. I used 3/4" OD clear hose and it was a little too big so 5/8 would probably work better. I just shaved down the sides of the hose til it fit and was still nice and snug. Disconnect the lower radiator hose and remove BOTH block plugs and hook the clear hose to a garden hose. Turn it on full blast and every minute or two crimp the hose to allow pressure to build and release it. You'll be amazed of the stuff that comes out. Do this for 30-45 minutes then reassemble. Fill the degas bottle with distilled water and run it until ect gets to 190 then run it for at least another 5-10 minutes. Driving preferably. Drain it from both block plugs and radiator and repeat until the water comes out clear. Reassemble everything and add 3.5 gallons of elc concentrate and top it off with distilled water. Keep some water with you and watch it over a few days and add water as necessary to keep it at the minimum line. You should have a 50/50 mix that way. Just by reverse flushing for 30 minutes and filling it and running it then draining only 3 times I went from a 20* delta to 8*. If you think you've flushed it as well as you can then get a new oil cooler. Autonation Ford White Bear Lake has the best price for oem oil cooler. Right around $300
When I first bought my TRuck it had 149k miles noticed EOT was at like 248degress I was like dam oh well lol I ended up flushing Cooling system with BLUE DEVIL flush from Oreilys auto parts it's Amazing Stuff I have used it once and the EOT have never ever gon above 220degress at all it's good stuff Try it out !:smile2: now truck has 157k miles no issues yet.
Really recommend using a Ford OEM oil cooler. If FICMRepair sells Ford OEM for that price than it's good. There's others available, but some high flow coolers come exceeding the 15 degrees out of the box. That may be fine for round town, but I don't know how I feel about that towing up 6%+.
Well i think the time has finally came to stop messing with my oil cooler and replace it however therein lies the problem. I am planning on going with the OEM cooler but this surgery is above my pay grade and the "diesel shop" in my area seems to specialize in Cummin's. I know from reading the forum that I should use a person schooled in the fine art of 6.0. Can anyone suggest someone in the North Central KY area to this work and how much labor should i expect to pay?
I would go to Red Diamond way before Holderdown. David Furgeseon would be the guy to talk to and best shop in that area. I believe he's actually in Indiana, but still fairly close to you
Not for certain, but I believe so. David pretty much put Holderdown on the map when he worked there from the stories I've heard. He also builds a decent 5r110 trans.
Are you the owner of Red Diamond Diesel? If so how much am i looking at for the labor to change out oil cooler, thermostat and any other obvious things that one does that deep in the motor?
As most of you know from reading my other post my oil cooler is partially clogged because I flushed the system to get rid of the Ford Gold and add a coolant filter. The highest my EOT has ever gotten so far is around 220-230 range. Is there a product that anyone makes that would act like an external oil cooler in conjunction with a the partially clogged oil cooler? The reason I ask is that since my cooler probably would not clog any worse (because of the coolant filter install) why couldn't one just add something like a heavy duty transmission cooler to combat high EOT?
I am not very mechanical so there may be something that I am overlooking; however I am trying to think "outside the box" to save a decent amount of money and heart ache.
It's not necessarily the high EOT that's the problem. The fact that you're seeing a high EOT means that the flow through cooler has been compromised. That means that flow to the EGR cooler (assuming you still have one) is also compromised. This can cause the EGR cooler to overheat and rupture allowing coolant into the intake manifold and leading to HG failure. Liquid doesn't compress and if enough gets into the cylinders, it will blow the gaskets. If you have deleted the EGR cooler, then it's not quite as critical, but you would still be risking an oil cooler rupture if it gets worse.
If your deltas were good prior to the flush, I'd recommend, flushing the system again and running some Cascade through it for a few days. Then thoroughly backflush the oil cooler. There are many write ups on this process if you do some searching. I'm not saying this will solve the problem, but it's a fairly inexpensive way to buy some time as long as you have the time to spend.
and if your filter is just a bypass it won't prevent clogging of the cooler
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