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New 6.0 owner

3K views 18 replies 6 participants last post by  jacksun 
#1 · (Edited)
Hello all,

My name is James.

I just picked up a 2006 F240 CC long bed Lariat from the original owners. It has 205k on the clock when I got it. The maintenance history is pretty good from what I got from the oasis report. It was dealer maintained for most of its life and maintained by a mech who worked at the dealer after that. They also upgraded to the bulletproof egr cooler and oil cooler. Truck was never tuned, modified, or lifted. Basically stock, which was what I was lining for. They had all the paperwork for everything done since new.

I just ordered bilstein 5100's from socalsupertrucks because the stock fx4 shocks suck ****. I don't mind a truck like ride but they are so bad that my wife couldn't read from her phone while I was driving on the highway. Maybe the po didn't notice as much because they lived out in the country with perfect roads.

I feel like it'll be needing new batteries soon because startup is longer than normal. At least compared to the 6.0 trucks at work.

I do have a few questions:
There's a gas station that has diesel #2 that is 50 cent cheaper per gallon than regular diesel. Is there any reason to avoid that fuel in the 6.0?
I'm about to run it in my modified 79 Mercedes 240D and see what happens.

The truck came with a 5th wheel attached to it. Which I won't be needing anytime soon. I want to remove it, will I have to fill any holes in the bed after is removal?

I want to get an all in one monitor to watch what's going on in the engine. I don't want pillar mounted gauges. Any recommendations? Well not be tuning the trick but I will be towing a race car and trailer one in awhile.

Lastly, the stock stereo system is terrible. I'm spoiled by my 2013 Ford. Anyone have a nice aye market setup that doesn't have a sub taking up space in the cab?
 
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#2 ·
Does the truck have a hop to it more or less. A constant bounce at some speeds ??
 
#5 ·
Diesel #2 is ULSD which is required by the EPA to run in Highway vehicles and at every diesel fuel station in the US. If it really is that much cheaper make sure it isn't dyed red, Red means off road diesel (not taxed) and if you get caught it's a big fine.
 
#6 ·
Beautiful truck first of all. These are nice trucks there is no doubt about that. But some do have a trait to flex at the frame going down the road at different speeds. I would for sure get some new shocks on it first and see how that does for you.

Also batteries a VERY important in these trucks. If it's not turning over fast I would replace them as soon as possible. The FICM pulls a lot of power and if the batteries are low on power at startup it can wipe out your FICM. " Fuel Injection Control Module "
With these trucks the truck is running off the batteries for the first minute or two with the OEM alternator. The glow plugs pull more amps then the alt puts out...........so good strong batteries are important.

As far as you ride goes there is a thread in the suspension part of this forum you may want to look at : "My theory on the SuperDuty hop". It has tons of posts and a few different ideas on how to deal with it.

Congrats on the new truck. They are nice machines.
 
#7 ·
Oh yea I would get a Edge model monitor or even the ScangageII.
As far as the diesel# 2 goes it runs exactly the same but there are no road taxes on it. Master Chase is right you can get in trouble if you get caught with it in your truck. But hell 50 cents is 50 cents cheaper just don't get caught :)
 
#9 ·
I think diesel #2 is the road taxed fuel.
 
#10 ·
Yeah #2 should be for on road. I would be careful with it being cheaper too, keep a quality fuel in there. I'd try it a couple times and then drain the HFCM to see if there is much water in there. Also go to another station to see if you get more miles out of a tank too. If it's around the same and not much water, I would probably use it.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Hello all,

My name is James.
Welcome James.

I just picked up a 2006 F240 CC long bed Lariat from the original owners. It has 205k on the clock when I got it. The maintenance history is pretty good from what I got from the oasis report. It was dealer maintained for most of its life and maintained by a mech who worked at the dealer after that. They also upgraded to the bulletproof egr cooler and oil cooler. Truck was never tuned, modified, or lifted. Basically stock, which was what I was lining for. They had all the paperwork for everything done since new.
If they did the BP cooler and new oil cooler they may have done studs as well at one point. What kind of coolant did they use? I highly recommend flushing with an EC1 rated coolant if not done already. Also highly recommend a coolant filter.


I feel like it'll be needing new batteries soon because startup is longer than normal. At least compared to the 6.0 trucks at work.
Extended starting can be caused from several issues. The fact that it starts up, just takes longer would lead me to believe the batteries are not the issue. Could be glow plugs or weak HPO system.


The truck came with a 5th wheel attached to it. Which I won't be needing anytime soon. I want to remove it, will I have to fill any holes in the bed after is removal?
Depends on the model of hitch. Some do bolt through the bed and others just attach to a gooseneck ball.

I want to get an all in one monitor to watch what's going on in the engine. I don't want pillar mounted gauges. Any recommendations? Well not be tuning the trick but I will be towing a race car and trailer one in awhile.
For this I always recommend a PHP FICM tuner or an Edge CTS. The PHP tuner is a reworked Edge that will monitor all the same things. Also this will allow you to rollback your FICM tune and get better mpg.

Lastly, the stock stereo system is terrible. I'm spoiled by my 2013 Ford. Anyone have a nice aye market setup that doesn't have a sub taking up space in the cab?
I have all Polk (aside from the Kenwood head unit) and highly recommend them. I used DB651 speakers all the way around. I do have a sub, but even with it off it is one of the best sounding factory replacement setups I've heard (not counting component systems). Also there are ways to mount subs and not take up usable space.
 
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#13 · (Edited)
Stereo upgrade

As far as a sound system goes I recommend
Alpine for the H/U
Dynaudio for mids and highs
J&L Audio for bass
McIntosh for power
 
#16 ·
No studs done. Not sure if studs are really needed on a stock tune truck that doesn't get pushed.

It is bullet proof diesel parts though.

I'm not sure on the coolant but I was going to drain and replace it anyway.

Start up takes about 1.5 seconds. There was a time it took about 3 or 4 seconds. I'll investigate the plugs. Just upgraded the glow plugs, harness, and relay on my Mercedes yesterday.

Thanks for the audio stuff! So many options.
 
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