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Oil questions on my 6.0

8K views 81 replies 23 participants last post by  DieselDan66 
#1 ·
Before I begin, yes I did look through and find plenty of info on the rotella 15w40 to t6 change idea. However I do live in Arizona and am wondering if the hotter climate 9 months out of the year would have a negative effect on this change. I found very positive responses in colder weather but not too many people have tried it in the warmer climate. I do have rough idle in the morning as it still does get to 30 at night in the winter (I know it's not that cold but the truck doesn't like the oil temp at 45 in the morning). I have heard the thinner oil will help these "cold" starts. To combat this I have been plugging in the truck overnight. Does this have any affect on the oil as far as needing to be changed more often? I have began to run rev x on my last oil change. I apologize as I don't mean to beat a dead horse my questions are more related to my personal situation and location.
 
#2 ·
5-40 synth is far superior to the 15-40
it hits 100 plus where i am driving and it runs better in the summer too.
there are tons of threads on oil but 5-40 is what i would go with regardless of my location
 
#3 ·
5w-40 and 15w-40 are the same when it comes to warm/hot weather. The first numbers are the cold weather weight. I would also suggest Archoil 9100 it will definitely help smooth out your motor when cold.
 
#4 ·
^^^ I'm with John. Ford has a Motorcraft branded 5W-40 synthetic. This is straight off their product page.....

Motorcraft® SAE 5W-40 Full Synthetic Diesel Motor Oil is recommended for use in Powerstroke® diesel engines over a wide temperature range, from -20 °F (-29 °C) to over 100 °F (38 °C)

If :ford: says it's OK, what could go wrong? :dunno:
 
#7 ·
What is your FICM voltage before you start the truck in the morning? What about right after the truck starts and is running rough?
 
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#14 ·
When I started it this morning (it was plugged in) I showed 48 on my cts monitor and 49 or so after it started. I don't quite trust the first reading as I had to change it to show voltage for the ficm on the display. I will double check again at lunch when it's cold. What readings should I be seeing for voltage?
 
#8 · (Edited)
The best oil for the 6.0 is the synthetic 5W/40 hands down the guys ^^^ know what they are talking about.
Same on the question about your FICM voltage, if your voltage is down your truck will be pretty grouchy until it heats up.
And yes the thinner oil does aid in a smoother running engine when cold.

Check that FICM voltage and clean that EGR valve if you still have one............

One more thing if you don't have the updated fuel pressure regulator 'blue spring' low fuel pressure can also affect how smooth it idles.
 
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#10 ·
I've been running T6 for several years. I had it in my '06 in WA in both warm and cold. I've driven in 100+F with it. Now I'm in Alaska with my '07. Still running T6.
It has seen 98 in Fairbanks and -46 in Fairbanks also.....

Just sayin'....
 
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#23 ·
What's the 6.0 run like in weather that cold. Mine is night and day difference from 80 degree weather to 40 degree weather. Never been to -40 though
 
#11 ·
my truck has been in sac at 110 and at home -18 no matter the temp, it just likes 5-40 better than it ever got along with 15-40.
especially with rotella i think the t6 is higher quality than the t5. and i LOVE archoilbest additive i ever tried.
one last thing and it may ruffle feathers but here goes
t5 they list as semi synth and t6 they list as synth...just sayin
and when first got my truc running after i bought it...t6 and it instantly ran better and it was 100 degrees that day

there are lots of good synthetic oils out there in the 5-40 range...pick one
 
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#12 ·
Personally noticed no difference between Ford 15w40 semi synthetic without Revx, 15w40 with RevX, and Rotella T6 without RevX. I am in AZ where I see temps of 20 to 115.

Even though I don't notice the difference, I am going to add RevX to my T6 and continue to run a synthetic 5W40with RevX. I believe that over the long run, this will be better for the engine.
 
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#13 ·
The 5W/40 is a colder weather oil, the difference between the two grades is only cold temp limitations. They both are the same ratings for 100* or 110* summer temps.
The 6.0 injectors run MUCH better with the thinner when cold oil like the 5W/40.

I see Honda has engines running 0W/20........ Oil is changing and all for the better. These newer synthetic oils are superior to the standard natural oil that has been used for years. The acid levels as well as ash levels are so much better in the synthetics you can buy today. Plus it's so much better on all the rubbers and seals in these engines and the 6.0 has tons of o-rings.
 
#15 ·
48 is where you want it to be. You can go lower iirc 46 is the absolute lowest but that is usually indicative of a FICM that is going south.
 
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#17 ·
I didn't know they made a non-diesel t6 but if there is go with the one for diesel.
 
#18 ·
Dan, I'm also in Arizona and run the Rotella T6 in my 6.0. As mentioned, it sounds like you have some stiction going on in your injectors, so adding either Archoil or Rev-x should help out (or plugging it in like you do). Let me know if you ever need a hand. :thumb:
 
#19 ·
Thank you for the offer! I may take you up on that if something comes up that stumps me. I'm going to get the T6 oil in the truck tomorrow and the archoil arrives Friday. I'll throw 16 ounces in and see how she starts on my trip up north this weekend. After that the search starts for a shop to do head studs and EGR delete.
 
#20 ·
I've helped numerous people out from offering advice, to assisting with minor repairs, to scanning their truck. Just let me know what you need! :thumb: As far as a shop to do your work, why are you wanting to do head studs now? It sounds like with the exception of the stiction (or FICM issue, perhaps?) that your truck is running/performing fine.
 
#82 ·
As far as a shop to do your work, why are you wanting to do head studs now? It sounds like with the exception of the stiction (or FICM issue, perhaps?) that your truck is running/performing fine.
This question kind of stuck with me as I was researching engine builds. And it does bring up a valid point... The truck is running well currently and maybe just addressing the oil cooler and EGR would make more sense right now. I am really leaning towards the bulletproof diesel oil to air cooler or whatever they call it. And after doing some research on tunes many people are running mild tunes without studs which I didn't really think was an option (without destroying the motor I mean). Am I crazy for not going through the whole motor and studding it? To refresh everyone's memory I drive a 2006 F350 with pretty much just the blue spring kit addressed on it now.
 
#21 ·
Well I was under the impression from reading other posts on here that it was an issue that needs to be addressed at some point? That under high boost pressure the head studs would stretch? To fill you in on some background info, my goal is to basically have a solid truck (I'm a worrier lol). Something that I can take up north and do some light off reading in as well as take to the dirt drags and open her up a bit. I thought in the future maybe a mild tune but nothing crazy. As of now it does run very well. The only other complaint I have it the sloppy steering I need a new steering gear to fix I'm told.
 
#22 ·
The real root of the issue is that ford only put 4 bolts per cylinder... the center ones are shared... and this design allows for stretching of the factory bolts causing the heads to "lift".

Studs do not solve the issue, it is a remedy.

That combined with the oil cooler/egr issue is part of the 6.0 problems.
 
#24 ·
Studs do not solve the issue, it is a remedy.

That combined with the oil cooler/egr issue is part of the 6.0 problems.
I'm a little confused by how this was worded, I understand the design of these wasn't stellar by any means. But I have been hearing that with the upgraded head studs you won't have to worry about stretching. So I know it doesn't solve the design issue but once they are in I shouldn't have anything to worry about correct? I also plan to update the OEM cooler and run a coolant filter as well as delete the EGR
 
#31 ·
Well I mean I haven't looked specifically for head stud failures online but have trucks broken those upgraded studs? Everyone talks about them like its a cure for that poor design and you are the first person to tell me otherwise. Is there any other option to fix it? And what causes the break? Is it constant high boost pressure? Just to be clear I'm not calling you a liar lol I have genuinely not heard of them not being the perfect solution until now
 
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