I'm hoping get some thoughts from members who have the Bullet Proof Diesel remote oil cooler system on their 6.0. I'm getting ready to do it on my '04 and am leaning towards the system that retains the OEM oil filter instead of the remote filter behind the bumper.
My feeling is that the OEM/Racor filters remove down to 20 microns at 95% flow rate, but the remote filter that comes with the BP system is rated at 32 microns. I'm thinking I want to stay with the 20 micron filter, even though the Bullet Proof filter is larger and maybe easier to service. I always have changed my oil and filters at 5,000 miles and don't plan to ever extend that. Isn't the cleanest oil possible key to longevity of the 6.0? Especially the injectors, etc. So why go with a filter rated at 32 and not 20?
Thoughts of other Bullet Proof owners who have been where I am. Thanks
I've read about the problems with the plastic bypass parts in the OEM housing, but i haven't found a 20 micron filter for the BP system. Even Bullet Proof only offers (recommends?) the 51832 Wix. Maybe I'm wrong, but I'm stuck on the Wix only filtering at 32 microns.
Do people ever replace the plastic bypass parts in the OEM housing as part of maintenance every 50k miles? Or can they even be replaced or upgraded?
I've always thought that the 51832 was an interesting/odd choice. In part, the higher micron rating. ...but there is also the max flow rate of 12-16 GPM and the bypass pressure of 13-19 PSI - both below OEM spec.
Those two numbers contributed to why I debated Ken about low oil temps. Cooler oil is thicker oil. When thicker oil is pushed into a filter with both a low rated flow rate and low bypass pressure, it's going to go around the media. Maybe not entirely, but certainly to a greater degree.
There are other aftermarket options, but I still haven't seen a good explanation of why adapting the E-series remote oil filter to an air-to-oil is not a reasonable approach. There's not much closer to OEM spec than that...
Edited to add:
Before anyone tells me that the E-series filter housing doesn't have a drainback valve... They are cheap. That's not a compelling reason, IMHO.
The BPD remote primary filter is a better setup. It is stronger, holds more oil, and will not break like factory pedistal does. It is also less prone to bypassing and drain back. I use Baldwin BT 349 filters with it. Also have the BPD bypass oil filter with Eab Amsoil filter element. This gets down to about 2 microns. I think this is the perfect combination.
DJ, there are as many canister style filters on the market as their are opinions about oil selection for Powerstroke diesel pickups. Rather than using the filter BPD ships (or it's crossover equivalent), are there other filters available that can flow more oil and/or have higher bypass pressures?
...Rather than using the filter BPD ships (or it's crossover equivalent), are there other filters available that can flow more oil and/or have higher bypass pressures?
So... back when I was deciding between air-to-oil (BPD or DIY) or cooler relocation, I was looking at filter options. This wasn't to pick apart what BPD had done. It was for my DIY version. I wanted to meet the Ford OEM spec as best I could.
The main 6.0L oil filtration system specs (as I understand them) are:
The OEM Parker filter/filtration system is quite impressive. The challenge of matching it in form and function are many – all of which BPD faced, as well. Cost, availability, size, features, … Another issue that BPD had was that they had to choose an on-road filter – whereas we can throw whatever we like on there.
My first observation was that - in order to get the flowrate - you need a good sized filter thread. The micron rating is pretty much hit or miss depending upon what media are available and the geometry (surface area). Bypass valves may or may not be built into the filter element – but they can be found in the filter head. Drainbacks are also hit or miss - but easy to add inline.
My search bounced between just looking around at filter specs and starting with vehicles with high requirements (haul trucks, for instance) and seeing what they used. Anyone looking around will find that not all of the data is always in one place.
There is also the problem of misinformation. This page (Wix Oil Filters Wix Racing filters OEM Replacement filters) suggests that the WIX racing filters can capture to 10 microns. They can - but NOT with anything close to 100% efficiency. The true micron rating for these is somewhere closer to 60 microns.
When I was deciding on what I would put on a DIY cooler, I first decided on a Canton Racing filter but then switched to the E-series remote filter housing. I am listing filters that I was considering so you can figure out if anything is right for you.
In addition, Amsoil has a whole collection of filters for big euipment. The line is rated to 20 microns at 98% efficiency. They do not list GPMs, though. - ref 9
Canton Racing has some interesting filters. You can either buy a canister mounts in the engine compartment or you can buy a billet spin-on cannister that goes on your own filter head. The specs of the CM-45 billet canister+filter are 45GPM with an 8 micron rating. ref - 10 & 11
Again... no bypass in your filter element or delete plate - you gotta have it the head. No drainback - put a valve inline.
Hope this helps.
Edited to add...
Some of the DIY setups used parallel filter head/filters. That's a great way to open up a whole bunch more possibilities of filters. Two 12 GPM (let's say) 20 micron filters are easy to find. ...and cheap.
I would like to clarify something about the above referenced filters for those of us that already have an existing BPD filterhead. You would have to change the filterhead to be able to use the above filters.
While the WIX/NAPA/Carquest filter that BPD includes with their kit has a 1 x 12 thread....
The Donaldson filter has a 1 1/2 x 12 thread
The Baldwin filters above require M95 x 2.5
The WIX filters (51792 and 51792XE) have a 1 1/2 x 16 thread
The WIX filter 51971 has a 1 5/8 x 12 thread
Valuable information provided by djmaguire, THANKS! As NCY points out the filter head of the BPD is 1x12 threads and it looks like most of the filters that meet the required specs won't fit that head. So now my questions are:
1) Have folks with the BPD system found and use a filter that meets the OEM specs that djmaguire list?:
The main 6.0L oil filtration system specs (as I understand them) are:
Max Flow Rate: 18 GPM @ 3300RPM
Filtering capability: 20 micron rating (near 100% efficiency)
By-Pass Valve : 20 PSI
2) Has anyone changed the BPD filter head to one that accepts a better filter? And if so, would they share information about the head? Does it have a by-pass valve, drain back?
Maybe the only option is adding the BPD bypass oil filtration kit for another $350? Or maybe I'm over thinking this since my goal is to keep my truck for the long term and eliminate concerns about future oil cooler and EGR cooler failures.
If someone is looking to make a change, the Fram - taken at face value - would be pretty painless. It has an internal bypass at 22 PSI and - depending upon who you believe - anti-drainback, also. That would mean that any head of that thread size would work.
I recently did the kit and am very happy I did the relocation. The filter is monstrous and you no longer have the bullsh*t plastic pieces that can fail in the OEM setup.
What kind of problems do you see caused by oil not being filtered enough?
I really don't think that many common problems in the 6.0 are caused by the OEM filtration. My thinking of this is if the bypass valve in the oil cooler goes on at 20 psi, any oil above 20 psi would not be filtered anyway. I do not have a low pressure oil gauge on my truck, but I'm sure it's higher than that driving down the highway, and if not, it's higher than that on a cold start until the oil warms up. If the going down the highway pressure is 40 psi, then it's only filtering half the oil anyway, so unfiltered oil is going through the bypass valve. Because of this, especially on a cold start, the OEM oil filter is a bypass filter because up 50% of the oil goes through the bypass valve.
I think bad oil would cause base engine problems. Aside from Head Gaskets, which our gasket problems are not related to gritty oil oil, the 6.0 does not really go bad with a base engine problem.
That being said, I do plan on getting some type of bypass filter, either a Amsol 2 micron filter or a centrifugal filter for much smaller filtration, but a bypass filter is at the end of my to do list.
Bypass valves in oil filters are differential, not absolute. That means that if the input pressure is, say, 60 PSI, and the output/system pressure is 40 PSI, then a 20 PSI bypass will begin to let unfiltered oil through. This is to prevent a filter clogged with impurities from starving the engine. Crappy lubrication is still better than none at all...
Therein lies the problem of low filter flow ratings, low filter bypass pressures, and thick oil. They cause an oil filter to do nothing at all. As the demand on a filter exceeds its capability, the filter gives up and lets the oil pass by.
I'm not going to comment much on why it is good to meet an OEM filtration spec for oil beyond saying that an HEUI injection system puts a special burden on the oil system.
My comments are not to suggest not doing the BPD air-to-oil. ...and certainly not to suggest not having a remotely mounted filter. It's just about meeting OEM specs.
I think that the OEM Parker unit is pretty impressive, actually. That's opinion, though.
My original thinking of going remote was mostly to clear the valley. I ended up going with an oil cooler relocation, so the question is moot for me. But, if I had done a remote filter, I would've tried to better meet OEM specs. Why? Well... why not? Between the aftermarket and E-series options, it seemed kinda pointless not to.
My comments are not to suggest not doing the BPD air-to-oil. ...and certainly not to suggest not having a remotely mounted filter. It's just about meeting OEM specs.
I think that the OEM Parker unit is pretty impressive said:
had[/I] done a remote filter, I would've tried to better meet OEM specs. Why? Well... why not? Between the aftermarket and E-series options, it seemed kinda pointless not to.
I'm feeling the same...it's about meeting OEM specs. I don't pretend to have the knowledge and experience of the engineers at Bullet Proof, but I wonder why they went with the Wix remote filter, rather than one that meets or exceeds OEM specs? It looks like my only options are going with the remote filter and then add the secondary bypass filter, or with the oil/air cooler and OEM filter. But then you still have the possible OEM filter valve problems.
I don't think BPD would be BPD if they didn't already have a successful shop that allowed them to delve into the product development game.
To make a product for a single application on a single engine is not a formula to get rich, merely an ancillary side venture. I, for one, am super happy they did. Of all the things I worry about on my truck, my BPD setup never enters my mind.
Are you suggesting that BPD put more engineering into the 6.0 oil filter than International? Because, that's what it sounds like you are suggesting.
I'm not going to argue. People can fill up with paint thinner, if they want. What's weird is that it seems like if someone gets on here and suggests buying anything other than a Motorcraft oil filter for the stock canister, they get their butt handed to them in a bag. But someone else asks if an OEM spec can be better met on a BPD system and we're all idiots for even discussing it.
No bashing on my part. Not sure I recall calling anyone an idiot either, if you took it that way I'm not sure what to to tell you.
All I am saying is the bpd kit is used and abused by thousands of people including the company on a daily basis and I have never read of ONE instance where the offered relocated filtration caused any issues.
Where is the proof that coolant filtration systems help. Sure, there is junk in the filters when we change them, but would it really matter if it stayed there. How can we know without question that - if left alone - it would clog an OEM cooler. Where is the proof?!
^^^ That was rhetorical.
The truth is that we can't know for sure. Just as we don't know if injectors last 20% longer if oil filters aren't pushed into bypass as much.
The BPD guys are smart. I know that. I'm a BPD customer, too. But out of spec is out of spec. ...and if someone wants to get back in spec, it seems odd to have to brace for the inevitable suggestion that the design is somehow beyond reproach. There is no design that is beyond competent analytical review - even if it is only to confirm that, damn, they got it right.
I pushed back a bit hard, @joe blow. Sorry for that. I just like discussing engineering based on data. Anything that hints of rooting for a sports team takes away from that.
I use the steel plate that came w/ and also added flap ! The filter head & hose were exposed to road slush (snow & salt )
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