weld the egr cooler ?? - Page 3 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #21 of 84 Old 07-28-2009, 05:36 AM
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Originally Posted by jsr86 View Post
the only problem i see with this is if the cooler fails internally, the coolant would leak into the exhaust........part of the cooler and come in contact with all of the carbon and soot built up in there and and that would eventually contaminate the coolant. not sure if it would do any harm though...
If your egr has not failed prior to sealing, then it is highly unlikely it ever would. Even if it did (or already had for that matter), a small crack that allowed coolant to seep into the sealed off exhaust section wouldn't exactly make a flowing current. It's not like it would somehow dump a ton of crap into your coolant. It's really a non-issue in my opinion. If mine looks really dirty when I get it off then I'll clean/soak it with a solvent, flush it, and blow it out with a compressor. The ones I've looked at here weren't too dirty to begin with fwiw. I expected far more carbon than I found.
I'm just waiting on the welder to get back (I want nice neat welds!) before I get mine done.

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post #22 of 84 Old 08-01-2009, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
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I am using a freeze plug to block off the exhaust, from entering the cooler and I made a blank to put in where the exhaust enters the intake. The blake is made out of a .010 stainless steel shim. I just used the gasket as a template. Easily removable if needed.

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post #23 of 84 Old 08-01-2009, 08:04 PM Thread Starter
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Oh! It cost me $1.30 for the freeze plug. Saved $500+...

2004 F250 CC SWB
4" silverline exhaust turbo back
EDGE EZ programmer
Liberator EGR delete
ARP studs
AFE air intake
2 seater vw sandrail
2006 Joyner 150cc
2004 honda rancher
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post #24 of 84 Old 08-02-2009, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by crazyman25 View Post
Oh! It cost me $1.30 for the freeze plug. Saved $500+...
and a big headache after it burns through. maybe you will get lucky but for some of us it just isnt worth doing things twice.

i hate taking things apart more then once and if i dont have the money (which im not saying you dont) then i dont touch something till i do. FCDP's kit is worth every penny IMO

-Evan

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Yeah, but your trucks a freak of nature...
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post #25 of 84 Old 08-02-2009, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Variable556 View Post
The last I checked a welded shut egr cooler comprised one part. I also do care about stock appearance, but that's just me. I don't sell delete kits, and I don't like spending extra money for kits I personally don't believe I need, so my opinion may vary. I don't go campaigning on threads about egr delete kits or anything either, but this thread is about welded egr coolers so I'm just chiming in my .2

Last I checked, the egr cooler outer body is pretty substantial, so how is all of that 'expanding coolant pressure' going to even develop (let alone rupture the outer body) when exhaust gasses don't even enter the cooler to begin with? Additionally (and this is just my opinion), I'd hardly call a properly welded cooler 'jerry rigged' compared to some of the delete kits I have seen for sale (I only said some). Maybe I'm just ignorant and delusional but that's just me.

The way I understand it (and it was explained repeatedly) egr cooler failures result from differential expansion of the cooler's interior matrix which contains the flow of exhaust gasses, hence they crack internally and then leak. It's not from coolant pressure. Puking is a seperate issue (that is also eliminated with either route). Either way those are moot points when exhaust gasses no longer even enter the cooler to begin with.

I'm not trying to pick a fight. Physics simply are what they are. If I'm misunderstanding what I'm looking at, then I'd like to learn what it is. I'll gladly acknowldge my fault if I'm wrong. I'm just pretty convinced I'm not.


A properly welded cooler (ie w/ proper metal, proper weld techniques, and welded at both ends) will work. Plain and simple. You really should also get a tune that will properly adjust for no exhaust gas recycle. It is the most eficient thing to do for your combustion system (and there are a lot of parts that depend on the cleanest burn possible).

Past that, folks are paying extra for:
1. insurance against "low probability" failures (ie the plates or welds failing)
2. looks
3. advertising

Mark
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Last edited by bismic; 08-02-2009 at 09:12 PM.
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post #26 of 84 Old 08-02-2009, 07:30 PM
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well imo if you got the time, patients, and money (to do it again if it fails) then go for it! unfortunately i do not have any of the three..... although i do know about welding. i agree with Bismic that if done correctly THE WELDS should hold. im not a mech though so i can just say that its yours do with what you will.... my 03 6.0 is going to get out of the shop tomorrow.. and im not trying to sell anyone on anything. but i put an full egr delete from liberator and its got warranty, again no patients!! but hey we all have downfalls. none of us like to be told were wrong but .010 is pretty thin and welds die from vibrations........

SMOKE AINT BROKE
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post #27 of 84 Old 08-02-2009, 07:45 PM
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I have a friend that is welding a spare up-pipe for me w/ 1/8 inch stainless plate. I personally would never use a freeze plug.

Mark
06 F250CC SB FX4 Lariat;ARP studs;OEM gaskets; Banks exhaust;DynaTrac Ball joints;Coolant filter; High-Idle;RACCCV6000;JimmiJammers;Ravelco;SynchroMax trans case;Fumoto valves;Harpooned;CPOhighwayProducts toolbox;tracrac;Fox Weatherboots;Wet Okole Seat Covers;BriteBox;Re-flashed;Quadzilla Recon XZT Fuel Press;Blue FPR spring;DashDAQ;PHP FICM;RiffRaff boots;DCPower270AXP;PowerInverter;Rancho7000's; BPD EGR cooler;One-piece HPOP fitting;BilletWaterPump;SCT w/ Matts SRL;ELC Ultra
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post #28 of 84 Old 08-02-2009, 08:02 PM
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wow thats the root hot fill and cap all at once. but the pipe is holding pressure not try to stop it........

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post #29 of 84 Old 08-02-2009, 08:05 PM
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like v556 said thats just my two pennies

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post #30 of 84 Old 08-02-2009, 08:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bismic View Post
A properly welded cooler (ie w/ proper metal, proper weld techniques, and welded at both ends) will work. Plain and simple. You really should also get a tune that will properly adjust for no exhaust gas recycle. It is the most eficient thing to do for your combustion system (and there are a lot of pasrts that depend on the cleanest burn possible).

Past that, folks are paying extra for:
1. insurance against "low probability" failures (ie the plates or welds failing)
2. looks
3. advertising
Already done.

Spartan Phalanx with Aggressive Street Economy tune. EGR = OFF! (EGR Duty Cycle = 0%)

2007 F350 6.0L Lariat FX4
CC/LB SRW automatic
Spartan Phalanx Tuner with ASE and Heavy Tow w/Brake tunes (Updated Hybrid Race still pending)
Phidgets Thermocouple assembly
NUC oil bypass filtration
4" MBRP off road stainless turbo back
Zoodad
Foglight mod (for PIAA 510's)
Readylift Hybrid SST Lift/level kit (3.5")
Factory 20"s with 37x12.5" Nitto Trail Grapplers
Road Armor bumper w/Lonestar guard & PIAA 510 and 540 driving lights
EGR turned off, not deleted yet, still in the works...
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