7.3 givin me troubles

[workin4my350]

went on mandatory vacation.

Before I left, I changed the oil, checked valve cover harnesses (nothing) and still acted up. Tried it this morning and still acted up. Just went out to try it again, and the grimlens must have moved to my next project. What gives?

other than the small tranny slip it is a ok?

I know the saying is, if it aint broke dont fix it, but talk about being scared to drive down the road.

I hate the dealer, but anyone got any other ideas?

I do have a vw I been working on about 85% done. Might have to trade the mule in on a goat.

What do you guys got to say about this issue?

The harnesses looked fine, and if they were tost (internally) would they fix them selves?

I think the oil, presure might have been low, and when I changed it, it might have taken a second to cycle or? And now might be fine?

Im saving up to drive the thing to Ark. TO get Brian to touch up the tranny, so hope I aint looking at killing off before I get her there.

Thanks,

Bill

[symbols]

The valve cover harness could be intermittent. Normally they will really act up after the engine gets warm but it will run fine until then. Same thing for the cam sensor.

[workin4my350]

Well,

Since I dont have a scanner, and am having a couple other small(may be big) issues I dont know anything about im going to take it to a dealer that I have friends that work there. If it ends up being the harness I will let you know. Im just not much of a wrench and if I do it wrong it will cost me all my time and maybe more in labor,and parts. Plus I have two other cars in MY shop I am working on, so time is valuable this week.

Sorry to sound like a panzy, just need to know when my limitations are on spot. If it were metal work, I would be all over it.

Hopefully since I have three buddies, that work there (none diesel mechanics thou) I should be ok.

Just never had a good feeling or experience at the dealer.

Will report the findings for all who care.

Bill

[workin4my350]

Ok,

Here's whats up.

Took it to the dealer. I know, I know. My friend there works in the quick lane. Ran over and ran it on the computer. He got a #2 code (what I was told). So he said check under the Drivers side valve cover. I decided to pay the fee (discounted to 30.00) Wich seamed more than reasonable to me since I did not have the tool.

Non the less, I took it home (rough driving). I got it home, removed the turbo/intake tubes, the battery terminals, and the valve cover and guess what. NO.. the connection was not burnt, nor broken. It was disconnected. My theory is the safety snap got warm, the plastic sagged a little and road vibration caused it to vibrate loose?

Im going to look and see if I can zip tie the connection so the tab does not come free.

Question? (I know this is a stupid one), but what is the best socket setup for inserting the rear bolt? Also I did remove the steel oil valve on top of the valve cover with the phillips screws holing it on. Should I replace the o-rings under it? Also I planned on using terminal grease in the connection. WHat do you think?

Sorry to sound like an idiot, just doing the best that I can.

Bill

Im going to work on another project and await a possible answer to some of this..

THANKS!

[Strokeorcroak]

Originally Posted by workin4my350

I did the CPS last year. Is there a tech article on the valve cover harness?

Thanks for the help guys. Really want to keep the truck, just need reliable trailer hauler.

Bill

Smell the oil filler cap... if it smells like anything other than diesel oil its most likely a burnt harness... it will smell very bad though, like burning hair haha

[workin4my350]

Well,

Off to button it up. It was just loose for some odd reason.

Ill let you know if it cleared it up.

Thanks,

Bill

[symbols]

Originally Posted by workin4my350

Ok,

Here's whats up.

Took it to the dealer. I know, I know. My friend there works in the quick lane. Ran over and ran it on the computer. He got a #2 code (what I was told). So he said check under the Drivers side valve cover. I decided to pay the fee (discounted to 30.00) Wich seamed more than reasonable to me since I did not have the tool.

Non the less, I took it home (rough driving). I got it home, removed the turbo/intake tubes, the battery terminals, and the valve cover and guess what. NO.. the connection was not burnt, nor broken. It was disconnected. My theory is the safety snap got warm, the plastic sagged a little and road vibration caused it to vibrate loose?

Im going to look and see if I can zip tie the connection so the tab does not come free.

Question? (I know this is a stupid one), but what is the best socket setup for inserting the rear bolt? Also I did remove the steel oil valve on top of the valve cover with the phillips screws holing it on. Should I replace the o-rings under it? Also I planned on using terminal grease in the connection. WHat do you think?

Sorry to sound like an idiot, just doing the best that I can.

Bill

Im going to work on another project and await a possible answer to some of this..

THANKS!

I think I used a short extension and short socket As long as the gasket is not tor or anything it should be fine. Don't bother with terminal grease.

[workin4my350]

Well,

She runs like a champ. Now to get the tranny swapped. I did use terminal grease. But should be no problem. I also zipped tied the connection. Hope does not cause a problem.

Got it all together Sat Morning. Took 2.5 hours all together.

Thanks for the insight on it all guys!!!! Im thinking of doing the other side so not to have an issue. Seems as it likes to come apart.

Anyone know if it coming apart is what burns them up?

Bill