Loud Popping, Bent rocker arm/pushrod

[Acer2428]

So here's my saga:

I drove from Indiana to Iowa to work on a project with a buddy.

It's an '01 w/ less than 90k miles that I bought about two months ago. Cruising through town on my way to get parts for a new project, about 40mph through this little town and all of a sudden it sounded like I got a flat tire.

THUD THUD THUD THUD THUD, but it increased with engine speed. Limped it 100 yards to the nearest turnoff, popped the hood and it was a VERY loud POP POP POP POP POP POP through the breather, driver's bank, with the hood open, shut it off.

Saw a small, but alarming amount of what was probably oil on the flatbed when they were hauling it up. I had just changed my oil two days previous, so it was hard to tell (vs diesel). Didn't know if the valve cover had pressurized or it was an injector spewing diesel?

Had it hauled to a diesel/performance shop about 80 miles away. They called and said it had a bent/broken pushrod and a bent rocker arm, which is what I expected.

HOWEVER, when they replaced the parts and fired it back up, it immediately re-bent/broke the same parts.

The truck is chipped, but was set on the lowest non-stock/econo setting, 1400-1600 rpms, not on it at all.

They're still working on it, but I'd like to see if you guys have a guess? Bent valve? Goobered cam lobe?

It seemed to run fine, which made me think it'd eliminate it being a HPOP issue. I thought maybe it spit a turbo line and fried the turbo, but what do I know.

Why the heck would I have a bent valve/piston contact on such an easy/low RPM's run? Truck was fully warmed up too. You'll have to forgive my ignorance, as this is my first diesel, but I come from a history of performance cars and gas trucks.

Thanks for all the help!

[bigcountrysg]

They should be looking at the cylinder head. Also since it was a bent pushrod and broken rocker arm. I would be wondering if the valve clearance/backlash was set properly. I would also be looking at the lift to see if it is stuck up. Which would cause the piston to slap the valve. You need to pull the head and inspect this stuff.

[Acer2428]

It's at the shop about 300 miles away (Illinois Dyno Center), but I have full faith in them. Just wondering what I'm dealing with...

And if I can turn this into a power rebuild

[bigcountrysg]

Originally Posted by Acer2428

It's at the shop about 300 miles away (Illinois Dyno Center), but I have full faith in them. Just wondering what I'm dealing with...

And if I can turn this into a power rebuild

Sure you can pull the engine and build the crap out of it. If your pocket book allows you to do that.

[Acer2428]

I've been working on Mustangs, Novas, and Chevy gassers for a long time now.

What I meant is that I'm already paying for the labor to tear down at least one bank. Will probably head-stud it with one head off, bigger turbo, and bigger injectors down the line.

[bigcountrysg]

Originally Posted by Acer2428

I've been working on Mustangs, Novas, and Chevy gassers for a long time now.

What I meant is that I'm already paying for the labor to tear down at least one bank. Will probably head-stud it with one head off, bigger turbo, and bigger injectors down the line.

If your going to stud one head. You have to do the other as well. No point in doing half the job. But I have not heard of anyone studding a 7.3L.

[Marty]

My 7.3 is studded

[SCUFFY828]

Originally Posted by Maintain

My 7.3 is studded

mine to

[bigcountrysg]

I am not saying it is not done. I just haven't heard of many people doing it.

But you two would stud a lawn mower engine.

[Marty]

haha... when you're pushing 5-600 rwhp typically you build it so it won't break