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2005 6.0 L puffing black smoke

7K views 22 replies 5 participants last post by  firefighter254 
#1 ·
Well here is what i have going on i have a 2005 6.0 psd stock with 220k miles i have never had any issues with this truck until now, 2 months ago i had a hpop leak and a bad ipr valve and it was fixed also i changed the cam and crank shaft sensors, friday morning i went to start the truck and it would sound like it was going to start but it would die, on and on forever. finally i plug the truck in for 1 hour, came back and it finally started. but it started realy bad like an old mack truck, it puff's black smoke and wont get over 1000 rpms. i read some similar post on this website and decided to change the egr valve and pull the turbo out to clean it and its all back togheter but the problem is still there :doh: any suggestions? after all i think this is a great truck and i love it i know it will get over this, Go FORD!!!:icon_ford:

video link of what my truck is doing:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sbvnqhPs7FM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MiMunVdL16Q
 
#7 ·
Most EGR valves make it white smoke? I thought he said he put a new EGR in it on another thread.

well got the egr problem fixed but now im dealing with the turbo the tech said that it may be stuck in the closed position because i have no power and the turbo psi is too high, thanks for all the advise on the egr issue it realy work well
Does the truck idle with a rumble or does it sound like a hair dryer?
 
#9 ·
my bosses truck did the same as yours. its an 06 with less than 50k on it. it ended up being a bad injector flooding a cylinder or some bs. if its poofing black smoke its just dumping fuel in at an unmetered rate, i would say injector :dunno:
 
#12 ·
no he never plugged it in it would just barely run and poor black smoke out, hopefully its a bad injector, those arent to bad to change since you'll have to do it yourself, only way to find out is run a scanner
 
#15 ·
might be ficm, only way to really know is to get a good computer scan, not a programmer that scans they dont tell you ****. haha, like a dealer or tech to run a scan will tell you whats crackin in that motor good luck! let me know what it was
 
#18 ·
oh it had about 30 codes on the pcm the tech deleted all of them but 6 of them came back they are all conected to the engine harness and all of this parts have been replaced and still no chnage.....egr valve, cam and crank shaft sensor, mass sensor, evp sensor and the vgt sensor, tech said i might have a bad harness its this possible? he also said that there was nothing else wrong with the truck said he reflashed the pcm and ficm and took it just fine.
 
#19 ·
It sure doesn't sound like the servicing tech is very familiar with diagnosing these engines, by the way you are describing things. I would either try another dealer, or an independent that is equipped with a scanner that can read the following data:

FICM_L: should read 11.0 to 12.0 volts at key-on/engine-off and remain steady while you crank the engine.

FICM_M: should read 47.5 to 48.0 volts at key-on/engine-off and remain steady while you crank the engine.

FICM_V: should read 11.0 to 12.0 volts at key-on/engine-off and remain steady while you crank the engine.

ICP V: should read 0.25 volts at key-on/engine-off and climb to minimum 0.8 volts while you crank the engine.

ICP: should read 0 psi at key-on/engine-off and climb to minimum 500 psi while you crank the engine over.

IPR Duty Cycle: should read 14.84% at key-on/engine-off and climb to around 50% as you crank the engine over.

FICM_SYNC: should read "NO" at key-on/engine-off and change to "YES" when you crank the engine over.

SYNC: should read "NO" at key-on/engine-off and change to "YES" when you crank the engine over.

V_PWR: should indicate around 12 volts at key-on/engine-off and drop to no lower than 9.5 volts while cranking the engine over.

RPM: should indicate around 175 to 200 as you crank the engine over. Any slower, and it's not cranking fast enough.

Fuel pressure spec is 56 psi, and no lower than 45 psi under load. This can be measured by connecting a fuel pressure gauge to the secondary fuel filter housing port that requires a 6mm allen key to remove.

EVERYTHING I've listed above, is what is needed to achieve a 6.0L engine that starts. You now need to find out which of the above is missing.
 
#22 ·
FICM_M is THE most important data to look at, of all three. And at 20.5 volts, YES it is definitely gone. This would be the cause of your problems. To replace it, will require programming of the new one at the dealership.
 
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