Wrong filter cap / No start - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 07-08-2014, 01:43 PM
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Wrong filter cap / No start

Hey guys, I just found out Ive been using the wrong filter cap with an OEM filter. Ive been doing this since I had the truck (about 40k miles). It has ran perfect until now, and every time I changed the filter, it was soaked in oil, so I never suspected any issues. This latest oil change has gone about 5k miles. Now for the problem... For about the past month, ~4k miles post oil change, the truck took about 10 seconds to start when it was cold. After that the truck ran perfect. All starts once it was warm were fine. Now, I pulled into work and shut down the truck. When I went to start again, it would not start at all. I am also not showing LP oil pressure on the dash gauge after 10-15 sec of starting. I wont be able to tear into the engine for another week or so, and by then I will have the autoenginuity software and the time to diagnose. I have read a lot about diagnosing the HPOP system, but what I'm really worried about, is what kind of dame I may have done to my engine by using the wrong filter housing. I forgot to mention, the filter looks like it was filtering oil (black), but when I pull it out, it does look dry. I also tested to see if the bowl was capable of filling with oil by cranking and pressing down on the drain, and it did fill up within about 10 seconds of cranking. The filter was also undamaged. I have never had any issues with over heating, or low oil pressure. I always watch the gauges because I'm aware of some of the psd issues. I have done an EGR delete, but I do still have coolant blowing out of the reservoir sometimes (crusties on the reservoir). I'm guessing if some foreign particle bypassed my filter, they went through the IPR valve, nd worst case, could damage my injectors? Is that the worst it could have done?

Last edited by Topherz82; 07-08-2014 at 01:49 PM. Reason: more info
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Old 07-09-2014, 04:10 PM
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Update: I installed the right cap and got it started. It took about two 25 second cranks to get it started. I figured that was normal since there was probably air in the system. I drove it all the way to the house (about 15 miles), and it ran fine. I re-started it once I made it home, and it takes about 5 seconds to crank over (which isn't normal for this truck when hot), before it starts, it make a stalling type noise, then starts and runs fine. I have attached a video of the start. I will see how it cold starts tomorrow. I'm guessing I still have a bad seal somewhere in the HPOP system huh?
Attached Files
File Type: avi movie 1.avi (1.22 MB, 10 views)
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Old 07-09-2014, 07:39 PM
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1. You need something to monitor the vitals with. ScangageII or something similar. This will tell you what your ICP and IPR % are. Those will get you going in the right direction. However it sounds like you have a high pressure oil leak somewhere; dummy plugs, stand pipes, STC fitting (depending on year) or injector o rings. Will need to test the HPO system...

2. The crusties on the dgas bottle are not good and are the result of an over pressurized cooling system. Since you have no egr, suspect the head gaskets. Will need to test for pressure spikes in the cooling system...

3. Get a monitor. It will show you these things before they start...
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Old 07-14-2014, 05:33 PM
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I still don't have the money for autoenginuity yet, but I pulled the IPR valve. The screen was not damaged. I applied 12v to the terminals and all it does is make a barely audible click. Nothing moves internally that I can see. I have 5ohms between the two terminals. I re-installed the IPR and put shop ir through the IPC hole. Right away I could hear air in the L/H valve cover. I applied voltage to the IPR and nothing changed. I pulled the oil filler cap, and the air was blowing put the filler hole. If I understand the system correctly, that should never happen. So, I will pull the valve covers next and check to see if I can narrow it down. If I find a single bad oring, It's probably a good idea to replace all the packing while I'm in there. What are the most important things I should replaced while I'm in there. Stand pipe, dummy plugs, nipple cups, and what else?
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Old 07-18-2014, 04:47 PM
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Autoenginuity is on the way! However, I don't think I'll need it right now if I can get someone to confirm my suspicion. I've attached a video of the IPR valve. I apply 12V and all it does is click. I don't want to take it apart until somebody tells me that's not normal. IPR.avi
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Old 07-19-2014, 11:07 PM
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can someone Please Watch The Video Above And Tell Me If That's Normal IPR operation?
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Old 07-26-2014, 10:18 PM
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I was pretty sure the problem was the IPR valve, because when I air checked the system through the icp hole, and activated the ipr valve, I never heard a change in the tone of the air leak. Well, today I plugged up the ipr valve and air checked it again. Same obvious air leak out of the R/H valve cover. The leak is so loud, it is amazing the truck still starts. I pulled the R/H dummy plug, and sure enough, the oring was shot. I put a different oring on it and reinstalled, just to check for other leaks. I heard a slight leak on the same side but deeper in the engine. Then I pulled the standpipe and the top part pretty much fell out. I'm guessing the connecting oring was leaking. I'm going to get a kit from prebledieselperformance.com that has the dummy plugs, standpipe, STC fitting, and blue spring mod. Any other cheap things I should do while I'm in there? I don't have the money right now for head studs since I would also have to have the heads decked, and get new head gaskets. I already have an EGR delete and new oil cooler.
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