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Old 06-30-2014, 03:53 PM
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Need Help with Code P012F Oil Cooler

The wrench light came on intermittently on a recent road trip so I asked a tech friend to check it out. The result was a P012F code. He said normally, it could just be a sensor but the truck was very low on coolant (close to full before I left) less than 450 round trip, and only hauling a Harley in the back, no trailer.

The Truck has 144,000 on it and just had the Turbo cleaned. Tech suggested an EGR delete but Bulletproof Diesel recommended against that.

I don't plan on keeping the truck forever, but I don't want to have to replace the oil cooler and EGR cooler again in a couple of months. Can anyone please point me in the right direction as to exactly what I should do, as well as the most cost effective place to purchase the parts etc....The Semi bulletproof kit is around $975 from Bulletproof diesel, and comes with an OEM oil cooler and upgraded EGR cooler. I appreciate any advice anyone can give.

Thank you,

Bobby
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Old 07-02-2014, 10:34 AM
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Anybody? Checked the EGR Valve and no evidence of coolant.
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Old 07-06-2014, 09:09 PM
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I'm assuming you have the 6.0, just from a couple of your past posts.

I would start by eliminating the cheapest issue, which could be as simple as a cracked degas container or a faulty cap. You may just want to take the degas bottle out and check it. It takes about 20 minutes. A new degas cap is 10$. Also make sure you have the correct fill line. There is the one etched on the side of the older containers, then there should be an updated sticker on the side. I would only fill to the MIN line.

Then I would check your oil and coolant deltas. If you don't have a Gauge I would just get the cheaper ScanGauge version which is around 100-150 bucks.

Next I would do a PSI gauge test on the coolant. You can get the parts for about 50$. Your PSI should be below 10. An increased PSI could be from bad coolant, too much water in the coolant, ruptured EGR cooler, plugged oil cooler, bad headgasket or cracked head.

If you in fact need a new oil cooler and EGR I would do (and have done) the BPD egr cooler and an OEM ford oil cooler. I would stick with an OEM cooler and not do the aftermarket coolers.

1-2 weeks prior to your oil cooler swap I would go ahead and do a full flush using restore and restore plus. There is a stick on it in the 6.0 section. It takes a good 8-12 hours to do correctly.

I would probably do the cheaper bypass coolant filter ($140) as well.

The above should fix your issue as long as you don't have blown headgaskets or bad heads.

Hope that helps some.
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