7.3L stopped will not start - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 11-09-2008, 04:02 PM
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7.3L stopped will not start

I have an early 99 F250 SD 7.3L and it has 600k miles on it (all highway at 12 hrs/day). I have a no start symptom. It ran on 7 about 600 miles ago for approximately 5 minutes until I gunned it on the highway where it cleared up. Since then it seemed that one cylinder was weak as the mpg and power was down by 10 -15% as well it shuttered slightly in idle and in gear) Just recently the same scenario happened where I ran it to temperature for 2 hours on a small trip and then shut off for 10 minutes and restarted when it began to run on 7. It ran like that for approximately 1 minute before I shut it off. 3 days later I started the engine and again it was running on 7 for about 1 minute when it began to knock hard and rpm began dropping as if it was going to stall, I turned it off in fear of a hydrolock. I manually turned the engine over to verify it was not hydrolocked and it wasn't. I then removed the valve covers and all glowplugs to do a compression test that yielded numbers of 380- 420 psi, so engine is still good. I pulled DTC's using my superchip programmer where it yielded a 1211 code(ICP pressure were either too high or too low). I suspected a bad injector combined with a low HP oil pressure situation. I then performed a pressure test on the HPOP. I disconnected both high pressure lines from the heads and installed a plug on one and a 0-6000 psi gauge on the other. The glowplugs were also removed and batteries had a good charge, I cranked the engine and after about 10-30 seconds the gauge starts to read and quickly spikes up to 3900 psi and remains there after several strokes. I used the same procedure to test the the passenger side bank with the injector wiring harness disconnected which yeilded the same result. I then tested the driver side and it came up to 2900 psi for about 2 or 3 strokes and then dropped to 2300 psi where it stabilized. I concluded that there was an oil pressure leak in the driver bank. Is this a severe enough leak to drop the HP oil pressure to below the minimum start pressure requirement?
I replaced Hole #2 injectior with a new one and the remaining ones (#4, #6 and #8) with known working injectors from a 2002 and retested the oil pressure system which yeilded the still same result. I do not have a scanner nor do I know anyone with a portable unit. There a re no visible oil leaks on the outside of the engine around the HP line conections, HPOP, IPR and the ICP sensor. The leak must be internal? Being that the HPOP has two outlets is it possible that they are producing different pressures to each other? I wonder if it is smart to plumb in a porta-power hydraulic jack to one port in the oil rail on teis driver side in place of the Ford HP line? This should be able to test the integrity of the high pressure oil system in the driver head specifically? I would expect that if this test was feasable it would require that the key is on with engine off in order that the IPR remains closed, would it work?
Is it possible that the oil pressure rail and porting in ther head could be cracked? This does not seem likely since the original fail-to-run symptom was that it began running on 7 then slowly reduced rpm until it eventually would have stalled (as mentioned I shut it off prior to that).


I am totally stumped?
I would love to hear feedback.

Regorstangnut
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Old 11-09-2008, 04:07 PM
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Not sure about your problem but let's see some pics of this 600k mile Superduty!
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Old 11-09-2008, 04:15 PM
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600k
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Old 11-09-2008, 04:25 PM
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wow 600k.

does it crank and not fire up?
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Old 11-09-2008, 04:28 PM
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Old 11-09-2008, 04:34 PM
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Yes it does crank but will not fire. During my first attempt at starting it when it initially stalled I cranked and cranked it and it almost fired (as if it was recovering from a empty fuel tank situation). That was the best it would do. The day I tried it and it would not fire at all. I checked my lift pump and it does buzz with ign on, the fuel filter housing was charged with fuel when I opened the yellow drain valve at the filter housing (so it is gettin fuel). Has good compression. No idea what the $#)$(*$#&# is goin on!!
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Old 11-09-2008, 04:43 PM
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ok so it wont fire.

im gonna think out loud

for a engine to fire you need air fuel and oil pressure.

you did a cyl compression and passed. so no leaks on valves or seals.

injectors need oil pressure to fire properly.
fuel needs to be present in the cyl

are your glow plugs are in working order. just asking. you said it almost fired up when it died. so engine was warm. but now no signs of firing when cold.


how fast does it crank
have you looked at your oil and coolant to see if they are contaminated?
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Old 11-09-2008, 04:55 PM
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well it could be leaking pressure from a number of places or you might just have a bad high pressure oil pump those pressures are really low the HUI sytem requires about 5000 to 5500 psi of oil pressure to open those injectors also if you dont keep up on your oil changes sounds like you do though i wouldnt imagine that engine lasting that long with out regular oil changes but the reason i say this is because the clearences inside the injectors are in the thousandths and even the slightest bit of soot or grit in the oil can destroy an injector along with the pump but other than that i really cant help ya with out being there to see what it is doing by the way so you dont just dissmiss this advice i know my **** i graduated from nashville diesel college and i am currently attending ohio technical college for diesel tech but hope it helped
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Old 11-09-2008, 05:02 PM
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Pics of the 600k Mile Lariat

Here are some pics of the F250 SD supercab, SB 4X4. The original owner had lived in it for 12 hours a day while driving from Alberta, Canada to Texas once or twice a month. He was a pilot truck driver. The truck has alway been run on synthetic fluids trough the entire running gear. He claims that he chaged the synthetic engine oil every 15,000 miles. Original engine with only 3 inkectors replaced, on water pump, alternator, is on its 3rd tranny and second rear diff. The engine is running strng (I have waxed countless CFhev 5.3 Vortec Z-71's and kept head to head with a 2006 400 HP Escalade.

I am frustrated with this no-start scenario and am grasping at any way to rectify the situation.
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Old 11-09-2008, 05:12 PM
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Thanks for the brainstormin q's. The glow plugs I have tested and all of them are equal at .8 ohms, the batteries are strong so I am getting full crankin rpm. Can there be a crack in the oil galleries in the driver's side head (the driver side only reads 2300 psi when dead headed and Experts say that it should be at least 3000)
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