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04 F350 Crank but no start
I have a 2004 F350 Superduty Crew Cab 4x4 with an auto trans. 117000 reasonably trouble free miles on the clock, and the only mod is the addition of a Prodigy trailer brake control. The truck has been running fine, tho it did throw a check engine light a day before this problem started, but it extinguished itself before I could pull any fault codes (3 starts). Anyway, I shut the truck off in the evening, and when I came out the next morning to start it, it would crank but not start. After cranking a bit, it will try to light, but no joy.
I changed the oil about 1500 miles ago, and the level has not changed. When the truck wouldn’t start, I changed the fuel filters and cleaned the EGR valve (which was surprisingly clean for 117k mmiles). No joy. After reading several posts on this site, I used a flashlight and mirror and checked for chaffed wires and loose connectors. I didn’t see any, but it really wasn’t the most in depth check. I also checked all the fuses in the fuse box, and the wiring around the adjustable pedals for chaffing. Nothing found.
I ordered an auto enginuity scan tool with enhanced Ford diagnostics. When I originally pulled DTCs, they included P2614 and P2617, which are CMP and CKP sensor circuit open faults. There were some other fault codes from other systems as well…they haven’t changed. I’ll list them in a minute. I pulled the air filter, coolant overflow tank, FICM and such and did a more thorough inspected all of the wire harnesses for chaffing and loose connections. Again, no joy. I put everything back together, and as the batteries had been disconnected for several hours, all of the DTCs had cleared. For what it’s worth, with all the cranking trying to start the beast, battery voltage was a bit lower than I expected, at about 12.04 volts.
I tried again to start the pig, and again no joy…but the CMP and CKP open codes are gone. It does still throw B1676 ABS Battery Pack Voltage Out of Range; Hybrid Electrronics Cluster codes U1262 SCP (J1850) Communication Bus Fault and B1360 Ignition Run/Acc Circuit Open; Overhead Trip Computer 2 codes P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor A, U2015 Signal Link Fault (Non SCP) and B1342 ECU Is Faulted; and GEM Central Timer codes P1876 Transfer Case 2 Wheel Drive Solenoid failure, 1483 Brake Pedal Input Failure, and B1318 Battery Voltage Low.
I set up the scanner to monitor some of what I thought would be parameters of interest while I tried to start the truck. Some expected stuff…the injector control pressure is pretty solid between 1250 and 2100 psi against a 948 psi “expected pressure”. Last PIP leading edge to last PIP trailing edge varies between .0522 sec and .0539 sec. FICM logic power is between 10.0 and 10.5 volts, FICM Main Power starts at 48 volts and quickly drops to 40 and stays there. CMP status bit stays at 0. CMP Sensor Level Bit stays at 0…and some interstng (I think) stuff…the CMP and CKP are in Sync bit quickly sets to 1, but drops to 0 when I stop cranking. The engine rpm starts at 156, drops to 0 when the CMP and CPK Sync bit sets to 1, and then shows 138 on down as I stop cranking. Finally, the FICM Information for Sync bit sets to 0 when the CMP and CKP Sync bit sets to 1.
If it weren’t for all the codes thrown, I would deduce from the scanner info that my problem is the crankshaft position sensor. (By the way, the “6.0 Bible for 2003” shows the CKP sensor on the right front of the block. I’ll be dipped in dog**** if I can see it there under the AC compressor and engine mount…can someone post up or PM some instructions for changing it? I can’t believe I would have to lift the motor off the mount or remove the A/C compressor…did they move it from 03 to 04?). All of the other codes that the scanner is reporting seem to be unrelated, which makes me think that I still have a wire bundle chaffed or pinched somewhere. Can anyone offer any suggestions? Other parameters to monitor? A location where wires that would impact all of the systems throwing codes are grouped together in a single bundle and any common spots where that bundle may chafe? Other possible causes? Am I on the right track with the CKP sensor?
I’m just about to throw up my hands and call the tow truck to haul the truck off to the Ford store, but the thought of a 30 mile tow bill and $200 “diagnostic fee” on top of whatever it costs to fix the problem are driving me to try just a bit more…
Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions.