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Old 11-08-2013, 05:33 PM
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New to Diesel just got it have problem help newbie

hey Guys and gals, i am new to this site and just bought a 2000 F250 7.3 super D extended cab 8ft bed with 232K off my dad. he got it for a good price and its been sitting around so i took it off his hands. i just ran into an issue yesterday after i drove it to work. when i went out for lunch i turn the key, got power, got lights and puzzers but when i turn the key to start i just get the sound of the fender starter relay clunk. i replaced starter and fender relay but does the same thing....any ideas please help this monster is taking two parking spots at work. thanks all hope you can help
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Old 11-09-2013, 05:33 AM
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Could be a couple of things,,, If the relay clicks the Key sw & Safety sw are OK. Next you gotta think about current getting to the Starter. That's everything from the Batteries themselves to the Starter itself, and ALL the cables & connections in between.

Here's where I'd start. Turn the headlights ON and have someone turn the key while you watch what happens to the headlights brightness.

Do they start out white and go yellow?

Do they start out yellow and go out?

Do they start out white and change little?

Next you can slide under the truck, with a hammer, and "Rap" on the starter body a few times to reseat the Bendix/Brushes, which could be hung, and an early sign it's failing.

In any case, this is the time of year (when your electrical system has to be 100% as it gets colder in order to start in the cold) you need to go over the battery cables & ends. Scrape clean, grease & tighten them all, Both sides, Both polarities. That may be all that you need now.

The batteries are tested by having them fully charged and Load Tested, individually, at a High Rate (250/300A). The Starter you can take out and have tested at the Parts Store.

Good Luck - Let us know about those headlights...
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Old 11-09-2013, 06:37 AM
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thanks for the reply, that was the next direction i was going with today, i ran out or daylight really quick yesterday after work to be fishing around for wires. i have replaced the starter relay and actual starter yesterday during my lunch break. i am thinking i may have a battery or wire issue. now that you mention the lights they were kind of dim but the plastic is kind of cloudy. i am taking my son out there with so i have another set of hands an eyes. now on diesels does plugging them in have any difference on helping the battery stay full or for block heating only?
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Old 11-09-2013, 06:47 AM
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Plugging them in just heats oil to aid in Winter Starts but, unless it's in the Teens (F) or below, you shouldn't actually need it if the Glow Plug system is working properly.

This is how to check it all (before Real Winter arrives ) -> Troubleshooting GPR & GP's

Because that system draws 150+A Plus the starting requirements of a high compression diesel in the cold, it is really important the batteries are Top Quality in Top Condition. This is no place to "scrimp" on a diesel...
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Old 11-09-2013, 05:18 PM
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ok here's what i came up with, i tried to start it again with the lights on they did dim a bit but still would not kick over, just the click from the starter relay. i do notice alot of movement from for the column area, "sloppy" in the linkage. i hooked cables to my car on one battery and the work towmotor to the other. once i let it charge up it still didn't want to turn over from the key, but did from crossing the stater relay terminals? i think i have an issue in the column from the slop and maybe a weak battery. my Dad replaced one battery with a Everlast battery but the other may be going. the dash is reading a strong charge when running. i drove it home "about 30 minute drive" and when home shut it off and would not turn with key. when i have to key on position and cross the terminals the motor will turn. looks like i have to start at column area and see if i have a bad sw somewhere.
thank
Luke
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Old 11-10-2013, 06:46 AM
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Well, see, IF you had a problem with either the Key or the NSSW (NeutralSafetrySwitch on the Trans selector shaft) the signal to trip that relay is broken....

That's how it works, first the key tries to make the relay throw but that path has to go through the NSSW before it gets there. So, while a misaligned NSSW is a common problem from "slop" in the column, a clicking relay is an indication that it's all doing it's job (that "fender relay clunk" you describe).

So, I donno , maybe put a voltmeter on the Outlet (cig ltr) in the cab and see what happens to the voltage when to try to start...

Could that relay not be connected right?
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