blew HPOP oil line now no start - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

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post #1 of 11 Old 09-25-2013, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
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blew HPOP oil line now no start

ok guys need your help.
My passenger side HPOP oil to the head blew on me the other day. I went ahead and replaced BOTH lines. I refilled the oil and HPOP reservoir. At first I wasn't getting any out out of the reservoir. I finally got it to come out so I know reservoir is filled. But it still won't start.
I just picked up a scanner to see if it will tell me anything/ but have yet to do that. I will tomorrow.
is there anything that I can look at or do that the scanner may miss i.e. pull icp sensor and fill oil cavity? I have tried to start with ICP unplugged, still nothing. I had already replaced ICP and pigtail 6 months ago.
Any help would be greatly Appreciated

Thanks Bill

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post #2 of 11 Old 09-25-2013, 05:39 PM
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You need to clear out all the air , it takes some time. Remove your ICP and fill the head with oil and crank the crap out of it.

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post #3 of 11 Old 09-25-2013, 07:14 PM
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You need to clear out all the air , it takes some time. Remove your ICP and fill the head with oil and crank the crap out of it.
What he said^^^^^

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post #4 of 11 Old 09-27-2013, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
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OK guys here is what I have so far. Finally got HPOP to prime. Verified with oil coming out of fill hole during cranking. I removed ICP and passenger side plug to verify oil in heads.
I am narrowing an Autel scope/scanner from a friend. With ICP plugged in, I am showing only 200 psi. With ICP unplugged I read a little over 2200.
I know the 200psi will not allow it to start. So here's my question. When my oil line blew, could it have been from my HPOP going bad? I.e. HPOP caused pressure surge which blew line. And if that is posdible , could it have damaged anything else?
I wanted to go to the T500 HPOP, just not this soon if it could be helped.

Again thanks for all the advice
Bill
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post #5 of 11 Old 09-27-2013, 06:29 PM
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you need to block off one side of the pump and put a gauge on the other side and then check the other side to see what the pump puts out .if the pump makes about 2000 psi cranking then i would say the pump is good.then the most likely senario is a leaking injector

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post #6 of 11 Old 09-30-2013, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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ok guys, while I'm waiting a 3000psi gauge to come in, I started looking for other things that could cause the no start.
I was told to look at the IPR and see if it was stuck, when I unplugged the connector, I found it chaffed, I researched and found this somewhat common. I repaired the connector and tried to start it. The passenger side High Pressure Oil Line ( The side that originally blew) popped out of the connector. Plugged it back in, gave it a really good tug to make sure it was seated. tried it again and just as it started building pressure it popped again. I couldn't get a reading to see when it pops.
So my questions is now this, could I have a blockage in the head or is it most likely a bad connector. I replaced all 4 when I replaced the lines.

Again thanks in advance for your insight
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post #7 of 11 Old 09-30-2013, 11:31 AM
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If it comes off at all , you have a bad connector. How did you get the connections apart when you changed the lines? Did you use the STC tool? The chance of a blockage is very remote ,unless you never changed the oil and its chunky.
When you push the connector together , twist ,push , wiggle while your putting it on .You should almost hear it click.

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post #8 of 11 Old 10-04-2013, 08:48 AM Thread Starter
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i replaced all 4 fittings when I replaced the hoses.
I see that I can block off one to check the pressure, so that answered my question of if the pump was "Deadheading" and continuing to build pressure until it blew that hose off. So im wondering now if I have either a bad fitting or a bad end on the hose not allowing it to stay locked. I am still waiting on the gauge to get here, no one in town had one so had to order it. Then I can check the pressure.
I was wondering if I should go the local Hydraulic shop and get screw fittings and have some lines made that way I don't have to worry about lines blowing off or O-rings leaking down the road
If I do pull the injectors to look for a bad O-ring what should I be looking for? will it be obvious and if I don't see anything are those O-rings reusable?
Now here's another question. what is the oil flow path in the heads from the HPOP. I know there is a High pressure cavity on top that the lines screw into, but how does it get to the injectors and where does it go from there. I know into the block but I'm wondering if one of my return passages could be blocked.
Again sorry for all of the questions, I'm just trying to picture all of this and how everything works together so I can fully understand and stop asking all of these questions

Thanks
Bill

Last edited by bulldogsf350; 10-04-2013 at 08:51 AM. Reason: more questions
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post #9 of 11 Old 10-04-2013, 03:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greasyF250 View Post
If it comes off at all , you have a bad connector. How did you get the connections apart when you changed the lines? Did you use the STC tool? The chance of a blockage is very remote ,unless you never changed the oil and its chunky.
When you push the connector together , twist ,push , wiggle while your putting it on .You should almost hear it click.
Help me understand here . Did you replace the high pressure lines from the HPOP to the heads with the OEM lines that have the stc fittings ( these are hydraulic fittings that you can't replace , they are crimped on the hose) Did you use the STC removal tool
Watch this you tube video and check to see if you have the lock ring inside the HPOP stc fitting
There are Eaton #6 stc caps ,plugs and a fitting that you can screw a gauge into.

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post #10 of 11 Old 10-04-2013, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
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I replaced the fittings that screw into the HPOP and the heads that the new hoses snap into
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