Changed batteries now truck wont crank - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 06-13-2008, 07:38 PM
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Changed batteries now truck wont crank

Hey guys, just swapped batteries out and now the motor wont crank, had to get it towed home from auto parts store..

I can hear the relay click and the batteries are definitely putting out the current. The tow truck driver supposedly hooked jumpers directly to the motor, but I think he was on crank


I'm pretty sure its the starter interrupt from the alarm/remote start, but if any of you have encountered this please let me know!


Kyle
(650) 224-5850
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Old 06-13-2008, 08:22 PM
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I think you are on the right track. I would disable the remote start/alarm system and see if she goes.
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Old 06-13-2008, 08:41 PM
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Also, turn your key on and check your relay to see if it gets hot. If it does then you have high resistance in the relay. More than likely an open on your coil wire.
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Old 06-13-2008, 08:50 PM
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i have swapper the factry starter relay (105 i think it is?), the factory relay is functioning properly, i think that the alarm has a seperate interrupt that im digging through right now


Clifford RSX3.5
http://www.directeddealers.com/manua...9564_07-05.pdf
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Old 06-13-2008, 09:51 PM
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so we put a voltmeter on the start/solenoid


the large gauge wire (going into the solenoid) gets 12v, the smaller wire gets .3v when key is turned, the large guage wire to the starter gets 12v (but at what amperage?) when key is turned
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Old 06-14-2008, 06:23 AM
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How did you hook up the voltmeter on your positive going to the relay? If you do your positive voltmeter lead on your positive cable on the battery and your negative lead on your relay post you shouldn't be getting 12 volts as there would be nothing to resist the current flow. If you hook it up in this way and still get 12 volts it would indicate high resistance in that cable.

Another thing you might want to do is get your hands on an amp clamp your can hook up to your mulitmeter. Then your could check the amperage through your cables to get a better idea of whats wrong. Don't just use the amp setting on your multimeter through, it should have about a 10 amp max, so you would blow the fuse.
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Old 06-14-2008, 11:34 AM
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I have now bench tested the starter and it is functioning properly,

since the factory alarm is somehow still installed, i used that remote to arm/disarm the vehicle, still no luck

I have not found that the relays get hot when key is on, and what i have tested on he voltmeter is the large guage wire going directly into the starter and the small guage wire going into the solenoid.

The solenoid wire is about .3v and the starter wire is getting 12 (with igntion on 'start')

thanks guys!



Kyle
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Old 06-14-2008, 01:42 PM
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Forgive the quality of this drawing, but it should give you a better idea of what to test with your volt meter for a diagnosis.



Using your volt meter, test from point A to B: it should show a minimal drop (in the tenths of a volt or milli volt range)

Across your relay sounds good so skip from B to C.

From C to D: it should also show a minimal drop

From D to ground on your starter motor (motor is internally grounded, so from your positive starter post to a good solid ground)
Have someone crank the motor over, the volt drop on that should be around the 12v range.

From what you've said, it sounds like you have high resistance in your positive cable (due to corrosion more than likely) or a motor that isn't grounding properly. Since the starter works fine on a bench test, I'd start there. Best of luck.
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Old 06-14-2008, 02:32 PM
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D to ground is about 10.5 v, could this be the root of the isssue?

Kyle

btw thanks for your support and diagram!
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Old 06-14-2008, 02:40 PM
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did you make sure the bolts are tight on the battery terminals? or the line running from the battery to to starter could be rusted i had this problem but i dont have the remote start
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