Truck wont start suck at friends house... - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 06-22-2013, 11:46 PM Thread Starter
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Truck wont start suck at friends house...

04 f350 4 dr long bed f350 8 in lift, 35's 53,967 miles heres whats been done so far:
Arps,
sinister egr delete
new oil cooler
new glog plug harneses both side
new up pipes
new black plugs
oem headgasket
edge cs insight for guages and tuned on the sct tuner (trans only egr off)

The work above was done may 2013
11.4 volts battery
46-47 ficm
deltas about 4-8 average
ipr%14 when trying to start

the only thing I noticed was went to redbox about 6 miles away and at the gas station it seemed to barely crank over, thought I didn't let the glow plugs finished so I ignored it.

then around 12:20 am today I went to start the truck to warm up and:

I let the glow plug light turn off and waited til the faint buzzinf sound went away and it barley cranked over and then the whole dash started clicking and flashing all the lights. only code was p603 it happens when ever i have a tune on.

a few months back i was testing the street canned tune and on a freeway entrance i got an ipr low voltage code but after i cleared it it never came back...

I just dumped almost 4k into this thing a month ago what are some places I can start looking its at my friends house now.

thanks for reading the long story...

-2004 F350 CCLB 4x4: Sinister Race solutions kit, CAT ELC Edge CS, SCT SF3, PHP Ficm programmer, Procomp, Rough country, and Nitto goodies.
-2004 excursion, banks exhaust, 03 turbo, afe intake
-2006 f350 king ranch, 10 in fabtech, 40in tires, sct tunes,

currently-1999 F250 SBRB 4X4 First 7.3 and feels good to be back in a diesel....

Interested in learning something new?

http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/pol...verse-day.html


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post #2 of 10 Old 06-23-2013, 01:03 AM
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11.4 volts? Sounds like dead batteries. Replace 'em.



2006 F350 Lariat
EL CAT1 coolant and coolant filter.
95k miles. Oil cooler changed at 93k.
Oversized turbo oil drain tube.
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post #3 of 10 Old 06-23-2013, 01:12 AM Thread Starter
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Im going to check the wire loom and ficm wires, the icp and ipr tomorrow and possibly bring a friend to see if a jump start will fix it.

You really think the batteries are toast? the onlything really different:
when i turn the key on but not engine the injector buzzing goes as normal for a few seconds then the pump really really speeds up and clicks a few times....

when i try to start it sounds really weak, and then it just clicks and the dash cluster freaks out... anyone ever see the ficm m fuse blow either? its kinda late so I watched a few videos on what to look for so im gonna try tomorrow. Im just tired of the money i still owe on this beast...

-2004 F350 CCLB 4x4: Sinister Race solutions kit, CAT ELC Edge CS, SCT SF3, PHP Ficm programmer, Procomp, Rough country, and Nitto goodies.
-2004 excursion, banks exhaust, 03 turbo, afe intake
-2006 f350 king ranch, 10 in fabtech, 40in tires, sct tunes,

currently-1999 F250 SBRB 4X4 First 7.3 and feels good to be back in a diesel....

Interested in learning something new?

http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/pol...verse-day.html


Justin,
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post #4 of 10 Old 06-23-2013, 02:45 AM
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Low voltage can cause a lot of strange things to happen. Your batteries should be up around 12.5-13.5 volts key on not running. It might just be one battery has bitten the dust but I'm sure you're supposed to replace both at the same time if you replace them...



2006 F350 Lariat
EL CAT1 coolant and coolant filter.
95k miles. Oil cooler changed at 93k.
Oversized turbo oil drain tube.
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post #5 of 10 Old 06-23-2013, 06:29 AM
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X2 I would get some new battery's in that beast, you need alot of amps to crank these motors over. If one battery is toast it will drain the whole system and cause the problem you have. Just my .02

Jim

97 F-250 2wd Extended Cab Longbox, Pyro,boost and trans temp guage, 3" down pipe,
New E4OD Trans, TS 6 chip
Banks TransComander, 4" to dual 4" Bullydog 4" Dual Exahust , DIY Tymar intake w/ K&N Filter, Shimmed FPR

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post #6 of 10 Old 06-23-2013, 03:54 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the quick replies and insight on the situation and you guys were right haha. I went to start the truck this morning the batteries still said 11.4 when i used the edge cts, and 12.5 when i tested them with voltmeter but it wouldn't even crank anymore just click....

had my buddy/ roommate who owns a 99 dodge 2500 come jump me and started right up... so 256$ later got some durlast gold 5glg with 850 cold cranks amps and 1000 ca at 32 degrees.... my napa batteries were 84 month but i didn't buy them so they wouldnt warranty them.... the duralast are 3 yr warranty with a 2 yr pro rate so hopefully they last awile.


again thanks for help everyone. I didn't realize how much batteries were required to run the truck once I jumped it and started driving to auto zone all my gauges died and had abs/ battery light on once new batteries fixed. still takes a second to start but its better.

-2004 F350 CCLB 4x4: Sinister Race solutions kit, CAT ELC Edge CS, SCT SF3, PHP Ficm programmer, Procomp, Rough country, and Nitto goodies.
-2004 excursion, banks exhaust, 03 turbo, afe intake
-2006 f350 king ranch, 10 in fabtech, 40in tires, sct tunes,

currently-1999 F250 SBRB 4X4 First 7.3 and feels good to be back in a diesel....

Interested in learning something new?

http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/pol...verse-day.html


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post #7 of 10 Old 06-23-2013, 08:49 PM
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You may want to have your alternator checked as well. Just to be sure. I've spent hours diagnosing no start/goofy electrical issues just to find a dead battery or a loose battery cable. Today's vehicles are very sensitive with their electronics...everything has to be ideal to work right.



2006 F350 Lariat
EL CAT1 coolant and coolant filter.
95k miles. Oil cooler changed at 93k.
Oversized turbo oil drain tube.
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post #8 of 10 Old 06-23-2013, 09:45 PM Thread Starter
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Ya I think a major factor is I drive less then 9 miles to work round trip and that after I added a 3 mile detour to let the truck get to operating temp.

1. start truck up and let it arm up 4-6 min
2. at about 120-130 ect/eot I'll take off nice and slow never over like 15-1800 rpms then at about 180 degrees i'll give it gas and go literally like 1.6 miles to front gate of base... Should I invest in a battery tender? any reccomendations?

I really hate thinking this but I dont work my truck and thinking maybe I should trade it in am i crazy???

-2004 F350 CCLB 4x4: Sinister Race solutions kit, CAT ELC Edge CS, SCT SF3, PHP Ficm programmer, Procomp, Rough country, and Nitto goodies.
-2004 excursion, banks exhaust, 03 turbo, afe intake
-2006 f350 king ranch, 10 in fabtech, 40in tires, sct tunes,

currently-1999 F250 SBRB 4X4 First 7.3 and feels good to be back in a diesel....

Interested in learning something new?

http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/pol...verse-day.html


Justin,
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post #9 of 10 Old 06-23-2013, 10:01 PM
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I don't think you need a tender. The alternator should be able to keep up.



2006 F350 Lariat
EL CAT1 coolant and coolant filter.
95k miles. Oil cooler changed at 93k.
Oversized turbo oil drain tube.
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post #10 of 10 Old 06-23-2013, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
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ok, thanks I do drive longer on weekends for groceries and fun.


thanks for input and help everyone.

-2004 F350 CCLB 4x4: Sinister Race solutions kit, CAT ELC Edge CS, SCT SF3, PHP Ficm programmer, Procomp, Rough country, and Nitto goodies.
-2004 excursion, banks exhaust, 03 turbo, afe intake
-2006 f350 king ranch, 10 in fabtech, 40in tires, sct tunes,

currently-1999 F250 SBRB 4X4 First 7.3 and feels good to be back in a diesel....

Interested in learning something new?

http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/pol...verse-day.html


Justin,
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