7.3 no start! - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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  #1  
Old 06-10-2013, 02:58 PM
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7.3 no start!

2001 F-250 7.3L Diesel Platinum Edition.
Driving down road just fine, engine shut off. Cranks, no start.
Code reader reveals code - Cam position sensor error.
Replaced CPS, still no start.
No smoke, Full fuel, Full oil, Full batteries. Cranks, no start.
Tach not moving (maybe 50-100rpm).
Need some help!
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  #2  
Old 06-10-2013, 04:04 PM
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If you see Tach movement the CPS is working (you have no Trans Temp Gauge in the cluster - right?)

Here's the No Start check list;

WTS Light? - do you get it when you first roll-on the key? (shows the computer is running)

Do you see cranking rpm on the Tach? Do you have a spare CPS to try?

Is there fuel in the fuel bowl now? Does it refill after cranking? (open the drain level to check)

Can you hear/feel the pump running (below the dr seat, against the framerail)

Could the fuel gauge be giving a bad reading? (Below 1/4 tank?)

Is your truck "chipped"? If so, remove it as a Test.
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Old 06-11-2013, 04:56 PM
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Tach MAYBE moves to 50rpm... Cranking speed is good/fast.
Wait to start light comes on, turns off after 10 secs or so, as usual.
BRAND new CPS.
Fuel in bowl.
CAN hear/feel fuel pump running.
Added 5gal fuel, just in case gauge not working...
Truck WAS chipped when incident happened (super chips programmer), but I reverted back to stock and cleared DTC's already.

Still no start. No smoke. Good oil, fuel, electric, cranking speed....
Whats next?
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  #4  
Old 06-12-2013, 05:47 AM
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A Better code reader maybe?

What are you using? To retrieve codes from our trucks, which are Not, strictly OBD-II, you need a professional scanner. Otherwise, because of its limited Library, a generic reader can come back with "No Codes Found" when there are many DCTs to point you in the right direction...

You can unplug the ICP sensor, as a Test, so the PCM sets a default value for the IPR to run on.

Did you check the plug and sheet metal nut going to the IPR? That nut can vibrate off and allow the solenoid going over the valve to slide around. The wires going to the IPR can get brittle, crack, and short together. Make sure the plug & wires look in good shape.
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Old 06-12-2013, 05:17 PM
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Brother brought Ford diagnostic tool over. Buzz test ok. Everything looked good except the injection pressure, hence the IPR replacement... Still no fire.
Haven't had him back over to retest yet.

Replaced IPR.
Replaced CPS.
Tried your Unplug test.

STILL NO FIRE! very frustrated! HELP!
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  #6  
Old 06-13-2013, 06:01 AM
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Find out what those, specific, codes were. There are common issues that might be associated with one we can point you towards.

Low Injection pressure usually means either the HPOP isn't producing the pressure it should OR that pressure is being "bleed-off" somewhere and it can't be kept up.

What was the pressure it made?
How long did it take to get there?
What oil are you using?
Have you checked the level in the HPOP reservoir?


What about the other stuff?
The scanner shows cranking rpm?
Make sure your making good Fuel & Engine oil pressure with a manual gauge.

There's a Start!
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Old 06-15-2013, 08:59 AM
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NO codes.
Mechanical gauge reveals 50-100 psi injector pressure. (about 15-20 secs cranking)
Replaced Injector Pressure Regulator to no avail.
What's next move, replace the $800 High Pressure Oil Pump and pray???
Or are there any other sensors/etc that would be holding back the pressure??

Oil is normal Ford Motorcraft stuff.
Assuming reservoir is full, due to when i popped out the IPR, it drained quite a bit of oil into motor valley (oops).

Don't have access to the Ford Diagnostic tool again until probably tuesday or later.

What's common census say next move is?
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Old 06-15-2013, 11:23 AM
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Did you refill the HPOP? If not remove the check plug in the top on the right hand side. If there is no oil in there refill it and try to start it again.

Jim
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Old 06-15-2013, 11:28 AM
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It refilled itself from cranking 20 secs or so. Currently showing 50-100 psi while cranking.
Next.
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  #10  
Old 06-15-2013, 03:07 PM
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WAY TOO LOW

Next would be to confirm you have good engine oil pressure (that's what's supplying the HPOP) check the res, and finally before you call the HPOP bad you could confirm it's not able to make pressure at the pump itself (next to the IPR are the two Output hoses).

Then, pull the HPOP and confirm the gear drive is good and THEN go buy one!
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